mac6986

That's a very valid point. I did leave that out in this example. I'll add it in above for the record. My particular situation, I live in a very urban area, 90% of jobs I travel to are within 15 minutes. Each shop owner needs to decide what type of travel expenses they need to cover. The way I do business, my travel expenses are accounted for in my shop rate. So when I have customers who come in and pick up, and when I ship items out, they are paying for my traveling to other jobs too. That way, theres no "travel charge" on the invoice, but believe me, I do get paid for my travel time and expenses.

I was actually on the reverse end of this with a purchase I made on eBay. Seller just never shipped the item. So after giving him a week to give me an answer, (understanding the sellers side of things) I received a refund, which remind me that I wanted to leave neg feedback for the seller. Tried to and I got an error message saying that I had been refunded so the feedback feature was not accessible for that sale.

50% deposit up front, remainder on delivery/ prior to installation on site & getting in writing. Half up front weeds out the people who can't pay, and once you have half of the money for a sign, they definitely want to get their hands on it so they will produce the remainder on delivery. Or they simply don't get the sign. We love our family and friends, but they are always the ones that will be the most trouble to work with.

The best thing to do to protect your sellers status and your feedback rating is if you feel the customer is going to throw a fit and be a nuisance, just refund the purchase in eBay. Once they have been refunded, they can't leave feedback for the purchase so you're safe, and as dee stated, add them to your blocked list. I probably have over 100 buyers on my blocked list for that reason.

Quick fix, my first mug press was a cheap chinese from the big auction site, same issue. bought a $20 infared temp sensor and found that the temp in the press was 40 degreese hotter than what it was saying on the control panel. Along witht he cheap construction, you also have to contend with the un-even heating across the contact surface. My suggestion, You can get a decent sized convection toaster oven, and 5-10 mug wraps for less than the price of a top of the line mug press, and be able to out produce the mug press with the same exact quality.

its not that 1 degree would be a big deal, its that the machine can only go to 399, and if you run it maxed out every time, it will decrease the life expectancy greatly (even though its a you-get-what-you-pay-for piece of equipment) think about it, you dont run your car full throttle everywhere you go, dont run your equipment at full bore and it will last you a while. the ROI on sublimation is very high. I reccomend saving for a good heat press and a seperate mug press. you can make your money back in no time. Remember, Customized items cary a premium becasue they are 1-off items.

i had this problem and it drove me up the wall for two weeks. i began to think i made a bad investment but with ALOT of patience , and asking questions i eventually discovered what was wrong. ive been looking around the forum and noticed i wasnt the only one with this problem. its a very simple problem thats easily fixed, but can aggrivate you beyond belief. heres my remedy to the situation and i hope it helps anyone now and in the furture. the bit-rate that the computer transfers information to your cutter has to match in THREE places: 1. in the Control Panell, open System, click the hardware tab, click the Device Manager button, and under Ports find your cutter. right click, and select properties. now click the port settings tab. look at what the Bits Per Second option is set to. mine was set to 19200. i find it worked best to use what the computer picks by default. remember that number. 2. on your cutters lcd screen, scroll through the settings to your baud setting. change it to what you found in the device manager, in this case, 19200. make sure it saved that setting by restarting the cutter and checking it. 3. in your project manager, when you select what cutter to use, right click on that, select cutter options or properties ( depending on what program you use) and make sure that the bit rate for your cutter matches the previous two. once all these numbers matched up, i have not had a problem since. although, every once in a while, one of those three numbers will change itself for no apparent reason. havent figured that one out yet. but for the time being. im glad i figured this out and im actually starting to have fun with this. hope someone else can use this and not have to go through the headaches i went through

anybody have any experience with this model? i need to replace my 24" cutter, and having the option to print if i so choose later is an added bonus. would it be worth $300-$400

Ok, i have a job for a local fire dept. that wants property ID stickers for their equipment. No problem. They need 2000 of them, no problem. They need to be numbered sequentially starting with 0001 all the way to 2000. PROBLEM! How can i auto generate the numbers with text in sequential order without sitting at my computer for days typing out every number from 1 to 2000?

ok its getting to the point where im turning away more work than id like to because i dont have print capabilities. now im looking around and im finding thermal ink vs. solovent and i have no idea what that means. i was looking at some smaller WFP that have the ability to be roll fed, and can handle the thickness of the vinyl, but is the ink going to bond to the material? i was looking at a used Epson Stylus Pro 4000. am i in the right ball park? my budget for a printer is $1000 max. not trying to sound needy, but theres alot of crap to weed through and im not 100% confident that i know what im looking for. any help is appreciated http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/WideFormat/WideFormatDetail.jsp?infoType=Specs&oid=-13521&category=Wide+Format+Printers&menuSpec=4583

looking for this font, what the font was no help at all. anyhting you guys could suggest would help.

hey guys, im looking for a 2002 ford expedition vehicle template, anybody have one they are willing to share?

just what i was looking for, thanks rod

its a step up from my cutter pros cr630. and the printing works great too. i am aware of the steep cost to replace the heads when they go, and the ribbons run about $8 a sq. ft. to operate, but its moving my little operation up to the next level. so for $350 plus shipping, with a bunch of extras, im not complaning in the least

well i ended up purchasing for $350. regardless of the print feature being outdated and in-efficient, i still think it was worth it for the cutter.

thanks for the info guys, didnt know they were THAT expensive. looks like ill be outsourcing my print graphics for a little while longer. i remember seeing somewhere that solvent is preferred over thermal. whats the difference? and asside from the cost of the machine itself, whats the operating cost of these machines, i.e. whats ink for these things go for?

ok guys, its been a while, last time i was on here telling you how to fix the write port error, and now im having a completley different issue and i could really use someones help. ok im running windows vista with flexi starter, cutting with a Cutterpros CR630 24" cutter. i load my file, load the project manager, (which with flexi starter takes forever and a day to load), can cut the first image, no problem. go to cut the second color, and the project manager will show the job, and it will say "cutting...0%" and just sit there. the computers not frozen, the cutters not frozen. i dont understand. and once it gets to that point, the only way to remedy the situation is to restart the computer and cutter. i need some help guys, im pulling my hair out here

not sure where to put this question, so ill stick it here. ok, got a guy, bought a boat, wants the old name taken off and new vinyl name put on. its paint of some sort, not sure if its automotive grade or what, but is on a fiberglass door and its fairly faded and weathered. question is whats the best way to remove the paint without damaging the fiberglass under it? also what vinyl do you think would stand up the best to direct sunlight all day and salt water?

can you cut directly from cs4?

anybody got one? either a mask or a little person with a mask for a face

any help would be appreciated