MaderDesign 3 Posted May 9, 2010 So I've been approached to design and make a sign for a hair salon. I have the design finished and now sourcing the material. They have mentioned they would like it to be digitally printed and laminated, so if they would ever want to change it, it would be easier. So my question is....what material to use. I have 3M Controltac IJ380CV and 3M overlam but wasn't sure if this would hold up for say 5 years. Also i'm needing direction on what to use for the backing of the sign. It needs to be be able to be routered to shape. It will be front and back. Should I go with 8' 4x4" treated wood for the post? Or go with a composite material like PVC? The sign will be mounted to the posts so I was thinking wood would be good so that we could bolt the sign to the posts. I'm looking for all recommendations that will result in a clean professional look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaderDesign 3 Posted May 10, 2010 25 views and not a soul to help? Signs101 it is lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prestonservco 26 Posted May 10, 2010 They call it a post and panel sign. I think price will dictate some of your answers. You can purchase post and panel kits made from PVC. Wensco sell them, and Sign-Mart.com sells them. I think the PVC can be ordered in different colors, so you can stick with the black. If you go with treated lumber - are you planning on painting it? The backing? Can't help ya there Mader. Go with the longest lasting materials your client can afford. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truckntran 0 Posted May 10, 2010 I'd be considering dibond sign faces.... and a post kit with vinyl covered posts....Wood doesn't hold up as well as you might want anymore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaderDesign 3 Posted May 10, 2010 I'll have to check those out preston, I was going to go with treated lumber and paint it if I did go with wood. But the PVC sign kit sounds a bit better of an idea. Thanks, i'll look into this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prestonservco 26 Posted May 10, 2010 Here's the link for wensco. I'll look around for others. http://www.wensco.com/cb-Products/PostAndPanelSigns.aspx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prestonservco 26 Posted May 10, 2010 Here's another http://www.sesignsupply.com/vinyl%20post%20and%20panel%20kits.asp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prestonservco 26 Posted May 10, 2010 Here's the one I was trying to think of. http://www.signsplusbanners.com/sign-frames-blanks-stakes-post-panel-systems.php Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BannerJohn 1,324 Posted May 10, 2010 I've always been told you shouldn't paint treated lumber because of the chemicals in it. My neighbor has to re-paint her fencve of treated lumber every year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaderDesign 3 Posted May 10, 2010 hmm, thanks for the input Banner. I wondered that myself, i figured the paint would just fade super quick. That's why i was thinking PVC might be the best way to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deth502 39 Posted May 10, 2010 not knowing much afa the sigh aspect of it, but working in construction for several years, heres my .02 treated, yes, you are supposed to let it "bleed out" for a year before you paint it. and even then, it will need to be repainted often. no way around it. once you paint wood or block for the first time, youll be painting them forever. one reason im all for the raw lumber or block look, very low maintenance. its not the prettiest, but it will always look as good as it does now. pvc, other than drain pipes, ive never liked it as a building material. ive seen to many pvc fence posts ruined because they were lightly tapped when it was cold, or after they became brittle with age and uv deterioration. not to mention pvc fence posts and vinyl siding that had bee ruined by weed eaters from cutting grass along them. im sure i didnt help much, just trying to help you make a decision with a few pros and cons of each matl ive found over the years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bayshorecreations 30 Posted May 10, 2010 Try here for the sign blank http://www.bettersigns.com/www/html/stockshapes.asp I would use PVC post with pressure treated wood post inside of it for this application. I would personally cut the letters with a cast vinyl instead of print but thats just my .02 Here is another place that sells PVC blanks. Just do a google search for "pvc monument sign blanks" and you will come up with a bunch of websites. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted May 10, 2010 Try here for the sign blank http://www.bettersigns.com/www/html/stockshapes.asp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MaderDesign 3 Posted May 11, 2010 Wow thats a great site. Gonna double check with her and go ahead and order. Will these work with the post and panel kit posts? I like the idea how they just slide in. Wasn't sure if i could just buy the posts and piece this together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mabscotthandyman 1,410 Posted May 12, 2010 If you have access to a break you can use treated lumber and cover with 032 alum. in your choice of colors makes a nice job dibond can be shaped very well and is strong on a short span below is a couple that i did that way Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alien 11 Posted May 12, 2010 If you have access to a break you can use treated lumber and cover with 032 alum. in your choice of colors makes a nice job dibond can be shaped very well and is strong on a short span below is a couple that i did that way Dan Siding and Gutter people around here told me not to put pressure treated wood on my house eves before wrapping them with aluminum. The chemicals in the treated wood attacks the metal and it will fail in short order. My O2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mabscotthandyman 1,410 Posted May 12, 2010 Have done it for years no problems , I prime my treated with a good grade primer before painting ,or covering there are some at least 10 years old no problems Dan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites