darkdan

How-To Video DRY Application with no air bubbles.

Recommended Posts

Here's a video of side hinge, on glass, in the cold (according to www.accuweather.com it's 28 degrees when I made the video).

Practice, practice, practice.  That's the only way you'll get better.

Cliff notes of the video:

1.) Side hinge

2.) There are times when you can't do things wet or just doing them wet would give you a headache.  Mainly compound curves, recesses, reflective vinyl (trapped water can cause delamination), vehicle wraps, cold temps

3.) Practice isn't expensive.  Use some scrap!  For the cost of one bottle of a popular application solution, you can buy a whole 15"x10 yard roll of medium grade vinyl!

4.) It's all about squeegeeing technique.  It's a swipe or "slicing" motion.  Easy and smooth and you won't trap air.

5.) It's fast and effective.  No cleaning up application solution.

6.) No worries about contaminating the adhesive with improper solutions (some degreasers, perfumes, dyes can hurt the PSA) and no worries about pH problems.

7.) Being able to use both dry and wet application makes an installer more versatile.

Sorry the video cut out.  I kept talking for about another minute.  My camera has a 3 min limitation on video and I didn't hear the beep.  You didn't miss much, just me peeling off the application tape.  Came off in 3 pieces (it was high tack paper after all).  Then I went to clean up and take that vinyl off the glass, it was stuck down so well it wouldn't come off!  Since it was cold it was postage stamping (tearing off in small pieces).  I had to get out the scraper.

Enjoy the video!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I'm in the shop and the heat was off, but the door had been opened recently.  Since you asked, I went out and threw on the old raytech IR thermometer.  Had to use the probe.  The glass is about 30.2 degrees.  The wall (inside wall) behind it is about 34~40 degrees depending on where I pointed the aiming lazer.  I guess the studs are colder than the insulated part.

I just mentioned the temperature so people know it's a low temp application and not the middle of summer.

But you can see how stiff that cast + conform paper is.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't go so far to say it takes lots of practice.  Medium sized pieces like that will most likely be mastered rather quickly.  I'd say by the time that proverbial 15"x10 yard roll is gone - top, side, and center hinging could be done with very high confidence with 15" material.  That will translate well to 24" material and larger and larger once the basic skill set is in place.

Here's how to fix mistakes during application:

That doesn't work all of the time.  I'd say you're good up until the substrate temperature hits 75F or 80F depending on humidity.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok,am I understanding that the slapping thing doesn't work well when it is warmer?

Correct, and not on all substrates.  It depends on the initial bonding strength of the adhesive (and the strength of the paper!).

This is good & this is FUNNY .  :rolleyes:  dan... it is either " practice , practice , practice " OR " I wouldn't go so far to say it takes lots of practice "  . Make up your mind . I wish you would have done decals instead of a sheet of vinyl . I have never tried or wanted to install a sheet . Decals & a thermometer would have proven your point more .  5 asks about the temp & I wonder if it was cold , why your breath isnt fogging .

disagreeing is FUN !!! mayby we can get a section " agreeing that we disagree " LOL

It does take practice, but it shouldn't take years of practice.

Maybe I'll throw up some decals tomorrow, I just didn't want to take the time to cut them.

I actually planned ahead and took pics of my IR thermometer because I figured someone would want them.  The top temp is the non-contact (reading the wall) and the bottom temp is from the probe that is touching the glass.

Cold or not, that would still be a bithc to install without bubbles.

It's not bad after you get the hang of it.  IMO, it would be harder to install wet because you'd have to wait, then risk the paper lifting the vinyl off the glass when you go to peel it.  Not to mention you have to worry about leaving behind water that might freeze!

post-1954-12986528011906_thumb.jpg

post-1954-1298652803088_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decal app in the cold, fixing mistakes:

Also, what to do when your high tack application paper's adhesion to the decal is greater than your decal's adhesion to the substrate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Addressing a few questions:

1.) Yes, you can do dry applications at all temperatures.  I just stressed the cold weather aspect because someone here was having trouble with wet applications at near freezing temps.  Most vinyl manufacturers don't recommend wet application below about 60 degrees and don't recommend any application near freezing.

2.) There are sometimes that popping the film up won't work.  Plexiglass comes to mind.  Once vinyl hits plexiglass it's stuck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's the next video.  It's a side hinge "one swipe" technique.  The other videos showed medium sized applications, and this technique is best for small decals.  I did this outside in the cold (windchill is about 15F and air temp is about 35F).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This video demonstrates a dry application using the center hinge method.  Good for both rectangular and square decals in the medium to large sizes.

Normally the tape doesn't start ripping the pre-mask, but I used some cheap stuff I had laying around that I hate instead of my normal R-Tape 4075.

A moderator or admin might want to merge this thread with my other video thread.  Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.