Dakotagrafx 7,298 Posted February 10, 2010 ran across this oldie but goodie the new people might not have seen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigGreen 5 Posted February 10, 2010 that's great know i need to see how to build the screen and drier and i will be in screen printing i new there had to be a low budget sceen printing set up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzytop 1 Posted February 11, 2010 NICE... been looking for this video, I knew i had seen it here before but could not find it... Thanks for reposting this. Off to screen print i go.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sarconastic 29 Posted February 11, 2010 I just got done with my press, I think I might try this before i do an emulsion version. I just have to wait for payday for the funds to buy my inks and other supplies. The only thing that worries me wit this is the possibility of ruining your screens with the adhesive from the vinyl. Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted February 11, 2010 I just got done with my press, I think I might try this before i do an emulsion version. I just have to wait for payday for the funds to buy my inks and other supplies. The only thing that worries me wit this is the possibility of ruining your screens with the adhesive from the vinyl. Kevin Not a chance. Screens are made from monofilament (fishing line, essentially), the adhesive from vinyl is the least you are going to throw at it. Dehazers, which are the worst, are pretty much just straight lye, and screens can take many dehazings before getting weak. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bizzytop 1 Posted February 12, 2010 going to try it this weekend, got some ink, just do not have the flash dryer, but i read somewhere that you can use a heat gun as well, not sure how that would work but will try that or my heat press. Will see how it goes. I don't have the emulsion yet but got the screens and press. This would be a cheap way to give it a try i guess. Have to work on getting a flash dryer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uscutterboy 0 Posted February 12, 2010 The heat gun can work in my experience. But if not completley dry, it will come off in the washer (onto your other clothes ). I did this method for a long time. We used the oven too We did this method for transfers too, transfers that you transfer to fabric with a heat press Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wwpro 1 Posted February 12, 2010 If you use plastisol inks you should cure with your heatpress if you don't have a flash dryer, a heat gun will dry inconsistently. If you use waterbased inks they'll air dry, and you can use the heatpress to set the ink. I know nothing about this but from reading this is what I've gathered. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
uscutterboy 0 Posted February 12, 2010 plastisol can remelt with heat ( that is how hot, cold peel plastisol transfers work ) Water based is permanent, softer feel, more transparent ( white ) dries using water evaporation, so when the water evaporates in the ink, it is set. Both are great fun. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sarconastic 29 Posted February 15, 2010 I have read in several threads on several boards that you can cure plastisol with your heatpress, but no one gives any specs, to get started. anyone have time temp setting that have worked for them? Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DennyHaze 0 Posted February 15, 2010 I have read in several threads on several boards that you can cure plastisol with your heatpress, but no one gives any specs, to get started. anyone have time temp setting that have worked for them? Kevin I would like to know the temp setting also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted February 16, 2010 Plastisols cure at ~330F, so I'd go from there up. Most plastisol transfers are between 345F and 375F, depending on the dwell time and the type of transfer, so that's a pretty good basis. It's really just a trade-off between higher temp vs longer dwell time. If your garment can handle it, go 375 for less time. If not, go lower temp at a longer dwell time. Obviously, the ink has to reach ~330F all the way through. Do wash tests. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hockeygirl 30 Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks so much for posting this! We have 2 screenprinters - one of them is a little portable (craft-rated) one and we can carry it with us to trade shows along with our vinyl cutter and heat press now to do custom shirts! And we figure we can use vinyl for the non-complex designs, we can pump out up to 100 shirts per hour on the big one... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,298 Posted February 17, 2010 Actually it is a repost from another member of the board Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hamstar 0 Posted May 3, 2010 Excellent! Thank you for sharing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RDR Grafix 3 Posted May 5, 2010 I do this at my retail store and on the road. Only thing you have to watch is once you get into real real detailed stuff the vinyl will peel off and youll have to use emulsion. Besides that it works great and you dont have to have an exposure box taking up space. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CherokeeDesign 0 Posted May 6, 2010 I have read in several threads on several boards that you can cure plastisol with your heatpress, but no one gives any specs, to get started. anyone have time temp setting that have worked for them? Kevin I would say to go by the ink manufacturer's directions as far as temperature (I think the inks I have say they cure at 325*F) and time (again I think mine say 20 seconds). There are 2 ways I have read to do it: 1. put the printed shirt up on your press, and bring the platen down to 1/2" or so from the shirt, and hold it in place for the 20-30 seconds (not touching the ink or shirt). I have a couple small wood blocks that are about 1/2" high, and I just bring the heat platen down so they touch, that way it's the same every time. 2. use a heat gun to flash dry the ink, then actually bring the platen down, and close the press like you would in heat transfer. You can use either the teflon sheet, or I have tried using a piece of the backing paper from regular sign vinyl. That makes it *really* smooth, more so than I like, but it's another method you can experiment with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted May 6, 2010 I have read in several threads on several boards that you can cure plastisol with your heatpress, but no one gives any specs, to get started. anyone have time temp setting that have worked for them? Kevin 2. use a heat gun to flash dry the ink, then actually bring the platen down, and close the press like you would in heat transfer. You can use either the teflon sheet, or I have tried using a piece of the backing paper from regular sign vinyl. That makes it *really* smooth, more so than I like, but it's another method you can experiment with. If you use a piece of parchment paper, it won't make the ink as shiny. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zx360 0 Posted May 12, 2010 who here actually screen prints? i have someone who wants some t-shirts and hoodies but i dont know if anyone here actually does that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted May 12, 2010 I screenprint, what is your design like and what quantities? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RDR Grafix 3 Posted May 12, 2010 I screenprint from one shirt on up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
