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ramvinyl

vinyl not sticking to truck...help!!!

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I worked for hours today, trying to get a truck done.  It was not in the cards to happen.  I used the wet method with rapid tac, because it is 8 feet long.  The truck had rivets (small ones).  I applied, and wiped and applied and wiped...waited and peeled mask.  The lettering would not stick to the aluminum panel truck, expecially the rivet areas.  I wasted a lot of vinyl.  I mainly do it dry with help and it's ok.  But something was up with the tac fluid, the lettering would not stick to anything.  I was using Oracle 651 vinyl, and also tried some intermediate 3 mil from fellers, but it would not stick.  I wasted so much money and time.

Any ideas, what the hell happened?  This has never happened before.

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Guest fivestar

First off did you make sure the vehicle was clean, as in no wax or dirt or dusk on it?  Also I would of used cast vinyl on it, not that it would of helped with it sticking but especially over rivets.  The wet solution, was it bought or was it a "home brew"?  That's why I prefer straight water, when I tried home brew solution I couldn't get it to stick worth a darn either.

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Store bought Rapid Tac, I did wash the truck myself and wipe it down.  The side did not feel wax smooth, but I wiped it down with the tac solution anyhow, as I normally do.  It was step by step, text book...it just wouldn't stick.  How do you use plain water, the same way?

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Do a test with a scrap dry. Not sticking means the surface is not clean. If the vinyl sticks good, then try it wet with a mix of water and a touch of liquid soap. This simple method has worked for over 20 years.

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Just a very small aount of soap. Talking drops to a quart. I've lettered 53' trailers dry, if nothing works, give it a try.

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Guest fivestar

Store bought Rapid Tac, I did wash the truck myself and wipe it down.  The side did not feel wax smooth, but I wiped it down with the tac solution anyhow, as I normally do.  It was step by step, text book...it just wouldn't stick.   How do you use plain water, the same way?

Sorry I didn't see this reply, yes I use straight water the same way you would use rapid tac.

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Guest Terry

did you use clear transfer tape? how cold was it? Fluid goes under rivets, need torch or heat gun. The only way wet won't work is if you don't get fluid out or if you use clear tape, or your transfer tape brand won't allow fluid to escape. Hope you bought the correct Rapid Tac, they make different ones for release, glue, temperature etc....

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Guest Terry

One other thought... is the aluminum painted? if not aluminum has ridges in it and will trap fluid under the vinyl, unless it is polished. if not aluminum oxidizes with water and should only be applied dry.

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It is R-tape conform, a paper tape, I used it plenty of times.  The aluminum is painted and I cleaned it twice.  I think now that you said it the fluiid got under the rivets.  The heat gun didn't work, the fluid must have gotten stuck under the vinyl.  Oh to mention the worse piece was a large slab of vinyl 20"x20" over many rivets and a seem in the wall.  But them again the smaller letters on smooth areas also didn't stick.  I have to finish this project this weekend and something this large I dread doing it dry!

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when i have had that problem the surface was'nt clean....even tho i thought it was!solved the problem by wiping whole surface with straight rubbing alcohol.than the lettering stuck.just a thought...it worked for me.

cjb

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OK, now we know it's a painted surface being applied to and the largest graphic is 20x20". clean the surface with prepsol and apply the vinyl dry the old scool way.

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easy to say,not so easy to do for an amateur. I've been at it a long time and I Never do dry. No point in taking a chance.A customer will see the one bubble you miss.

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I'm going to cut extra material, dry works I know.  But I need to work out the kinks in the problem.

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easy to say,not so easy to do for an amateur. I've been at it a long time and I Never do dry. No point in taking a chance.A customer will see the one bubble you miss.

Your right, but even applying wet takes practice. I guess we learned differently. Either way I think you'll agree that patience is most important. I Stll say clean the surface with prepsol. It's safer to use than paint thinners and such.

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Guest Terry

Yup, it's a wax and silicone remover.

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IT's done!  But the pain was a lost of Sunday.  Here's what I found:

Dry install:  It worked, a few air bubbles that were a pain to remove.  But adhesion to surface was very good.

Wet install: I used straight water mist, but not near rivets or truck seams.  It worked good, but a little bit of the graphics did float around.  I believe there can be a good amount of wetness and too much wetness.  Where there was too much, the vinyl seemed to float.

BTW - the rear of the truck was a different material, I believe a wood door or fiberglas.  Either wet or dry didn't make a difference, the installation went quicker and better there.  Hey, it's done now!  :angel:

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on a nice smmoth surface, wet seems to work better. Congrats on getting it done.

For removing bubbles in dry, I use a very tiny sewing needle and just punch a small hole.

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Guest fivestar

I'm glad you got it done and glad the straight water worked for you.  Like I said earlier, that's all I use.  The "floating around" would of been gone by the time you was finished with the vehilce or it should of been very close.  :angel:

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You'll get the hang of it. It takes practice to lay down vinyl with no bubbles, initial or post install, wet or dry.

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