yusia

Need advice what to buy to cut mylar

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Hello, this is my first time on this forum and I don`t have much cutting experience (except for my Silhouette machine).

I am looking for a machine that is able to cut mylar (7 mil) for re-usable craft stencils - I am planning to start a stencil line, so I need clean cuts and the ability to cut a lot.

I just got off the line with the customer support - they didn't know what mylar is and said that I probably shouldn't buy a machine that doesn't work with the material they carry.

I also searched the forum but got even more confused - it looked that many people struggle with mylar. 

Can anyone help me with this question? My budget is up to $1000, but no more...

Thank you.

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If it is regular Mylar you will need a carrier mat. You can not cut all the way through anything without destroying the cutting strip.

Trying to get the Mylar off a cutting mat may also destroy the stencil.

 

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2 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Titan 2 should work.  Under $1000, and 750grm force.   Many times people make 2 or 3 cuts over to get thru thick substrates  For Windows or Mac.

https://www.uscutter.com/TITAN-2-Vinyl-Cutter-28-53-68-inch

Prism Cut also with 800 grm force  under $1000.

https://www.uscutter.com/P28-PrismCut-Vinyl-Cutter-with-WiFi-Design-Cut-Software

Thank you - will look into that!

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2 hours ago, bikemike said:

If it is regular Mylar you will need a carrier mat. You can not cut all the way through anything without destroying the cutting strip.

Trying to get the Mylar off a cutting mat may also destroy the stencil.

 

Is a carrier mat something that I need to buy, or is it just a piece of sturdy plastic? I will still need some adhesive on it, right?

 

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I sometimes cut up the clear silicone backing that comes on Gerber 225 vinyl and use it as a stencil. I don't know the thickness but it's less than 7 mil I think. When I do it I take some app tape and apply it to the backside of the clear backing (because the front side is what the vinyl was on and is resistant to adhesives) and use the app tape as my carrier. Sometimes a couple layers if I'm worried. It seems to work pretty good and is a lot easier to get the stencil up off of afterwords. I do like Skeeter suggested and make a couple cuts so I'm not overworking my fine tuned machine and running at full pressure can cause feed distortions especially when you are doing something strange or out-of-the-norm like we are talking about. 

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