Jay2703

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Posts posted by Jay2703


  1. Are you talking applying the reverse vinyl to the back side of the clear panel then spraying the back side to create the background. This would leave the clear plastic in front. I think the paint would adhere better to the plastic surface than wood. You wouldn't have moisture getting into the wood causing expansion/contraction. Any bubbles would be visible in the clear though. 


  2. I have an old Epson WF1200 that the print heads dried up on. It has the Cobra Ink setup and I'm going to trash it. Just wondering if anyone wants the Cobra setup before it goes bye bye. Just pay shipping from 99026. Probably doesn't weigh a pound so $7 or $8 via USPS Priority mail. 


  3. Add registration marks to the design and layer it as you apply it. I use a 1/2" + and cut the middle out on all the layers except the first. Use the hole in the middle of the + to align the other layers and tape across the middle using the hinge method to apply them.

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  4. Use a sharp blade and make sure your cutting depth is correct. Too shallow and it doesn't cut all the way. Too deep and you cut into the backing paper making it equally difficult to weed. I use an Exact-O knife for everything with the very tip lightly dulled. 

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  5. We do it where I work. We use an exacto knife blade in a drag knife setup. We purposely dull the tip of the blade before we use it. It's done on a large flatbed cutter. We cut from the back.

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  6. 55 minutes ago, Richard D said:

    Thanks Rich, I got it. Seems there are way more many fonts than my trial version has. Wonder if I can download specific fonts I like, or do I have to buy the full version of Signblazer?

    SignBlazer is no longer available for sale.