FrogDog

The 813 arrived. Had some problems with setting the copam to cut some tight letters but that is a whole other story. I used one of the bad cuts as a test. Pounded it with Krylon. Just loaded it on. Was trying to get as much of the solvents onto the mask as possible. It did NOT melt. It peeled off easily and pretty much held nicely. Other than the cutting problems I might actually like the stuff. Needs more testing in my art process but it might be an acceptable replacement for the Venturetape. It certainly will work for the purpose I was asking about.

Just spent the day cutting the Oramask. 60 degree blade, 150 gms, of pressure to cut some 1" letters with lots of sharp points. Still had some lifting. Not sure I'm liking the Oramask.

Yeah. That's what I was thinking as I wrote that last one. Just get a roll and test it. It's cheap enough and I've got plenty of use for it on other stuff. Heck, it may even work better than the Venturetape I can't find. Thanks. I'll let you know how it works out.

Turns out my guy is going to use Krylon. Would the 813 be OK for that? I keep asking about the the 813 because I will be using the rest of the roll for my personal work and it is a hell of a lot cheaper. I use mostly water based. Golden, wicked, auto air and createx illustration colors on canvas, illustration board and aluminum panels. But these old airplane restorers don't want to hear about water based stuff. I got away with wicked and autoborne on a nose art job I did because I 2 pk cleared over it. This guy is just painting numbers and wants to do a one shot and done on it. I LOVE Venturetape myself. Use it for everything. Except now I am running out and I can't find a supplier. Coast used to carry it but dropped it for their own branded stuff.

Thank-you. I appreciate the advice.

Has anybody used Oramask 813 for stencils they painted with automotive Urethane's? How did it work? The description says it is recommended for water based but my customer is using urethanes. So is it going to melt? Thanks.

Thanks. This was a big help. They try to get this info out there. If it was on the first page of the COPAM specs it might help...(ie. uses Roland Blades) I've seen it on some of the blade pages but, unfortunately for me, not on the mixed 6-pack I was looking at.

Thanks. This sounds like a fix for my problem. I am trying to cut 18 pt letters out of Venture Tape (spray mask) but it isn't happening. Same thing like you only the blade holder gets a bunch of vinyl in it and I have to pick it out between tries (all failures). At about 1/4 inch tall I wondered if the letters were just too small for the copam to cut. I've got the stock blade so I was wonderiing if I needed a different blade, or a new one or what. I'll try this tomorrow and see what happens.

Perhaps Service Corps of Retired Executives? They are a US SBA organization chartered to give free counseling to potential business owners...they are Retired business executives that will look at you business plan and help you plan and execute.

Thanks for the tips. I will look for the auctions. And I'll probably end up with the cleancuts if I get serious about this.

Thanks. I think I got it. Between tracing the faces and then welding. I got output. The double lines are canceling out so I'll have to fix that. I put a pen in the cutter and made my first plot. It was missing all the lines at the corners. But my first output from the device!!!!!! Woohoo. This is really cool.

Thanks. I think I got it. Between tracing the faces and then welding. I got output. The double lines are canceling out so I'll do what you say. I put a pen in the cutter and made my first plot. It was missing all the lines at the corners. But my first output from the device!!!!!! Woohoo. This is really cool.

To quote Roseann Rosannadanna: "Never mind." You dont' really need the pen attachment. I fit a fat pen into the holder and it works just fine. Anyway, it works just fine and it saved the cost of the pen attachment and the shipping. A stick pen won't work as it is too thin. Has to be a fat pen. I'd still order extra blades, though.

I think brands of the world got theirs from the AF. The silver one is the exact one I am using but all the fountain fills are making it nasty. It was pretty easy to trace and I'm done but now I have another problem. I export to eps then import into Signblazer and it looks good. But when I switch to cutter a couple objects, faces, are moved way out of place. On my way to the Corel thread to see what that is.

Thanks BP but I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm all wrapped around the axel with which way to do the original trace. Although I will remember that when I switch over to AI. I am using Corel because I started with Corel and it is so "intuitive" but one of my jobs requires AI so I have to move over before I start. I am starting to think I am over analyzing and I should just trace it, cut it and see what happens and quit trying to engineer it in my head.