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deceptiveclothing

difference between 45 and 60 degree blades

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So I am new to this whole vinyl cutting thing and I was wondering what the difference is between all these blades out there and what not...I use to refine cutter..just curious..thanks for any input....

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A 45 degree blade is pretty much standard use.  The 60 degree blade is used to cut thicker materials (the angle of the blade would help keep it from binding in the material).  A 30 degree blade is used for materials like window tint.  For smaller characters or lettering, a 45 degree blade with a lower offset is what you need (normal is .25 offset - small character blades have offset of .17 or lower).

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wow thanks  cyber i was woundering that also my self

wow what a bunch of knowldgable people on the forum i wish the other forums i am on was this  great of people willing to help and share ideas wow

thanks again cyber thanks

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cyber is really nice thanks for the vector graphic it works great.

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For smaller characters or lettering, a 45 degree blade with a lower offset is what you need 

 

I beg to differ with this advice.  A vast majority of what I do is small lettering and intricate details and since switching over to using 60° blades (from CleanCut Blades, of course) I've been quite happy.  When I finally broke the tip off of my 60° blade and switched back to a 45°, I could tell a difference.   I prefer the 60° blade for small work.

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I too switched to a 60. My Summa has a 36deg standard which actually does fine but I bought a 60 from Clean-cut to try out (the Summa 60 is SUPER thick, I have one in a separate blade holder) and have been happy with the results and I concur with OW that it seems to do fine cuts a little cleaner. Less lift on tight corners. My stock 60 was just to dang thick and had a .90 offset and was not an improvement for tight stuff just good and tough for thick stuff. The CC blade is the same diameter as my 36deg with just a slight offset difference. 

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I started out using 60 degree blades I figured the more of a point on the the better off I would be WRONG they ware a lot quicker . Every 200 - 300 decals I would have to swap out blades, if I didn't catch it in time I would ruin a few decals.

 

Now its 45 degree blades for me. I cut about 500 decals before I even need to start making a force adjustment after about 1500 decals I toss the blade.

 

No special blade I get them from the big auction site.

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I used my 60° CleanCut Blade for a year before it finally broke.

 

You definitely get what you pay for.

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60 degree for very small details 45 degree is the common blade used for most all around cutting but if for some reason you are cutting very small detail the 60 will make your life easier I just use the cheap blades from ebay auctions and the work well and last realitivey long. I have not tried the clean cut yet every one raves about them that have used them.

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I used my 60° CleanCut Blade for a year before it finally broke.

 

You definitely get what you pay for.

 

 

Do you have to keep bumping the force or do you see little wear over this time ?

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i use a 60' clean cut and use it mainly for HTV which is brutal on my blades. I still get 3-4 months of use out of them and I cut way more than most people on here do.

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Do you have to keep bumping the force or do you see little wear over this time ?

 

Nope, once I get it dialed in I only adjust the force as I switch between different materials.

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Im ordering one for my new graphtec cutter next week. I brought a brand new one only used about 10x and its for a roland type holder. i used it for my laserpoint 1. Thinking of selling it for $12 shipped. I had it a few weeks b4 I brought a graphtec.

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Hey guys can you cut sticky flock with a 45' blade on a mh871-mk2 and if so what pressure and speed?

 

Thanks for the help

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Hey guys can you cut sticky flock with a 45' blade on a mh871-mk2 and if so what pressure and speed?

 

Thanks for the help

its best to use a 60* blade for sticky flock and I would go with a cleancut blade.

 

pressure you would have to figure out and speed its up to you. When I had my laserpoint 1 I was at 180-200 pressure for the flock with a 60* blade.

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I know this is way after the fact but anything helps I guess...

I found this from Roland.com

http://support.rolanddga.com/docs/documents/departments/technical services/downloads/ra_cutter blade knowledge.pdf


Blade Angle
•Blade angle should be chosen based on thickness and density
•Thickness is determined by substrate without backer
•Density is determined by material construction and lamination
•Blade should be able to cut through entire substrate layer and into the backing without going deeper than blade edge


Blade Offset
•The offset determines the blades turning radius and compensation from the cutting carriage
•A blade with a higher offset can handle thicker/laminated substrates better
•Offsets over 1mm are simulated to compensate for material properties.


Blade Extension
•Changing blade extension can substitute for changing pen pressure
•Max blade extension is designed for pre-printed graphics
•Blade extension should be minimized for cut substrates
•Change blade extension by twisting blade holder cap
•Blades with shorter blade edges need less extension

Common Cutting Problems & Solutions
•Incomplete Cuts
 •Problem:
  •Vinyl is not cut all the way through
 •Possible Solutions: (in order of diagnosis)
  •Blade dull or chipped (causes friction and doesn’t stay deep, but planes on surface like a boat)
  •Improper blade extension (blade can’t dig deep enough because blade holder cap interferes)
  •Pen pressure not high enough (same as improper blade extension)
  •Stitch Cut or Dash Cut

 •Problem:
  •Cut lines in dashes or even spaced sections
 •Possible Solutions:
  •Blade chipped or dull(can’t cut material and jumps due to friction)
  •Blade holder needs lubrication or replacement (blade doesn’t swivel properly due to friction)
  •Slow speed (same as blade being chipped or dull)
  •Replace damaged cutter strip (blade caught in grooves and jumps to next location)

   •Circles Don’t Close
 •Problem:
  •Vectors do not connect according to artwork on screen
 •Possible Solutions:
  •Use sans serif fonts (Serif fonts have sharp angled corners and the blade can’t turn fast enough)
  •Points need to be rounded (vector graphics that have small angles like serif fonts. e.g. -flame tips)
  •Incorrect offset (Plotter is over or under-compensating for vector curve)
  •Small Letters and Shapes Lift Up During Cutting
 •Problem:
  •Adhesive gels back together under vinyl after being cut
 •Possible Solutions:
  •Use vinyl with a different adhesive (some adhesives don’t adhere to the liner well enough for small detail. Removable/low tack adhesives are most common problem)
  •Increase blade extension (adhesive may be too thick and not cut all the way through)
  •Replace blade (sharper blade cuts adhesive better)
  •Use higher angle blade (low angle blade may not cut through adhesive effective enough)
  •Increase pen pressure (liner could be soft and absorbing adhesive causing it to gel together)

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Dakota may get a chuckle from this zombie again, but that was some good info DNA, thanks

Cal

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