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RichB

SC Overcutting

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This is probably a newbie thing, but I thought I'd ask before I go nuts. I have a small design that a cut a ton of. The first cut is always perfect. The rest have a 1/4" overcut at the top which leaves a sliver with a 1/32" offset. It wouldn't be a big deal if I were only doing a couple as I'd fix it with a razor knife and move on, but I need to cut 50 at a time. Any thoughts on how to fix this?

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I've been messing with this all weekend. If I take the blade offset to zero it cuts the part of the decal I've been having trouble with perfectly, but doesn't cut other portions of the image completely. I still can't figure out what the first cut is perfect and the rest have an issue. 

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Never owned an SC. Does that machine let you set any of the parameters directly on the machine like speed, downforce or offset or are they all done through the cutting software? 

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Start with making sure the blade depth is correct, This is the correct way to set your blade depth. 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely  see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. 

Run the speed slow until you get it figured out. 

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12 hours ago, Wildgoose said:

Never owned an SC. Does that machine let you set any of the parameters directly on the machine like speed, downforce or offset or are they all done through the cutting software? 

As far as I can tell everything is set in vinylmaster. 

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12 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Start with making sure the blade depth is correct, This is the correct way to set your blade depth. 

To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely  see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. 

Run the speed slow until you get it figured out. 

The machine cuts fine, but what I'm finding is that that beginning and end of the cut don't meet. they over shoot leaving a sliver of material that needs to be cut manually.  

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So how much blade IS sticking out of the blade holder?  You should just barely see the tip..and feel the tip. Also make sure the blade tip is not broken off. 

what is your blade offset at?   start at .025mm   Show some photos to help.   Pictures can tell a lot to help you.  

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So does VM let you set over cut as well as blade offset? You should adjust the sharpness of square corners with blade offset not connect the start and end of cuts. Most important is the blade depth as noted my Skeeter. If that's not right or if you broke a tip then all the rest is just a waste of time. Follow her instructions to the letter and then set your blade offset until it's cutting perfect corners. Don't know if VM gives you a test cut to set the offset but if not draw a small 1/2" box and cut it repeatedly until you can see the corners rounding as well as having tails and then use the number in the middle. You sometimes need to do this again as you get blade wear. 

Blade overcut (if you have that adjustment) is typically about the same number as the offset/ What you are dealing with is the distance from the center of the blade out to the tip which trails slightly like a castor wheel on a shopping cart. That is how the blade makes corners when you are cutting. The machine drags the tip around the corners. Sometimes you have to add the overcut in order for the end point to reach the start. I have rarely used much if any but some machines seem to need it. 

Attached is a cutting blade guide from Roland. It has some handy info that may help you or some other newbie that comes along having similar issues. 

ra_cutter blade knowledge.pdf

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I fought this forever too!  Check your calibration on your printer and software.  Either cut a 1”x1” square or a 10”x10” square and then actually measure what gets cut out.  My 1x1 was .96x.97”...found out during a large batch of reflective rectangles that got cut undersized

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On 10/27/2017 at 8:05 PM, MrJoel said:

I fought this forever too!  Check your calibration on your printer and software.  Either cut a 1”x1” square or a 10”x10” square and then actually measure what gets cut out.  My 1x1 was .96x.97”...found out during a large batch of reflective rectangles that got cut undersized

Checked it and it was a bit off so I recalibrated. Still not right, but the sizes are correct now. Thanks!

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On 10/25/2017 at 9:20 AM, Wildgoose said:

So does VM let you set over cut as well as blade offset? You should adjust the sharpness of square corners with blade offset not connect the start and end of cuts. Most important is the blade depth as noted my Skeeter. If that's not right or if you broke a tip then all the rest is just a waste of time. Follow her instructions to the letter and then set your blade offset until it's cutting perfect corners. Don't know if VM gives you a test cut to set the offset but if not draw a small 1/2" box and cut it repeatedly until you can see the corners rounding as well as having tails and then use the number in the middle. You sometimes need to do this again as you get blade wear. 

Blade overcut (if you have that adjustment) is typically about the same number as the offset/ What you are dealing with is the distance from the center of the blade out to the tip which trails slightly like a castor wheel on a shopping cart. That is how the blade makes corners when you are cutting. The machine drags the tip around the corners. Sometimes you have to add the overcut in order for the end point to reach the start. I have rarely used much if any but some machines seem to need it. 

Attached is a cutting blade guide from Roland. It has some handy info that may help you or some other newbie that comes along having similar issues. 

ra_cutter blade knowledge.pdf

I worked with the calibration and reset the overcut. I believe that this is more of an issue with the image than the cutter. None of my other images have this problem. 

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