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  1. Past hour
  2. Dakotagrafx

    Help Vectorizing

    looks like the logo was designed by GP designs in a contest https://logotournament.com/contests/site-development-corporation/by/gpdesign and according to that site the agreement looks they would be provided high resolution files - there would need to be changes for cut files as the logo is made for print or web use with the "reflection" part of the upper logo
  3. darcshadow

    Help Vectorizing

    Trace by hand, that is a pretty easy logo to do by hand. Bring the logo into your program and using the bezier tool to trace over the image.
  4. cindus1

    Help Vectorizing

    Thanks for the info on the text! X1ArmBanditx--Sorry to ask stupid questions, but I'm pretty new to all this. What do you mean by "redraw?" Thanks!! Cindy
  5. Dakotagrafx

    Help Vectorizing

    the words are in Handel Gothic ITC Pro (Medium Bold) which is a commercial font
  6. Dakotagrafx

    Problem

    what does your test cut look like? do you have your offset set at 0? do you have the tab on the blade holder UNDER the hold down?
  7. darcshadow

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    For the MH cutter you want to select the RedSail RS720C cutter. Your port should be something like Blazer.com1: TrippLite USB to Serial The squiggly lines are likely because you have the wrong plotter selected and the commands being sent are not being recognized correctly by the MH.
  8. Today
  9. slice&dice

    Help Vectorizing

    First things first --- identify those fonts (2 different ones). Do not ever vectorize text. Horrible results. Ask them for a higher-resolution copy, maybe if you're lucky get an .eps version!!!
  10. X1ArmBanditx

    Help Vectorizing

    might need to redraw that one..i ran it thru vector magic and is just too low of quality
  11. So someone asked me if I could do a shirt with their company logo, the image is attached. When I import and then go to vectorize, there are so many colors I can't get it to come out right. The shirt is going to be yellow, so i want to remove that color completely. The corners of little yellow parallelograms and the lines on the road aren't sharp. The letters don't even look clear. I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to somehow convert this image to another format first? I have Vinylmaster Pro. I also have a Cricut and their software seems to do a little better job, but still has rounded corners. Any help appreciated. Thanks! Cindy
  12. Marble crafts

    Problem

    I don't have sharp edges when cut on graphtechce-6000plus plotter using cm4 software !
  13. CANTON14

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    It will print now using signblazer. But it does the squiggly lines again. I’ll just have to get on the phone with Uscutter. Their hours of operation are ridiculous lol.
  14. slice&dice

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    What those pictures show is not clear. Razor cutter? No. TrippLite adapter? ?? LPT port? No. Get back to us with better\corrected info, OK?
  15. CANTON14

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    Sorry the videos wouldn’t load. It’s doing the same squiggly lines. On signblazer with the series port adapter
  16. CANTON14

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    DE70783C-18DF-4195-88A3-2B13888D35FE.MOV DE70783C-18DF-4195-88A3-2B13888D35FE.MOV
  17. Yesterday
  18. dcbevins

    Quick Question

    Like others have said, autotrace is available in many programs, but it will often not get you all the way there. Redrawing becomes nessacary on many images. That said, a centerline trace might work better for at least the housing. Your image, outline trace, centerline trace, your 2nd image, outlines trace from CorelDraw 2019. I didn't spend much time on the settings.
  19. I have vm on my design computer but never cut with it - I believe you need to go to vinylmaster under your programs - open vinylspooler and set up your cutter from there - but I am far from an expert on that part. were the videos in this part of the support section of uscutters website helpful at all? https://support.uscutter.com/support/solutions/folders/14000106609 rather than getting frustrated might not hurt to call support while they are still open
  20. Makers720

    Quick Question

    Exactly, just looking for a software that could do this.
  21. I'm back. Boy... I'll tell ya. I had a good look around, and I'm still pretty disappointed with the lack of a knowledge base. Anyhoo... I've got VM4 running on a non-internet machine. I went through the motions to have the program activated, but I can't get anything to load into the preview pane, other than the test stuff that's already there. Of course, I had to get the program to detect the machine, identify the USB port, etc. I typed out some text in the design area. And I notice that the cut (blade) icon is grayed out. I was able to save the test file. I even imported an Illustrator file (which imported perfectly). For some reason... no go. I'm obviously overlooking something. This thing has got me feeling like I've somehow offended it, and it refuses to cooperate until I apologize to it, and maybe hug it, take it out to dinner? Good Lord. For the love of God... would someone mind holding my hand? Pretty please?
  22. Enrique

    Graphtec FC8600 HELP!

    UPDATE: I just did the Offset Adjustment test. It was totally fine! I am still on the hunt to figure out what is going on.
  23. I was just using the reflective as an example. It being constructed the way it is, it has a tendency to delaminate if you do it wrong, which makes it easy to see that you're doing something wrong. I learned the right way through a few very expensive lessons. No matter what type of vinyl you are using, ALWAYS remove the backing paper from the vinyl & transfer tape. Never try to "lift the vinyl" from the backing paper. It may seem like two ways of saying the same thing, but it isn't. Peeling the backing paper back over the top of itself and sliding it off is the correct way to do it. Someone on here once gave a great description and I wish I could find it. Let me see if I can do it justice... A. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be strong enough to permanently stick to the final surface (rear window, wall, bumper, mug, etc.). B. The adhesive on the vinyl has to be week enough to release from the backing paper. To help this, the backing paper has a slightly waxy finish. This bond is also designed to release when the angle of force is greater than 90 degrees, so pulling the backing paper back over the top of itself goes way past 90 degrees. Simply put, you can't pull the two slices of bread apart on a grilled cheese sandwich because all of that gooey cheese across both surfaces is fighting against you. But if you grab one corner and peel it back you are only fighting the thin line where it's trying to separate. C. The transfer tape adhesive must be weaker than the bond between the vinyl and the final surface (bond A). If not, then you'd never get the vinyl to release from the transfer tape. D. The transfer tape adhesive must be stronger than the bond between the vinyl and the backing paper (bond B ) Logic says that the transfer tape can't be both weaker than and stronger than at the same time. Two things allow this: 1) The substrates. The adhesive has to stick better to the final surface than it does the backing paper, hence the waxy surface. 2) The removal force. Bonds A & C are almost always fighting forces applied to the vinyl at 90 degrees or less which is where they are the strongest. Bonds B & D are broken at an angle greater than 90. . . by folding the backing paper back over itself and that's where the bond is weakest. But if you try to break Bonds B & D by pulling up the transfer tape and vinyl you aren't passing 90% and you're fighting the strongest bond.
  24. darcshadow

    Quick Question

    I think he's just using those as reference of what he wants. As Dakota said, most programs have a trace feature, but that's not going to give you the outline like you're wanting. You pretty much have to redraw it, or do a lot of editing of the photo before tracing it.
  25. darcshadow

    MH MK2 will only print squiggly lines

    Try using the serial port on the cutter. If you have a serial port on the computer you don't need a driver at all. If you don't have a serial port you'll need a usb-2-serial adapter, Tripp-lite is the recommended choice. Then you'll just need a driver for the adapter.
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