Zeppelin1007

Slow down speed lower than 100mm/sec?

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. Was curious if its possible to slow down the cutter to below 100mm/sec? 

If I'm doing some smaller work with high detail, i figure it would be beneficial. Its a 53" wide SC2 with the laser. Great for larger work, but, smaller work pieces i feel like would benefit from a slower feedrate. The accuracy isnt there, cuts are rough and peel up from the vinyl. Larger pieces come out fantastic.

Am I missing something obvious? I know I can set it from the HIM panel on the cutter, but, is there a way to do it in VinylMaster 4LT?
Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't know about the speed, but if you are peeling up the vinyl, you have too much blade exposed out of the blade holder.  A correctly set blade depth, won't peel up the vinyl  Here is how to set it correctly. 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey MZ Skeeter, 

 

I'll give that a shot when I get home, thanks. I only notice it though on super tiny stuff though, hence my thought on feedrate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Zeppelin1007 said:

Hey MZ Skeeter, 

 

I'll give that a shot when I get home, thanks. I only notice it though on super tiny stuff though, hence my thought on feedrate.

You also said it is cutting rough.  Too much blade will also do that.  How did you set your blade depth when you set up the machine?   Value cutters are not that great for super tiny stuff. A servo cutter is much better for that. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Only cuts rough on tiny objects. 

I used the credit card suggestion. Where you set the depth of the blade to about half the thickness of the credit card. Worked fine so far, but some 2ft wide with fantastic results. Bunch of 12" wide heat transfer sheets. But a buddy wants to run some 2"x2" logos and I know darn well its hit or miss for me. 

Best test file: trying to cut a troll face in a 2" x 2" area

  • Sad 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is way incorrect, and about 10 times too much blade exposed.  This is posted on the forum to help.  Guess you didn't read it. 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could also try a 60 degree blade for fine detail but follow Skeeter's directions for setting the blade

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Using a Clean Cut blade, or a new blade couldn't hurt either. I would also encourage you to check for any debris in the blade holder, and check the condition of the cutting strip. The cutting strip should be fairly self-healing, but if you cut into it, honestly, it's never the same. When I start to get a perforated effect on my cuts, I know it's time to look at the blade, blade holder, and cutting strip.

 

Good luck, and please keep us updated.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heat transfer will trick you too. It's carrier is really tough and hardly ever possible to cut through so you get all set or so you think then switch over to adhesive vinyl and wham. Start on adhesive vinyl, follow the instructions on the blade depth, it makes so much difference yet no one believes it for some reason. Once you get set for adhesive the heat transfer is basically the same I rarely need to adjust if cutting Siser. Some other brands are thicker and require more blade and a touch more down force but not much. A good quality blade like the Clean Cut blades are very helpful. They are much harder steel and are able to be sharpened well beyond the cheap ones and if you don't abuse them by cutting though the backing they will last 6 months or a year. I usually change them out after about 6-8 months and save the old ones for things I know will be hard on blades like glitter HTV. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now