Michie 0 Posted November 28, 2017 Hello everyone I'm using a graptec CE6000 and I'm cutting quite heavy film, when the blade cuts up the grain it's trapping the film, how can I train the blade to cut down and not up, when it goes down I have no problem. I'm using AI CS and cutting master 3. Any help would be very much appreciated Thanks Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted November 28, 2017 what does that mean "trapping the film"? Please explain. How did you set your blade depth? If the vinyl is too thick, try making 2 passes instead of 1 pass. You don't state what type of vinyl your trying to cut, but maybe you purchased the wrong machine.. The Graphtec FC has a lot more down force than the CE6000. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michie 0 Posted November 28, 2017 Hi MZ, I'm using car paint protection film, it cuts fine but it probably is a bit to thick 210mils. The problem is not the machine cutting it its when the blade cuts up its pulling the film up and then it gets trapped in the cutting head. So for example I'm cutting a square I need the vertical lines to cut from top to bottom not bottom to top and that would stop it getting trapped. I can't find anyway to specify where the blade should start cutting from it does what it thinks is best. Thanks in advance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted November 29, 2017 No mention of which degree blade you are using,, Vinyl cutters start cutting where the design was created at first. Looking at a few youtube videos, the companies are using Graphtec FC vinyl cutters with no problems at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michie 0 Posted November 29, 2017 CB15U, the designs I have done are in AI and they are not following where I start. For example if I was to use the square tool where would it start then ? Thanks again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted November 29, 2017 Reading on a tint and PPF forum. Tint dude. they are using 45 degree and 60 degree blades for PPF . 25-30 degree for tint. No mention how thick. "I use 60 degree blades for ppf and 25 for tint. Check out the guys at clean cut blades. They are extremely helpful and their blades are the best. I'm still on my first blade for tint after a year! Also, get yourself a couple extra blade holders for each blade that way you don't have to keep adjusting your blade height every time." "I have always used a 60° blade, but when it failed I only had a 45° on hand. Now I like the 45° better now." PPF Distributing. "for years we used a 60 degree and we cut around 40+ per day. Played around with a 45 degree last year and haven't turned back. Cuts smoother and more effectively. Buy a good blade as it will last you rather than trying to save $5-10 per blade and having it last a couple months. getting a separate blade holder is also a smart idea. That way you don't have to keep changing the depth and you can have separate plotters conditions for the different materials you need to cut." 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michie 0 Posted November 29, 2017 thanks for your help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted November 29, 2017 5 minutes ago, Michie said: thanks for your help Your welcome. Hope you get it figured out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wildgoose 4,200 Posted November 29, 2017 You are new and there's no shame in that. As mentioned, and maybe you didn't quite understand, cutters start at what they consider the starting point on any given object and cut along the line all the way to the end which should be back to the starting point. It is possible to design something with broken apart lines but it will cut poorly IMO as well as being a lot of extra work. You have some sort of set-up issue. With new operators it's quite common. It would be better if you were using regular vinyl to start out with just so you can eliminate some possible additional issues from the vinyl thickness. My guess is you have too much blade out or your blade is not built to cut that thick. Either one will give you some of the symptoms you are describing. If you search Skeeters comments she has posted the proper way to set blade depth about a thousand times throughout the forum. Follow her instructions (I'll not repost them because I am already typing too much) Your blade holder should almost be touching the vinyl as it is cutting. So close that you can barely see light between the two when down at eye level. If you have a bigger gap then that could be all or part of your issue. Second possible is check what the max thickness your blade is rated for. If you are above that then you will need a thick materials blade (60deg) If the sharpened edge of the blade does not extend above the top of your vinyl you will have problems. Here is a little help from Roland on blade knowledge:Good pamphlet and all blades are pretty much the same design concepts. ra_cutter blade knowledge.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jburns 239 Posted November 29, 2017 you mention above the material is 210mils thick - is that really correct? I know guys that cut sandblast use: 1.CB15U blade - you have that - slow speed, sometimes multiple cuts on the same design 2. FC series 3. place two tables on either side of the plotter, so the material can slide on a flat surface- - if it really is 210mils, that can be very heavy for that machine to lift vertically IMO> Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mb20music 760 Posted November 29, 2017 Yeah there is no way it can be 210mil thick, that would be about 5mm or about 1/4" thick. Most PPF is only about 8 mil which is about twice the thickness of sign vinyl... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites