KYSIGN

You really need to prepress to get the moisture out. Make sure your heatpress is displaying the temp in Fahrenheit and not Celsius. I normally use around 310F for Easyweed. It also looks like you need more pressure. You should be able to see the texture of the fabric on the htv.

The problem with the aqueous printable vinyl is that the coating that allows it to be printable will eventually fail and flake off, even if laminated. I have used clear/transparent Oracal 651 as a laminate in the past since it is normally cheaper than real laminate and available in smaller rolls. This will help protect the decal from scratches but won't really help much with UV protection. It's best to use pigment based inks instead of dye based to minimize fading. I have had decals made like this last for over a year with minimal fading but eventually the coating turns to dust and everything falls apart.

He actually "threatened" me on Facebook after I complained about the quality. He sent a message with my address he got from eBay and said we would talk about it in person if I didn't stop contacting his customers. I never even contacted his customers or had access to his customer information. He actually had some malware running on his website.

It looks like some shapes are closed while others are not which could indicate mechanical problems. Check the belt tension and that the grit roller bolts are tight as others have suggested. Also check that the blade carriage is properly attached and not loose. Check the arm that tightens around the blade holder for cracks. Prefeed the vinyl from the roll by hand. The settings I used for my old Mh721 were are follows. Offset .25 mm, Overcut .04 or .08 inch. I typically cut Oracal 651 at a force of 140 to 160. I don't remember the exact speeds I used but I think it was around 300 for medium detail and 100 for fine detail. Higher speeds would shake the machine to death and cause the material to shift more than normal.

I keep critical files manually backed up on multiple DVDs to protect from ransomware encryption which can quickly infect removable HDD and flash drives. Make sure that you use good quality media designed for long term storage and periodically make new backups since they can go bad over time. I can't recommend any specific program since I prefer to do mine manually.

The file looks fine to me and has decent quality text. Your cut text is rounded and looks like a mess. Have you checked blade offset?

I have purchased from them and the quality wasn't very good. You can get a lot of images for fairly cheap but they are not as cut ready as they claim. They have some jagged edges, overlaps and look traced. I would download some of their free sample images and zoom in and otherwise inspect them in wireframe. Then you can decide if it's worth your time to clean up the files or you are happy using them as is. A quick Google search with review after their website url may yield some results.

Check your speed, blade offset and overcut. The corners of the border are rounded and should be straight.

The RLA stands for release liner adhesion. This helps prevent the tape from peeling up around the edges and getting stuck to itself and other things. It will still stick to itself.

I had similar problems with my old mh721. I just placed the blade holder a little higher up in the clamp.

It sounds like you need to weld it.

You can't just cut raster images. You need vector images. Some software programs have a trace function that can help convert raster images to vector.

Unless you have a better image you will either need to redraw that section or pay someone else to do it.

http://download.uscutter.com/SBEforUSCutterSetup.exe

I suggest you get some cutting software. Although it can be possible to cut straight from corel under perfect conditions it's not optimal. Corel and Illustrator don't have adjustments for offset or overcut. Design in Corel or Illustrator and export your finished design to a format compatible with your cutting software. You can try the outdated but free Sign blazer software or buy Vinyl Master, Sure Cuts a lot, Signcut, Flexisign etc. Just make sure the software you choose supports your cutter.