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GraphxNMore

WTH am I doing wrong???

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Have a customer wanting 12X24 coroplast  signs. They want a 1" border all the way around, 1/2" inside the edge. First one went on without a hitch, now I've blown though at least SEVEN consecutive border pieces. I have app tape secured with no bubbles, get everything aligned (which is an ordeal in itself), then start on one side and start applying. When I get to the end, I am sure to help it pull away from the liner so it won't wrinkle underneath itself, then it happens. There's a wrinkle, bubble or something that causes excess slack on one side or the other. I'm about at wit's end with this thing. Any ideas??

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I watched a video one time that showed a special built working table that has an inset for the coro to set down into with very little gap around the edges. This created a flat surface to work on and the app tape was actually hinged out on the upper table so they weren't fighting the coro thickness or having it want to slide around on them. I never got into a large order of signs but always planned to build myself a similar set up if I got a large coro sign order.

I pretty much do shirts now, they are much easier. LOL

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when I have a bunch to do I put new app tape on a newman roller frame (for screen printing) and use that - easy to line up and get lots our of one set of app tape - actually first couple are a little too sticky but works great  

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make sure you are starting from the middle and working out.  Don't start at one corner and work all the way across.  also make sure the app tape is the size of the sign.  Don't cut out the middle!!  That helps keep it all lined up and square.  Also when squeegeing, start out from middle to edge very lightly..... just enough pressure to get it lay down some so you don't get all the water out and set it.  Once you lightly go all the way around and are happy with it start applying pressure.  By going very lightly, if your not happy you can easily lift and redo and will cut down on creases and wrinkles.  You just have to take your time.... you just can't blow through those!

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I have not done coroplast, but I have done a bunch of signs (Metal) and mirrors.  I would (I think) approach coroplast the same way.

I use a large cardboard type of cutting mat, similar to this: http://www.uscutter.com/Self-Healing-Cutting-Mat

I use this just to lay my project on and center things up with the grid.  When I do my stencil, I place registration marks at the outside centers.  

When I apply the application tape, I make it long on one end that I make the "top end".  Then I use parchment paper and hinge it like 'goose has shown in the past.

This allows me to lay the vinyl down on the project, center it up with the grids and when I have it placed I then secure it with the long end of application tape.  The rest is as shown in 'goose's video.  Works good for me.

Now, for coroplast I might investigate getting a piece of plexiglass the same or close to the same thickness.  Just a piece 3-4" wide and a couple inches wider than the coroplast.  I would tape this to the cutting mata so that the coro was centered where needed and use this both as a "stop" for the coro and as a leveling tool to fasten the application tape to.

I hope this all makes sense.

Cal

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The little bubbles might settle down after they air overnight.  The big bubbles one can poke a hole in to let the air escape.  Squeegee the hell out of it.  Xpaperman says to go from the middle out.  This is while squeegeeing the transfer tape.  I've never done coroplast wet, so not sure there.  Pull up the transfer tape on the same plane as the coroplast, not straight up,  ↔ not ↑.

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