Hen

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Posts posted by Hen


  1. I use Vinyl Master LTR and I am printing Sublimation.  I have had no problems printing it as long as the print is no larger than an 8.5" X 11".  I'm needing to make bigger prints and I have read where you can tile it and print it on several sheets but I can't figure it out on LTR and I downloaded the PRO demo and didn't see how on there either.  Is it possible with any of Vinyl Master programs or am I going to have to buy a different program.  


  2. Thank you guys for all of your suggestions but I'm still lost:(  I have looked all over this program and I don't see anything off.  I find the calibration on it but I'm not cutting it, I'm just trying to print it to my sublimation printer. That may not matter but I'm not sure how to calibrate for printing instead of cutting.   The height prints correct but the width comes out short every time.  I attached a couple of pictures of what my screens look like.  Maybe you will see something that I am missing

    screenshot 1.PNG

    Screenshot2.PNG


  3. I am new to sublimation and using Vinyl Master LTR and I can't get the sizing correct.  I put the dimensions in and when I print it the Height always prints out smaller than the size that I have put in there.  When I go to print my design then it is so hard to just get what I want to print to come up on the display to be printed.  I have used this program to do vinyl and it took me a while to learn but now I'm questioning if it is a good program for sublimation.  Maybe I am missing something that needs to be changed in order to do sublimation.  


  4. I have saved a lot of my work and when I go back to use it later it will not open.  I try file-open and I see them but they have a blue box and the blade instead of just the little blade in the corner. When I try to open them they just go to the blank grey screen as if I didn't try to open anything.  The ones with the littler blade at the bottom, opens up just fine just not these. Tried open-import-file it doesn't do anything but goes back to the grey screen. 


  5. On 1/9/2019 at 5:03 AM, dcbevins said:

    Never done these bags, but polypropylene is going to melt around 330 F.   This stuff has a low press temp compared to others, but have never tried it.  Limited colors.  https://www.cutterpros.com/specialty-materials-polybag-flex-for-polypropylene-bags

    I have a bit of brand loyalty gong on with Siser.  On one of there forums they state this:

    http://www.siserna.com/heat-apply-htv-heat-sensitive-material/

    Maybe someone else has actually done this.

    Thank you!  You solved my problem.  I went to http://www.siserna.com/heat-apply-htv-heat-sensitive-material/ and found the answer in the comments.  She said that the Siser Easy Weed would work.  So I did a test on one of the bags and it worked great!  I did 12 seconds at 270 and it didn't stick so I raised it to 280 for 12 seconds and it worked great!  

    • Thanks 2

  6. 1 hour ago, Sue2 said:

    Don't know what your bow looked like to begin with so it's hard to tell you what to do.

    If it was a color outline of a bow you traced you will get a trace of that outline...

    some trace programs will give you the inside fill as white....some not.

    Try hand outlining the bow for your customer.

    Sue

    I looked on etsy and found where I can just buy the file.  They come in SVG, DXF and PNG.  Will the uscutterMH 871-MK2 , using the Vinylmaster ltr program cut it?


  7. On 10/26/2018 at 8:28 AM, Sue2 said:

    A quick fix:  If you change the color of the "piece or pieces" you need, then go to CUT, you should be able to just cut that color.

    Sue2

    Thanks Sue,  I was able to print what I needed by changing the color.  A new problem that I have is I am trying to add a pink bow to an object.  But the only bow that I can find is just white with a color outline.  I need it solid so I can show my customer what it will look like.  I have broke it up but still cant color the inside.  any suggestions.


  8. 16 hours ago, Wildgoose said:

    probably once you cut the project it auto converted the text to curves. All cutting programs have to have converted live text over to lines and curves in order for the cutter to follow the lines. Some programs will cut from the desktop without making you actually convert them over manually. I assume that VM has converted them. Do a test to see if you create something but don't cut it and save it if it opens up still with editable text or not and then cut that and see if it changes things for you. It's all about getting to know your program and the quirks and intricacies that go with them. I design in Illustrator and manually convert my live text in order to cut it. I usually keep what I call a "working file" with things like live text and un-wleded objects still free floating so I can later go make changes or continue on a different direction. I save my cut files with a special moniker than lets me know it's cut ready. In my case I downsave them to AI version 8 that my cutting program likes best and so I place a number 8 behind the name to clearly define this.  If your program does in fact convert things at some point in the process you may benefit from doing something similar. It would be a pain to have to go remember what font you used every time you wanted to modify a design. No matter what you do there will likely always be times you have to go figure out what you used. (that is actually one of the reasons I bought Find my Font, saves me hours just inside my own computer)

    Thank you,  I will save two copies everytime on things that I may need to make changes to and see if this will help. One to print and one to make changes too.


  9. I have everything broke apart.  As long as it says artistic text it will let me change anything or see the font but somehow after I group it, save it and cut it, it says curve and the nodes.  Then I cant do anything to it but delete it and redo that part.  Sue I did change the color just now and was able to cut separate.  I messed up on weeding a logo and needed two letters so this helped a lot.  Just have to figure out how to change the type.  I am working on a project that the header is all the same but the text at the bottom is different on each one.  So it would be easier if I could just go in and save it as a duplicate and then just change the words on each one instead of having to redo it every time.  Any suggestions.  Thanks a lot guys, you help me tremendously.


  10. On 10/21/2018 at 7:07 PM, Wildgoose said:

    I recommend a lower platen cover. they will help you slide shirts around as you first lay them on and if you have anything on the back side it will keep it from sticking. On top I would recommend just picking up some parchment paper to use as a top sheet. It's cheap and available at your local walmart and you can get hundreds of press cycles with it before it starts to go bad. On my fancy press I finally broke down and bought an upper platen cover as well. and it has been nice to not even have to mess with a cover sheet but not something that I used until recently. If you are pressing a single color item the carrier plastic is sufficient to protect the platen so I usually don't mess with any cover if I am just single color. I used to when I was new but eventually just stopped. You will sooner or later want some heat platen cleaner and scrub your upper platen once in a while. I clean mine right before I do white shirts usually. 

    Here is the cleaner: https://www.uscutter.com/EZ-Off-Heat-Press-Platen-Cleaner-5-25-oz-tube

    You will most likely need a press pillow as well. I bought a fairly large one (12"x15") and have used it for years. I eventually had to go get some new foam for it. Anytime you have something that has thick seams or collars or hoodies with the front pocket, you need to be careful that they don't hold the shirt up near those seams. My very first failure was a baby onsie that had enough thick seams around the middle that it didn't create good pressure. I have bought a few other options as well over the years but use the pillow most often. Particularly with polo shirts and things with pockets. I have a prefect press pad I bought from stahls but you can use a mouse pad or two and get the same effect and I find that on polyester it leave too much of a defined press mark so I use it only when I have no choice. My little pad is about 4"x5" and just right for left chest sized logo's. A mouse pad could be cut down to the perfect size and stacked two high if needed. I also have a sleeve pillow (6"x18" I think) that I slide into long sleeves or down sweat pants. Must have's that you can build into the price of a specific order that will need them. When you get busy enough to afford a Fusion they have an actual lower platen for sleeves that I use most of the time but occasionally something is too small to fit on it so I fall back to my pillow.

    Thanks again for all of your help!  I have my cutter cutting great, my press is perfect for what I need and I was really surprised on how heavy and well built that the press was.  I have made a few of our company shirts and they all turned out great except for a few of the first ones.  I washed them inside out and the problem with them is that when they came out of the wash, the vinyl was wrinkled looking.  I hung them to dry and then decided what did I have to loose but to throw them in the dryer and just see what the outcome would be and they actually turned out good.    

    I'm not sure if you know anything about the program vinylmaster ltr but I have posted in the program area and no one has commented. It may be a crazy question but I'm stuck and can't move forward.  I created some projects and cut and saved them but when I went back into the program later and wanted to make some changes to the text.  It won't let me.  The text shows as curve instead of artistic text now.  It will let me delete it and retype it but I have to match the fonts up the sizes up and everything again and try to guess what the font was that I used because it wont show me anything.  

    Maybe you can help me or tell me which direction to go to get help.


  11. On 10/20/2018 at 10:00 AM, Wildgoose said:

    If you have a viable business you may be able to set up an account at Sanmar. They are my go-to for most things. Those who aren't collecting taxes usually use Jiffyshirts or similar semi-wholesaler online. Epic sports is another that doesn't care if you are a legit business. 

    Thanks again for your help.

    I'm going to order the recommended 15" X 15" digital swing arm heat press.  I have researched all weekend and this seems to be the best unless I have a lot more to invest.  I am going to get the one with the HTV Bundle.  It is a better deal than ordering them separate and I can make all of the colors work.  I see where a lot of people use the non stick sheets.  Will I need them or do you recommend them for most of the time?