PixelPusher

Members
  • Content Count

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by PixelPusher

  1. PixelPusher

    Heres another sign

    Good job! One thing to look at in your designs (not knocking your efforts, but just offering you a technique to think about for future) to blast out information effectively is using a solid rectangle of color around important details (like phone numbers, addresses, emails etc) and then reverse weed out the letters to let the substrate backing come through. Like this (taking your design). I use this type of design technique often.
  2. PixelPusher

    Application Tape Roller Question?

    Ask yourself how much your time and effort are worth? How much monetary value is your vinyl worth? How much time does it take to cut and weed your vinyl creations? Then do some inventory on your transfer tape usage and note how much you waste doing it manually (taking into account the misapplied sessions, squeegee time to remove air bubbles and even bubble popping and air releasing effort). Then you "should" come to realize the answer to your question. You may be able to find a more inexpensive brand of tape applicator but check the reviews from users. They're worth more than anything. These tape applicators are perceived as an expensive initial investment but your return on this investment pays for itself over and over again for the whole time you're in business. Getting perfect tape application manually is doable, but it takes way more time to do it in several steps (and the chance of screwing up a job increases at each step in the progression). This product frees you to do more designing, more cutting, more selling rather than repeating a job because of an easy to make mistake (comes out of your profits). To me, the benefit of using this product is obvious. Save your pennies if you must (take back some bottles if you have to) but don't skimp out on buying one of these tape applicators. It's like cheaping out buying inexpensive toilet paper...you'll pay for it in the end!
  3. PixelPusher

    Ioline cutters

    Second last thing to note on this whole experience is that the serial cable I needed was a Straight Through kind (male to female in my case because of the gender changer). I had to go back to the store AGAIN because I initially bought a Null Modem cable (which DOES NOT WORK!) I should have known better because of the FTDI chipset and drivers required to get Windows to recognize the cutter (and since the Copam used a straight through cable too) but I over thought things and I was wrong. So ya, I wasted my whole morning driving around for the stupid cable. But in the end it all works now. Long story short, buy an Ioline cutter if you can get one (even old ones with scary looking ports) because they're high quality cutters and will last a LONG time in heavy use.
  4. PixelPusher

    Ioline cutters

    WOOOOT! Success! I got the beast to connect to my Windows 7 64bit laptop! OK, so I got crafty and connected the gender changed serial port adapter directly to my Keyspan USB-Serial adapter I have for the Copam (I had to remove the serial port cable screw fasteners on the Keyspan though temporarily) and since I already had the latest FTDI drivers on the laptop for the Copam, it assigned a COM port right away. I put in my SignGo 1.20 dongle into one of my laptop USB ports and the USB cable from the Keyspan adapter and sent some designs over to the cutter. Went flawlessly! On fast mode, it's VERY FAST. I dialed it down to mid range speed and it was still very doable. Slow speed would be perfect for intricate cuts. So tomorrow I will go buy a longer RS232 serial cable (Male to Female though since I have the female gender adapter attached to the DB-25 port) and I'll be set! So ya, for $150 CAD ($115 USD), this is the deal of the decade for me! I even did some test fake contour cuts using SignGo's Cut Around (contour cut) and I could use the on-screen arrows to move the cutter carriage no problem. YES! Another day here and I will do some plots and test the contour feature using paper and a pen just to practice. So if anyone was to come across an Ioline cutter, I'd say go for it without hesitation! I learned how to read the serial number on the back of the unit and it turns out this cutter is from 2001. So it's 15 years old and still keeps on going! Thanks to FTDI's drivers, it will work on Linux, Mac and up to and including Windows 10 32 or 64 bit. So it's a cutter that keeps on ticking and works with all the major cutting software packages with ease. How can you beat that?
  5. PixelPusher

    Transfer Carrier Sheet???

    You can use old dinner table placemats too. Even some thin plastic roll up cutting boards (camping style) will work. It should be fairly rigid but not too rigid. The spray glue is the most important part. Low tack is best. Here are a whole bunch from Aliexpress http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20160330185520&SearchText=cutting+mat+plotter Shipping cost and wait times are the killer part (14-25 days wait).
  6. PixelPusher

    Ioline cutters

    Thanks for the reply Wildgoose, I'll fill you in on my experience as I get more accustomed to things and actually get it working as I did end up buying the cutter. I got the beast home and put things together today (had to take the stand apart and separate the cutter to get it in the car with the seats down). It's REALLY BIG from endcap to endcap, like 62.25" long (over 5ft anyhow). It's really thin though at 6 3/4" wide. I was concerned at first when seeing the man demo the cutter as it wouldn't turn on properly nor have the carriage track back to it's origin point when in the middle of the track. Turns out there was a problem with the power connector on the back of the unit, but the guy didn't bother to take off the endcap to see why the power socket was loose. There was no screw in the holding mechanism. Putting in a screw to secure it and putting the endcap back on took 3 minutes. Cutter seems to work fine! Moves around fine, does three different types of test cuts depending on how long you press the Test Cut button (square and circle type, more intricate longer type and a really intricate Ioline logo type). The big Ioline logo takes a certain button combination to perform. The thing is it is a pretty old unit and only has two types of parallel port connections unfortunately. There is a serial gender changer on the DB-25 Parallel Printer type port and a separate IEEE 1284 parallel printer type port (the kind with little metal hook arm locks that flip out of the way). The guy didn't have any success getting the DB-25 and serial gender changer to work but I don't think he knew what he was doing because he never installed the FTDI drivers to get the computer to recognize the cutter, nor did he have a Keyspan adapter to do the important work converting the now gender changed serial to USB adapter working. He simply had a very old Windows XP box running the Parallel Printer type cable from the cutter to the back of the old computer. No drivers are needed for that kind of setup to work apparently. So I'm not exactly sure if I'm going to be able to get this to work with USB on Windows 7 64 bit or not. Seems the converters I have seen so far don't work on 64 bit but only 32 bit. So I have to figure out how I'm going to attack this for the least amount of money. I might end up buying a parallel card for the computer but I think I'm going to try the RS232 serial cable first through the gender changer to my Keyspan adapter and then the FTDI drivers from the Copam should work since the two cutters share the exact same drivers ironically. Anyhow, I have put in a felt pen in the carriage and some paper and ran the three test plots and they all work fine. So if I can get the computer to recognize the cutter, then I can start to do some real evaluation. So far, the unit is VERY SOLIDLY BUILT. It's quite light actually considering how big it is. My 24" Copam (including the stand) is just as heavy as the entire Ioline cutter including it's stand. The stand on the Ioline is solidly built and the most heavy part of the whole setup. The stand doesn't have caster rollers on the bottom but a Teflon plastic like circle type foot. It doesn't move as easily obviously with that setup. I might eventually buy four locking rollers to move it around more easily. Should fit in the screw holes no problem. So far I am quite impressed with the cutter. It's so simple to operate it's quite amazing actually. I haven't setup the software on the computer yet however but I will do that as soon as I can figure out how I'm going to connect it. Apparently you can cut from Coreldraw directly using PLT export file type. But there is a bug with any version of Coreldraw later than version 12 in that the PLT files are all jagged even if you adjust Coreldraw's curve resolution to 0.001" or even smaller. You can not set a resolution of 0 now either in Coreldraw X7. Anyhow Corel seems to refuse to fix this bug and has been an issue since version 12. The good news is that using AI or EPS file exports have MUCH better quality in curved text and all objects. So that's not the cutter's fault but Corel's fault. It's cool that the cutter has this capability however. It is amazingly quiet when plotting. It does have a vacuum hold down capability to aid in tracking so that's the loudest part and it's not very loud at all. It's half (or less) as loud as my Copam CP 2500. The Copam has steppers and is a bit obnoxious. This thing I didn't even think it was on at first and could barely hear the carriage tracking back to its origin point. It's impressive in that capacity. I have attached two images of the connectors on this old cutter. Hopefully I can get it to work with Windows 7 64-bit. Any insight on these types of connectors would be appreciated. So ya, that's enough rambling for now. I'll write more when I get some setup action going. More to follow...
  7. PixelPusher

    Ioline cutters

    Sorry to drum up a 3 year old thread, but I'm supposed to be buying one at 6pm today so I'll give you a real user opinion if/when I get it home and working. This reads as a bit of an advertisement but it's not meant to be. It's just what I've found out in a day's research... The unit I'm getting is a used cutter but I think the seller is vastly underselling it's value (to my gain). That is, unless it doesn't work or something is faulty which I will soon find out - he says it's working fine and properly though. I'm getting it for $150 CAD (including stand with wide media rollers) and it's the 49" cuttable width unit called SmarTrac I/S130 (52" wide overall). It works with Signblazer Elements (currently free), FlexiSign Pro 8.6+, SignGo Pro 1.20, SignTools 4, CoCut 2015, SignLab 9.1 and many others. It doesn't have a specific driver for SCALP 4 but may be able to be used with a generic HPGL driver. I'll experiment eventually and find out...it can apparently be used with any generic HPGL driver however in case the software you wish to use doesn't have a specific driver. They are servo based units and very quiet and made in the state of Washington, USA. LOTS of cutting force (500g) and can cut paper through to thick sandblast mask or reflective material and even some textile material. The unit can pounce or repeat cut too. It uses a non standard blade and knife holder though but there are plenty of sellers on eBay and Aliexpress for these parts. Cost of these blades and holders isn't that bad but they are more expensive than Roland blades and holders. The interesting carriage arm can use normal pens and felts without using an adapter for plotting. The cutters are dead simple to operate...just dials and buttons. The learning curve is extremely short so anyone can operate them very quickly. Their support on their website is incredible even offering HPGL tutorials and a FULL Service Manual right down to electrical schematics and software development help. The amount of information they have put up there for users/support is fantastic! They offer a small freebie cutting software called 101 Software which will enable users to cut right away but using SignBlazer Elements is obviously a preferred software route since it's now free and much more capable. The ability to tweak and customize the cutter is pretty incredible actually using their free Control Centre software too. The cutter can cut a full 49" width (the cutter can actually take 52" media) or down to 3" in size. It has four pinch rollers actuated by a single rear pull down handle to lock them all in one go. In my research, the USB-Serial drivers are FTDI (Future Technology Devices International) (VCP - Virtual Com Port) chipset based so there is support for up to Windows 10 32/64bit with no end in sight. In fact, I don't even have to uninstall my old cutter because it uses the exact same FTDI drivers. Sweet! Couple this with a Keyspan adapter I already have and I should be in business. It takes an RS-232C Serial cable to connect to the computer or an LPT port so unless my cutter comes with a cable, I'll have to buy another one since my current cutter uses a straight through serial cable. Since I don't have any old equipment nor LPT ports, I am going serial to USB. Later models have real USB ports too. I think the one I'm getting is too old though but I won't know until tonight. Anyhow, the Ioline brand is quite large in the textile industry and they have a variety of machines that are made for cutting fabric. Ya, that's about all I can think of right now off the top of my head. I'm pretty excited to get this beast. I hope it works well. If it does then I can think about selling my other 24" Copam cutter (or maybe I'll keep it, we'll see...)
  8. PixelPusher

    Solvent or Latex Printer ?

    This is Roland's propaganda. They compare their Solvent technology to HP Latex technology. Interesting anyhow... https://www.rolanddga.com/products/printers/latex-printer-vs-ecosolvent
  9. PixelPusher

    Make The Cut! …..?

    Make the Cut is really easy to use, like dead simple if your cutter is supported (it seems the MH series is supported). They have an active forum too for support from members. The program has not been updated in a long time unfortunately and 4.6.2 is the latest version (since March 11, 2015). I like the GUI interface actually. It's not too advanced however compared to other software packages I've used for designing but for basic stuff, and certainly cutting, it's great. It's a very inexpensive program so for the $57.95 USD price they're charging I'd say it's a worthy buy. Signblazer is ugly but it can do a lot more and it's free! Good training wheels anyhow. I can't get Make the Cut to work properly with my USCutter Copam 2500 (it will cut or draw but never end and power down) so you have to shut it off afterwards. It's using a different driver since the author doesn't release drivers very often anymore. Copam users have been waiting years for proper drivers. Make the Cut works with SVG file format which is also used in Sure Cuts a Lot 3 or 4 (regular or pro versions). Inkscape and Coreldraw can use this file format too of course for designing. Inkscape is free (http://www.inkscape.org) and you can design in that software and then copy/paste/import into Make the Cut to actually cut...it's a pretty good work flow.
  10. PixelPusher

    hi from Ontario Canada

    Roland uses CutStudio as cutting software bridging the cutter to a design program (typically Coreldraw or Adobe Illustrator). That's how I've used all Rolands I've come across. Though I'm sure you can use other software, it starts with their own drivers and then CutStudio. Go here to inquire https://www.rolanddga.com/products/software/roland-cutstudio-software and https://www.rolanddgastore.com/product.aspx?zpid=1508 I did find this link however that may be of use to you: http://download.rolanddg.jp/en/cutting.html#cx1224 YouTube has videos on how to use CutStudio and possibly the CX-24. Personally, I'd call Roland and ask for some help, they will guide you through the process. The software is not free however $69 USD. PS, http://www.SignSupplyCanada.com is out of Ontario too (I'm Canadian too fyi just a few provinces West from you though) and is a pretty decent place for sign stuff. I got my SignGo Pro software from them a few years ago for $175. It's gone way up in price now though...all sign software has unfortunately.
  11. PixelPusher

    copam 4050 windows 8???

    Copam's still have drivers up to and including Windows 10 both in 32bit or 64bit, you just need to know where to get them: http://www.ftdichip.com/FTDrivers.htm And specifically here: http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm I believe you'll be using the Virtual Com Port drivers (they include both in their packages however). It's confusing...look in the COMMENTS section and click on the link (words) saying SETUP EXECUTABLE to download them. Otherwise you have to unpack the drivers and install them yourself and you need some computer savvy skills to do it. The setup executable unpacks the drivers and installs them in one go. This is an excerpt from their ReadMe.doc file FTDI’s CDM drivers provide both D2XX and VCP functionality through a single driver package on PCs running the following Windows operating systems: Windows 10 Windows 10 x64 Windows 8.1 Windows 8.1 x64 Windows Server 2012 Windows 8 Windows 8 x64 Windows Server 2008 R2 Windows 7 Windows 7 x64 Windows Server 2008 Windows Server 2008 x64 Windows Vista Windows Vista x64 Windows Server 2003 Windows Server 2003 x64 Windows XP Windows XP x64 You can then continue to follow along with USCutter's installation instructions after you download and install the most recent drivers I list above to get SignBlazer to work with the Copam. I have a CP-2500 and have it working fine (I have it working with a Keyspan USB to serial adapter AND normal USB). I have tested it to work with Signblazer Elements, SignGo 1.20, SignTools 4, SignCut 1.96, Sure Cuts a Lot Pro 4 and FlexiSign Pro 8.6v2. One thing to watch out for is your COM ports may get used up quite quickly messing around with software installations. There are ways to remove the COM ports on Windows 7 but it's not exactly straight forward or easy. I don't know how to do this on Windows 8 because I don't use it. I use Windows 7 64-bit. One thing to note is if you're using a Keyspan USB to serial adapter, the serial cable has to be a straight through cable with Female/Female ends and NOT a null modem cable to work with the Copams. Trust me, I had to find this out the hard way with two trips to the computer store, hours wasted and lots of frustration later...
  12. A heads up Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016: http://www.coreldraw.com/ca/product/graphic-design-software/?topNav=ca Email says anyone from version 1.0 upwards can upgrade to X8, not just X5, X6,X7 folks! "As a loyal owner and user of any previous version of CorelDRAW Graphics Suite, you'll be glad to know that we have reopened the upgrade path to users of all versions so you can now upgrade to X8 from any version — even 1.0."
  13. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    I think the upgrade for people is a good deal too from earlier versions. One thing I DO NOT think is a good deal is the trial period has been almost halved to 14 days from 30 days. With all the negative reviews I'm starting to read on this release, I don't think I'm going to upgrade from X7 for quite a while, if ever. BUT, if I had a version from 1-X4 then yes, I'd move up to X8 right away. I like the fact that it appears the upgrade deal is not time limited (seems permanent, you don't have to buy it by a certain date).
  14. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    Wow, thanks for that info! I had not even begun to contemplate that...I learned something new today! Though I do have to admit, I don't really understand it all...
  15. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    Interesting...I wish I knew more about it to help you or why it occurs that way. I'd like to know myself. I honestly don't use SVG much because SignGo doesn't work with that format. SCALP or Make the Cut does I am familiar with though. One thing I never understood is the scaling issue with SVG (things seem to be about twice as small or bigger sometimes when importing into other programs and I haven't delved into that much yet). But that's another topic I'm sure has been answered on here before...so I'll go dig for the answer when I come across that behavior again. One thing I know from experience is that I have had a hard time adapting to Illustrator (CS6). I have tried several times to learn Illy but always come back to Coreldraw and all it's annoying idiosyncrasies. So I wish you success if you go that route. I'm too invested in Coreldraw now to really fully move over. Too many files to convert and too many macros I'd miss using.
  16. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    Is this not a combining/paths "change direction" issue? I have had this blackness happen before. One or more of the nodes in your object are in the wrong direction (I can't explain what that means...I don't know why it occurs to be honest or how to control it). BUT, with the shape tool (F10) you can click on a node and find the REVERSE DIRECTION (Reverses the positions of the starting and ending node) and then recombine the object to get the flower shape WITH the little circles showing up.
  17. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    Might be wise, after I sent you that link previously to the Coreldraw forums, I did some poking around. Read this thread: http://community.coreldraw.com/talk/coreldraw_graphics_suite_x8/f/832/t/52371 Not good reviews thus far and it's only been a few hours since official launch! LOL!
  18. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    Please read my post #7. For now it's digital download only, and it's not rental. You can buy the boxed version (contains the DVD) but it's not shipping until April 5th. On April 5th, Corel will start shipping the boxed version. So you get to use it now via digital but get the DVD in April. One thing to note is that you must have at least Windows 7 (32 or 64 bit) or higher. Coreldraw X7 or X8 won't work on XP...which makes me think their upgrade policy is a little flawed. I mean what's the point of trying to upgrade if you're still on XP as the main OS? You won't be able to run X7 or X8 and your upgrade path stops at X6. But at least you "could" get an upgrade to X8 if you wanted to install Windows 7 or higher. Since Windows 10 is free (but full of spyware), might be worth doing I suppose if you don't mind being tracked and spied on...I personally hate Win 8, 8.1 and especially 10 and I had to retroactively neuter Windows 7 to rid it of all the backported spyware.
  19. PixelPusher

    Coreldraw X8 is out today March 16/2016

    You can always go to the official forums (free) http://community.coreldraw.com/ and sign up. Post your question or PM someone FROM Corel named Gerard Metrailler (he works there and is very knowledgeable) Here is an old thread you can find his post on which you can click on when a member to post a question: http://community.coreldraw.com/talk/coreldraw_graphics_suite_x4/f/245/p/5133/26880#26880 Anyhow, in my email this morning from Corel and on their website now, you can upgrade from X3 to version X8 for $249 CAD that's like $199 USD. The boxed versions don't ship until April 5th/2016. For now you're getting a digital download but you can buy the boxed version now and download a digital copy right away and when the boxed version ships in April, you'll get that then.
  20. PixelPusher

    need to find this font

    Ding Ding Ding, we have a winner! (The kerning spacing between the letters has been manually adjusted in the attached photo.)
  21. When I was in IKEA sourcing out my media basket parts for another DIY I'm stumbling through, I saw they had stands all over the store with hanging meter stick rulers that are IKEA branded digitally printed on paper. Customers are free to use them to measure items in their showroom when cruising around their store. They're free for the taking - I asked. I wouldn't take a whole pile of them in one go or anything but two here and there are perfectly acceptable according to the sales rep I was talking to and he encouraged it. It dawned on me that I could use two of these freebies taped onto my vinyl cutter (one on the front of the cutter and one on the back - upside down so the numbers and measurements could be read easily while facing the front of the cutter, both properly measured and aligned of course) to assist in lining up vinyl on the cutter for consistent tracking. Simply align the front most part of the vinyl from the roll or scrap piece to the same ruler line on the back of the cutter's ruler line (both left edge and right edge) and you're more than likely going to be tracking straight. Do some feed tests to see just how accurate or far off your alignment is and adjust accordingly. If you wear these rulers out over time, just replace as needed. They're also handy to quickly see if a scrap piece of vinyl you're wishing to use will fit a design you plan to be cut before you go through the hassle of setting it up. Checking the net, people do make an adhesive tape or transparent film type ruler too though for a more permanent and professional look for your cutter. A Bing Images Search shows adhesive ruler tape (Safe for work). An example of this is also attached to this thread. I don't know exactly where to buy this stuff but with some more Google searching, I'm sure one could obtain it.
  22. Yes, there are lines on the front of my Copam CP-2500 too but it's not a ruler for measurement and the lines themselves are not as finely drawn as the marks on a ruler would be (more divisions). Also, on my cutter at least, there is no ruler on the backside and really, that's half the battle since aligning BOTH the front and the back to the same point on the ruler "should" allow for straight tracking. I think there should be two sets of alignment marks on the front of the cutter (one immediately after the cutting strip - so the substrate doesn't contact it directly and rub it off over time and the other further down on the front of the cutter as it is now on my device). And one set on the back (upside down so you can read it standing in front of the cutter). That gives you three points of alignment. If that doesn't help with tracking then I think the cutter has a bigger problem and most likely needs a service call.
  23. FYI, I wrote a tutorial on this. Easy 5 minute job. See here: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/44121-need-help-with-replacing-pinch-roller/?p=410811
  24. PixelPusher

    Epson Stylus Photo Compatible Printheads

    AliExpress may have something: http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20160223163327&SearchText=epson+stylus+photo+printhead Sign-In-China may also have something. http://www.sign-in-china.com/catalogs/70/printer_spare_parts/409_epson/all.html?gclid=CIKq4vqTj8sCFQiqaQodBIYLpA I've bought from both outlets and received quality, working products in decent shipping packages. Took 24 days to Canada though.
  25. PixelPusher

    Flexi driver for Copam CP2500 vs DGI OM60

    I've been doing some reading on these forums about reference to the Copam CP-2500 and Flexisign 8.6 or above and trying to figure out why the Copam CP-2500 Flexi driver does not seem to work properly (actually finish the job and not freeze up in a fully powered up state and say "CUTTING" on the cutter display LCD scren) where as the driver for the DGI OM60 (which is very identical to the Copam CP-2500 when looking at the driver in Notepad++) DOES finish the job properly and actually finishes the job and the cutter powers down as normal. I haven't been able to nail things down yet or fix it, but it would seem to me the macro that they've written for the driver has some incorrect HPGL commands (Hewlett Packard Graphics Language - the language cutters and plotters speak) for the CP-2500 and correct for the DGI OM60. I'm attempting to try and fix this...but I could use some help if anyone is interested and still uses a Copam! FYI, here is a quick tutorial on HPGL codes and what they mean: http://www.isoplotec.co.jp/HPGL/eHPGL.htm which may help us decode things. Anyhow, on Windows 7, if one looks in C:\Program Files (x86)\SAi\SAi Production Suite\OutputDrivers and then finds the files DGI.csm and USCutter.csm and opens both of them in Notepad++ or similar text editing software (Notepad ++ is free and awesome F.Y.I.) you'll find that the commands for the drivers are almost identical. You'll have to scroll to the proper sections however. Also, using Notepad++ allows one to open each driver in a tab and then if you flip between the tabs you can visually see the onscreen changes of text between the two drivers...like an old school animated drawing flip-book would. It becomes easy to notice pattern changes and visual differences. I suppose one could use a spreadsheet too and paste in the code for comparison. I'm not a big spreadsheet guy or I'd do that myself but I think I've captured and highlighted the changes accurately...have I not? I have copied and pasted the macro information below and highlighted the two names and code differences to help us "humans" with visual separation. Red is different code, green is the same code. As you can see the difference is MINIMAL but obviously important. Since we didn't write the drivers for Flexi, I don't know if we can fix this properly, but any guesses on what the different lines actually mean? I am thinking lines 5 and 6 deal with cutter width or dimensions. In line 6 there is an 1800 vs a 1280000 which is unusual. Line 7 is just a name variable. Line 4 happens to be the one that is the most different and the comments at the bottom of the DGI driver are just that, comments...no biggy. Anyhow, the answer to why one driver works with the Copam CP-2500 (the DGI OM-60 one works) and why the Copam CP-2500 driver itself doesn't completely work lies within these numbers...it's a bit of a riddle on how to fix it. [Copam CP-2500] 01:$9600,n,8,1,$ 02:$0,1,$ 03:$0,268698626,32,32776,0,$ 04:$3087073287,20,10,1024,$ 05:$24.0/600.0,$ 06:$24.0,1800.0,0,0,0,0,$ 07:$CP2500$ - //cutting 08:$pmcutter.dll$ 09:$1016.0,0,0,$ 10:$OH;$ 11:$$ 12:$.P 3:IN;AP3;$ 13:$SP;$ 14:$PA;PU0,0;PG%ld;$ 15:$30,,,1,80,VS%ld;$ 16:$00$ 17:$11,.25,4.0,AS%.2f;$ 18:$$ 19:$PR;$ 20:$PD%ld,%ld;$ 21:$PA;PU%ld,%ld;$ 22:$PU;$ 23:$PD;$ 24:$AR%ld,%ld,%.3f,1;$ 25:$AR%ld,%ld,%.3f,1;$ 26:$$ 27:$$ 28:$$ 29:$$ 30:$$ 31:$$ 32:$$ 33:$$ - //engraving - //printing - //custom head = {VS(0,speed,1,80,1,0,1,0,);} Cut Fast = (0,1,70) Cut Slow = (0,1,30) - //custom end - //macro Go to Origin = PU;PA0,0; Test Plot = IN;PA0,0;PD1016,0,1016,1016,0,1016,0,0;PU; - //comment [OM-60] 01:$9600,n,8,1,$ 02:$0,1,$ 03:$0,268698626,32,32776,0,$ 04:$167837723,20,10,1024,$ 05:$23.4252/600.0,$ 06:$23.4252,1280000,0,0,0,0,$ 07:$OM60$ - //cutting 08:$pmcutter.dll$ 09:$1016.0,0,0,$ 10:$OH;$ 11:$$ 12:$.P 3:IN;AP3;$ 13:$SP;$ 14:$PA;PU0,0;PG%ld;$ 15:$30,,,1,80,VS%ld;$ 16:$00$ 17:$11,.25,4.0,AS%.2f;$ 18:$$ 19:$PR;$ 20:$PD%ld,%ld;$ 21:$PA;PU%ld,%ld;$ 22:$PU;$ 23:$PD;$ 24:$AR%ld,%ld,%.3f,1;$ 25:$AR%ld,%ld,%.3f,1;$ 26:$$ 27:$$ 28:$$ 29:$$ 30:$$ 31:$$ 32:$$ 33:$$ - //engraving - //printing - //custom head = {VS(0,speed,1,80,1,0,1,0,);} Cut Fast = (0,1,70) Cut Slow = (0,1,30) - //custom end - //macro Go to Origin = PU;PA0,0; Test Plot = IN;PA0,0;PD1016,0,1016,1016,0,1016,0,0;PU; - //comment 0:OM-100 0:OM-130 0:OM-70 0:OM-80 0:OM-40