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Sorry to be a total pain, but there really is NO INFO about this machine...

I have some questions as to where to place the sheets, how far fwd they should be fed...so many problems because I think I was used to that "craft" machine and now reality has set in that I need to actually KNOW how to use this one to get it to print correctly, yet I can't read anything really to figure it out. It's trial and error with a ton of wasted vinyl. 

I got it to make some nice cuts with Sure Cuts A Lot, using the WYSIWYG mode and a "fake" mat size of 15"x12". This way I can kind of center the image up and it seems to do ok. When it gets to the bottom of the vinyl, it isn't held by the 2 rollers anymore and the blade grabs it. I also found I had to slow it WAY down and adjust the force. The default setting seems to be too fast and too much pressure for smaller intricate designs. Does anyone use sheets to cut with this machine? I'm scouring YouTube to try and research but I'm not having a lot of luck with the smaller one. Thanks AGAIN! 

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There are user manuals on the UScutter website for any machine sold, plus other info.   You only need the vinyl just past the cutting strip.

Loose the word "printer,"  it is not a printer.   I would not use WYSIWYG .  Put the blade in the lower right hand corner and hit ORIGIN or what ever it is called on the Titan. I never use sheets for anything.  Cut it off the roll.  But a little trick, on sheets or scrap vinyl. Tape another piece of vinyl to it, on the bottom side. just so it has room for the pinch rollers at the end.. I do it all the time with scrap vinyl 

https://support.uscutter.com/support/solutions/folders/14000106614

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Thanks Skeeter...yeah, "print" is a habit. Thanks for the tips. I read the manuals...but wasn't finding exactly what I need. I think I will also try a carrier sheet for the smaller pieces and 1/2 sheets. Hoping I don't have to re-adjust things too much when I do. 

I am just trying to use up all the vinyl I bought for the Cricut...didn't want it to go to waste, but you can bet I'll be buying rolls from now on. 

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You have to set your blade correctly, from the very start.. That determines your force.   It has been posted hundreds of times. That cutter should have a TEST feature.   Your welcome. 

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32 minutes ago, MZ SKEETER said:

You have to set your blade correctly, from the very start.. That determines your force.   It has been posted hundreds of times. That cutter should have a TEST feature.   Your welcome. 

Blade was set per instructions. Finally finished up 1 of an order of 12. 

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I solved a lot of the "wrinkling" issue when cutting by taping up the holes that were not being used which in turn caused more suction to the vinyl. No different than using bigger material that covers them all right? I can just remove it when my new stuff arrives. I also slowed the speed down to 96mm/s and left the force @ 96 since I knew my blade was set properly. Cut a few designs now without incident using the 30* blade also...that made a difference too. Just thought I would share that with people that may be having trouble. 

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There is definitely a learning curve and you may actually have some preconceived thought processes that are steering you wrong going from a craft machine to a real cutter. As to designing, I see in your pic that the script fonts were not "welded" together causing a little gap where the blade cut each letter fully out. You'll get it all figured out. I never was that happy with SCALP as a design program and the cutting mat size issue as a cutting tool is sort of a SCALP thing. I don't think the rest of the cutting world does it that way. I bought a BETA version of SCALP and tried it out but was not impressed and went back to SignCut Pro which is mac compatible. 

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1 minute ago, Wildgoose said:

There is definitely a learning curve and you may actually have some preconceived thought processes that are steering you wrong going from a craft machine to a real cutter. As to designing, I see in your pic that the script fonts were not "welded" together causing a little gap where the blade cut each letter fully out. You'll get it all figured out. I never was that happy with SCALP as a design program and the cutting mat size issue as a cutting tool is sort of a SCALP thing. I don't think the rest of the cutting world does it that way. I bought a BETA version of SCALP and tried it out but was not impressed and went back to SignCut Pro which is mac compatible. 

I'm taking a few hrs each day to learn the machine. I also bought a bunch of spare blades and a few other blade holders to make it easier switching between materials. I also bought a few rolls of Oracal 651 and Siser Easyweed so I don't have to use these sheets any longer. I'm going to check out SignCut Pro...thanks. Appreciate the help. I checked off that "weld" box on/off 4-5 times...it cut the same every time. Merge did some weird stuff with the cuts as well. 

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I know some think it's obsolete, but Sign Blazer Elements, which is also free, will get the job done! So far there hasn't been a project that I've done, that I couldn't do it with SBE.

You'll find  your footing, then become an old pro!

 

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2 hours ago, haumana said:

I know some think it's obsolete, but Sign Blazer Elements, which is also free, will get the job done! So far there hasn't been a project that I've done, that I couldn't do it with SBE.

You'll find  your footing, then become an old pro!

 

That's good to know...I'm 1/2 way there...I'm already old! lol!

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4 hours ago, StayHungryFL said:

I'm taking a few hrs each day to learn the machine. I also bought a bunch of spare blades and a few other blade holders to make it easier switching between materials. I also bought a few rolls of Oracal 651 and Siser Easyweed so I don't have to use these sheets any longer. I'm going to check out SignCut Pro...thanks. Appreciate the help. I checked off that "weld" box on/off 4-5 times...it cut the same every time. Merge did some weird stuff with the cuts as well. 

Welding will be something you select and do typically. It may do weird things depending on the program and situation. What you are trying t do is create a single object out of the text where they overlap. HTV you got away with it but it will be a ruined design in sign vinyl. 

SignCut Pro 1 (what I use) is not a design program. Just a cutting utility. It is built to use in conjunction with a full on design program like Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape (free open source) and I think Corel (pretty much windows only unless you find an old version). If you are considering a change from your current set-up I would download Inkscape for free and maybe try some free trials before you drop $$$ on one. AI is a brute to learn but is the program that all the others compare to and most of your full on graphic designers use it. There are other options out there but not many that are straight away mac friendly. SignCut for the cutting is both mac AND pc compatible so you can run it on either one. I actually cut from a pc laptop but design on an iMac. If my laptop does the blue screen (why would I think that might happen?:rolleyes:) I can wheel my cutter over and hook it up to my iMac and keep cutting. 

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The weld thing is usually done in the design software. Depending on the program, you may have to convert the text to curves before welding.

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Weld, Merge, Union are terms you might encounter for the same thing.  Inkscape is a fine vector program for using with cutters.  It lacks cmyk and spot color support, so doesn't do the commercial rounds as much.

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Feeling like an idiot now. I am actually pretty good with AI...I've been using it since version 2...I didn't even THINK to design in there and import. Great helpful tips everyone...thank you!

Scott

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Scott, if your machine has a pen tool you can reduce the amount of wasted vinyl by drawing out your design first.

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1 minute ago, Cal said:

Scott, if your machine has a pen tool you can reduce the amount of wasted vinyl by drawing out your design first.

Another great idea Cal...just on paper? Never used the pen...but I noticed in SCAL how I can see the cuts now without colors in the way and I feel like I've come a little further with at least my logo... I got rid of the double cuts that were going through the vinyl. That was most of my issues...even though the blade was set what I feel is properly. I can use the holder on scrap, draw a circle and it only cuts through the vinyl layer. When I cut my logo now, it doesn't go through anything. :)

Screenshot 2018-05-12 08.10.28.png

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You're already leaps and bounds farther then when you started this thread! I definitely welcome a fellow AI user as well. You should be able to design in AI and just use SCALP as a cutting tool. There is a lengthy tutorial I put together in the AI section that may help you with some of the cutter specific settings.

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23 hours ago, StayHungryFL said:

Another great idea Cal...just on paper?

 

Yep, just on paper.  I will throw this out there for you too.  Using the knife you likely have some degree of overcut set to allow the knife to complete the cut in the corners.  The pen tool overcut would properly be set to 0* or the corners will look a bit funky.  I just live with the funkiness rather than switching back and too.

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