MDesigns

Prep for first shirt run... What do I need

Recommended Posts

Got my 36" SC cutter up and running and it's pretty good so far.  Only real issue I find is super small font it struggles. I have tried to really push it but after a point it just pulls up the fine text. Any thoughts on this?

Not my real point for posting but Ill take any pointers if others have any?

Im about to order some Sisser easy weed HTV. I have the heat transfer and teflon sheets.  Is there anything else i need? I see Sisser also offers PSV transfer tape? Do I need this or is it just an aid? Appreciate any offered insight!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know if you have read my many, many posts on setting the correct blade depth or not. Usually vinyl lifting is caused by too much blade exposed out of the blade holder. Your vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick and you only should be cutting with the very tip of the blade. Don't use any instructions that have to do with using a credit card thickness or post it notes.  Small text you will want to cut slow. 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have and it was incredibly helpful I guess I was just curious to see how far one can go with this kind of cutter when it comes to fine print.  If  I scale up a little it seems just fine.  So I feel my depth is correct but I will re test.

I see your a seasoned vet so any insight on the first t shirt pass? I will be do a motocross jersey that has ink sublimation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also one thing I find odd with Sure cuts a lot is I often send a job to the cutter and it doesnt receive.  I have to flip the power off and back on.. Not a huge deal but it happens like every other job

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't do shirts etc.  But you should turn your cutter off and on after your cuts, so the cutter dumps the data from the previous order. Or reset it.  Your cutter only has so much memory. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have gone done the test.  The issue is when you get down to a certain point with say the letter "I" one of 2 things happen.  1. The cut is to deep and destroys the lettering. I back off the blade and then it doesnt cut all the way thru or pulls up the I bc its too light on the blade depth. When Adjusting the blade Im moving a 16th of the turn on the stop knob.  Im new to this but I understand the precision is part of this.  So how far do you turn the stop lock ring on the cutter head?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, MDesigns said:

I have gone done the test.  The issue is when you get down to a certain point with say the letter "I" one of 2 things happen.  1. The cut is to deep and destroys the lettering. I back off the blade and then it doesnt cut all the way thru or pulls up the I bc its too light on the blade depth. When Adjusting the blade Im moving a 16th of the turn on the stop knob.  Im new to this but I understand the precision is part of this.  So how far do you turn the stop lock ring on the cutter head?

You use the least amount of blade as possible.  You use the force of the machine to cut with. So up the force till cuts good.  I don't have your cutter or a blade holder like yours. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Appreciate all the replies here. I will give that a shot. You seem to suggest that going super small shouldn't be an issue.  The lettering Im attempting is less than 1/2" prob about a t1/4 or smaller.  I figured the suggested force of 90 was established with some testing on basic 3 mil vinyl which is what I'm using. Its hard to get a real world understanding about the difference in force from say 90 to 91

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are no set in stone settings for any vinyl cutters. Even the same model will be different.  Vinyl thickness can vary. Older vinyl can be stiffer and require more force. Blades worn down from use will require more force.   You should use the instructions that I posted above for the vinyl that your using. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most of my jobs will be larger. But Im trying to make a nice small packaging logo so I want to use as minimal material as possible.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1/4" is about the smallest you'll be able to get with a stepper machine. The smaller the text, or intricacy of the design, the slower you should be cutting it.

As far as force, each machine will be different, and each material you cut in your machine might be different. I predominately cut 651, but even the color and age of the vinyl I have will determine what the optimal force will be. It will take some time, but you'll start to get a feel for it, just need to be a little patient with that learning curve.

If you have already cut through the backing for things you are cutting, I would suggest looking into getting a replacement cutting strip or two, just to have on hand. Cuts/gouges/slashes in the cutting strip can make difference in what you're cutting. You could get faint cuts, no cuts - but it scratches the vinyl, or my favorite - cuts that look like perforations. I'm not saying that you have to change your cutting strip now, but at some point you probably will - usually when it's more inconvenient (because that's how Murphy works), and it's better to have one than to have to order one and wait, and wait, and wait.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what is the cutting strip? Im not quite familiar with that term or pc? Feels like the slightest adjustment to the could throw things off. Are there better blades u can get vs what the unit ships with?

 

Also I wanted to ask there is a red strip on the face of the cutter that looks like a channel for using a utility knife to cut the roll when a job is done? Is that what its for or am I doing harm in cutting off the vinyl that way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The replaceable cut strip is right below where the plotter cuts and is a sacrificial part for when the blade cuts too deep.  Deep groves in that can affect your cuts.   Personally I only use clean cut brand blades.  If you switch to clean cut blades start with too little blade and reduce your force by 50 percent . . , the trade off to the sharper longer lasting blades is if you cut too deep in the cut strip you can break a tip off ruining the blade.  Up side is they are sharper and last much longer

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ditto on the Clean Cut blades. Much sharper, and it made a huge difference when I changed to them over the whatever shipped with my cutter. I dropped in a 60* blade and never looked back. Although, I do have Clean Cut blades in 60* and 45* on hand.

That's another great tip - a 60* blade can make it easier for you to do smaller text and intricate cuts.

If you find that your cuts are going a little wonky - check the blade holder and make sure that the blade is able to spin freely. You can pop the blade out and make sure that there is no teeny tiny debris in the holder - which sometimes will happen when doing really small stuff. If you're getting inconsistent cuts, with depth and/or perforation, check the cutting strip, and always, always make sure you have the right blade depth.

There are several things you can do to help stop cutting off vinyl - the best method is to set you workspace in whatever design software you're using. For example, my app tape is only 14" wide and I typically use 15" punched vinyl, so my work space will not exceed 14". I can design all I want, and can see a definite border of my workspace.

I've seen a few other people's cutters, and I am stunned of the condition of the cutting strip. If I ask about it, they really have no idea how it got to trashed and torn up. But they do tell me that over the course of time, they've had to increase the pressure/force of the blade ... maybe because where there was once a clean cutting strip, now there are gouges and less resistance. Like Dakota said, it's a sacrificial part of the cutter, and is meant to be replaced on an 'as needed' basis. I've had my cutter for 14+ years and have only replaced it twice, but it'll probably need to get replaced soon, since I have my machine at a friend's office and they are 'going off the rails' and putting in all kinds of bad settings even though I've taken the time to instruct them properly.

https://www.uscutter.com/USCutter-Vinyl-Cutter-Cutting-Strip

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be able to do 1/4" lettering without any trouble. I have an MH and have done some stuff that was about 1/8", it was a pain in the butt and I'll not be doing it again, but it was doable. Also keep in mind though, the smaller something is, the less glue there is to hold it in place and the more likely you are to have it fall off when applied.

With HTV you can actually do pretty small detailed stuff because of how the vinyl sticks to the backing. You still have to weed it and again, the smaller something is the less glue there is to stick to the shirt but you'd be amazed as has small you can get. Again, not something I'd want to do, but still interesting to experiment and learn the limits.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow some really helpful insight here guys!  I did do a visual check of the cutting strip and It looks ok for now.  I also read that 60 degree blade could help on intricate cuts.  I just ordered some new Roland Blades, which I thought would be top of the line.  How do they compare to the Clean Cut Blades?  @ Wilson thanks for sharing some real world images.  That logo looks feasible.  I think it seems to really boil down to the font I had more success than others depending on what I was cutting. 

One question I didnt see get answered is the red horizontal slot on the face of the SC2 is that in fact intended to be a channel to cut off your vinyl after the job is complete or no? Kinda looks like it but nothing in the manual stating so.  I think I just saw someone trim it in a video this way and assumed thats its intended purpose.

Also do I need anything more than the Sisser HTV to do the shirt? Beyond a press and a teflon sheet?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's all you need to get started. Heat press pillows are nice to have around as well. They let you press stuff that may have thick seams or buttons on the garment that prevent the press from a good even press.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/16/2020 at 8:59 AM, MDesigns said:

...

One question I didnt see get answered is the red horizontal slot on the face of the SC2 is that in fact intended to be a channel to cut off your vinyl after the job is complete or no? Kinda looks like it but nothing in the manual stating so.  I think I just saw someone trim it in a video this way and assumed thats its intended purpose

....

So the trough is just a trough, and you can choose to use it as a means to cut your vinyl with. I personally put a long strip of painters tape over because when the edge of the vinyl would get to that length, it would get caught int he trough and tent up. So I taped over it and just use a scissors or sliding letter opener. I'm not sure what other people do.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do mostly shirts these days. For a beginner I expect you'll be keeping the budget low. You can just use some Parchment paper like you bake cookies with for a cover sheet. It's cheap and easy to get more about any store. You can get hundreds of press cycles before it starts to brown and nothing, NOTHING seems to stick to that stuff. If the budget allows, a teflon cover over at least your lower platen is nice. It lets you slide your shirts around much easier on the press. I now run an upper platen cover as well but didn't for many years. If you do run a top cover you can skip the cover sheet and just press things without too much worry. I do add a couple seconds to my dwell time to compensate for the teflon. 

You will also benefit from some sort of see-through craft ruler or other alignment tool. You will be finding the center of your shirt (possibly making a crease) and then using the ruler to get consistent offset from center and distance down from the neck. I do so many now that I bought a fancy laser tool from Hotronix but it was several hundred bucks. I do a lot of sports uniforms that all have to be laid out the same spacing and could not live without the laser thing so it's been a good investment. 

For press pillows you can also get by with a mouse pad or two stacked up to get a left chest on a polo with buttons etc... I bought a 12x14 press pillow that I have worn out the foam in three times. I just buy 1" thick foam at the fabric store and re-stuff it when it goes flat. If you are handy you can make your own with some teflon, foam and a sewing machine. 

HTV is a great hobby and can turn into a good source of revenue if that's what you want. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now