amaterasu

Editing artboards in illustrator for cutting

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Just now, MZ SKEETER said:

I hope your work in Norway is worth $100 + to get your money back.

It is and I would buy it right now as we speak but I can't afford it

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20 hours ago, amaterasu said:

If I can design with AI and use any other program to cut it is fine, I just dont want to lose AI as my designing program. I Downloaded a trial of Signcut, There are many options I dont understand but Im currently watching some tutorial on youtube. It looks promising

You will be totally fine with any cutting software you have or get as far as AI goes. I assume from that statement that you already know your way around AI so you can export files that will satisfy any of the cutting programs that exist. From my research, AI 8 is the most common go-to file type and version. A few programs even use AI version 3. From what I can figure out the reason they like the older version has at least in part to do with some of the art board options of the newer versions.

SCALPS seems to be able to accept newer AI files (I run CS5) natively without down-saving them to older versions which is interesting. When I had my copy of SCALP however it had issues with separating colors when I brought them into the program to cut by color but there have been many revisions since my beta version so I assume that has been handled. Primal Decals is a good source for detailed use info on SCALPS here on the forum. I believe they have a users forum on the craft edge website but don't know what kind of traffic it gets. 

VM will accept AI 8 files as will Flexi. There are other formats that most of those programs (if not ALL) will also accept such as SVG and EPS. So as far as your comment about not loosing AI as your design program of choice you are absolutely safe. As far as ending up with a solution you LIKE to use as your cutting program that will have to depend on your own preferences. Personally I suggest sticking with whichever program you got with your cutter (assuming it cam with SOMETHING) even if you don't love it. It sounds like your area of the world is expensive so there is no reason to go nuts spending even more $$ for something different at the early stages. 

My workflow is I design my files on a mac in AI CS5 and then save them to AI 8 and stick them on a thumb drive. I then take that to a windows laptop that I have in another part of the room and open that file with SignCut Pro 1 and cut it. You could do that exact same work flow with SCALPS, VM , Flexi, ArtCut, Signblazer, MacSign, Winplot, etc.. (all of these are cutting software) albeit you might have to make a slight adjustment to which file format you take to them. The point is it isn't necessarily important to have a plug-in and send to the cutter directly from within AI. They will all import and cut a file you built elsewhere. 

Hoping you can get your connection figured out and be able to get cutting. My first cutter was a Creation P-Cut and everyone told me to get a tripplite keyspan adapter but I never did. Just made do with the factory usb crappy chipset and it worked for a couple years until I upgraded but there were definite limitations that MAY have been less had I went the other route. I don't know anything about the Redsail cutters. MH cutters which have been compared here in your thread will not cut from a mac and I don't know if I have read what computer you are running. Best regards! 

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On ‎19‎.‎03‎.‎2017 at 4:19 PM, Wildgoose said:

You will be totally fine with any cutting software you have or get as far as AI goes. I assume from that statement that you already know your way around AI so you can export files that will satisfy any of the cutting programs that exist. From my research, AI 8 is the most common go-to file type and version. A few programs even use AI version 3. From what I can figure out the reason they like the older version has at least in part to do with some of the art board options of the newer versions.

SCALPS seems to be able to accept newer AI files (I run CS5) natively without down-saving them to older versions which is interesting. When I had my copy of SCALP however it had issues with separating colors when I brought them into the program to cut by color but there have been many revisions since my beta version so I assume that has been handled. Primal Decals is a good source for detailed use info on SCALPS here on the forum. I believe they have a users forum on the craft edge website but don't know what kind of traffic it gets. 

VM will accept AI 8 files as will Flexi. There are other formats that most of those programs (if not ALL) will also accept such as SVG and EPS. So as far as your comment about not loosing AI as your design program of choice you are absolutely safe. As far as ending up with a solution you LIKE to use as your cutting program that will have to depend on your own preferences. Personally I suggest sticking with whichever program you got with your cutter (assuming it cam with SOMETHING) even if you don't love it. It sounds like your area of the world is expensive so there is no reason to go nuts spending even more $$ for something different at the early stages. 

My workflow is I design my files on a mac in AI CS5 and then save them to AI 8 and stick them on a thumb drive. I then take that to a windows laptop that I have in another part of the room and open that file with SignCut Pro 1 and cut it. You could do that exact same work flow with SCALPS, VM , Flexi, ArtCut, Signblazer, MacSign, Winplot, etc.. (all of these are cutting software) albeit you might have to make a slight adjustment to which file format you take to them. The point is it isn't necessarily important to have a plug-in and send to the cutter directly from within AI. They will all import and cut a file you built elsewhere. 

Hoping you can get your connection figured out and be able to get cutting. My first cutter was a Creation P-Cut and everyone told me to get a tripplite keyspan adapter but I never did. Just made do with the factory usb crappy chipset and it worked for a couple years until I upgraded but there were definite limitations that MAY have been less had I went the other route. I don't know anything about the Redsail cutters. MH cutters which have been compared here in your thread will not cut from a mac and I don't know if I have read what computer you are running. Best regards! 

My Serial to USB cable just arrived. Not triple key that I recently ordered but a standard one. On the instruction manual its written that it uses a PL2303 chipset so I downloaded drivers for the adapter and installed them. I use a MacBook pro but have windows installed aswell. I can't get signcut pro to read my cutter. It is not listed under Output / Device port

 

I logged out of parallels and ran Windows through bootcamp. Now I have com port 3 listed under output (Device) but there are no communication With the cutter and the computer

 

 

 

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If you are using a mac, AI  and SIgnCut there should be no reason to run through parallels. SignCut Pro has live free tech support. They have helped me out a couple times in the past. 

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42 minutes ago, Wildgoose said:

If you are using a mac, AI  and SIgnCut there should be no reason to run through parallels. SignCut Pro has live free tech support. They have helped me out a couple times in the past. 

I think the cutter is bad, Ive contacted the store I bought it from several times but they never answer.  I just managed to talk to customer support. They told me that the cutter will only work with a serial to usb cable that uses FTDI chipset. Mine has a prolific chipset. Do you know if the Trip Key I ordered uses an FTDI chipset?

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I don't. Not my area of strength. I don't know if you can get a refund but you would be much better off sending it back and buying through USCutter. If you go that route avoid the MH cutter as it is not compatible with mac. I wonder if your cutter is mac compatible.

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Wait for the Tripp lite Keyspan Adapter to connect.your cutter and Mac...This is what we advised from the git go...Any ol' USB to serial cable  was NOT going to work..Only Tripp Lite and a Belkin cable will work with a vinyl cutter.;  It is proven.....

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Even if you can get that   PL2303 chipset  connected, it will be very hit or miss on connection.with a flaky connection.. It is just as bad as the flaky chipset that is already in that vinyl cutter, REDSAIL series bottom of the barrel cutters...

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35 minutes ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Wait for the Tripp lite Keyspan Adapter to connect.your cutter and Mac...This is what we advised from the git go...Any ol' USB to serial cable  was NOT going to work..Only Tripp Lite and a Belkin cable will work with a vinyl cutter.;  It is proven.....

But are you sure it will work with that adapter? The guy I talked to on the phone said it has to be an FTDI chipset. I emailed tripplite and they told me that the keyspan adapter uses Texas Instrument chipset. Do I need to order another adapter?

23 minutes ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Even if you can get that   PL2303 chipset  connected, it will be very hit or miss on connection.with a flaky connection.. It is just as bad as the flaky chipset that is already in that vinyl cutter, REDSAIL series bottom of the barrel cutters...

Could you care to explain what it means that the cutter has a flaky chipset? If I use the keyspan adapter, does it mean that the chipset in the adapter will be used instead of the one installed on the cutter?

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Do some research on the forum  and look up Tripp Lite Keyspan adapter, in the upper right corner.Or Google...Your cutter is at the bottom, just like the MH series cutters,, or other value cutters that UScutter would sell.. Many people starting out, try and use the USB cable, as most don't have a serial connection on their computers any more. USB works great for some people and horrible for others. They are running from the flaky chip set from that cutter...  They will be cutting and the carriage head will just drift off to the side and quit,  So their vinyl is just wasted then,  They try it over and over,,,  Then they see USB to serial cable, will help,  So they run out to Radio Shack,  Best Buy and other electronic stores and pick up any..usb to serial cable and hook it up,,, They can't even get a connection with it,  then come back to the forum  for help.   Time after time,,..Even after we told them to get the Tripp Lite,  they want to go cheap..  So back to ordering a Tripp lite,   Problem fixed...We have  been on here for years and years, and have seen the same problems over and over again,, hundreds of times..Those value cutters are all made with pretty much the same technology... We can only offer you advise from all of the fixed problems that we have seen over the years...It is up to you whether you want to take that advise, or keep beating your head against the wall.   Also look up Redsail on here,,  There have been some resent users with problems with their Redsail cutters.  

What I mean by flaky is a horrible connection,  hit or miss connection,  Those chipsets in those value cutters will just drop connection and your cutter will stop in mid cut  So your order is not completed.  Or they have no control over the data being sent to the cutter and will over flow the memory of the cutter..  The Tripp lite Keyspan Adapter controls the data being sent...  I have a cutter with TRUE USB, have had since 2008,  I never have problems with a connection..  Good luck

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9 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Do some research on the forum  and look up Tripp Lite Keyspan adapter, in the upper right corner.Or Google...Your cutter is at the bottom, just like the MH series cutters,, or other value cutters that UScutter would sell.. Many people starting out, try and use the USB cable, as most don't have a serial connection on their computers any more. USB works great for some people and horrible for others. They are running from the flaky chip set from that cutter...  They will be cutting and the carriage head will just drift off to the side and quit,  So their vinyl is just wasted then,  They try it over and over,,,  Then they see USB to serial cable, will help,  So they run out to Radio Shack,  Best Buy and other electronic stores and pick up any..usb to serial cable and hook it up,,, They can't even get a connection with it,  then come back to the forum  for help.   Time after time,,..Even after we told them to get the Tripp Lite,  they want to go cheap..  So back to ordering a Tripp lite,   Problem fixed...We have  been on here for years and years, and have seen the same problems over and over again,, hundreds of times..Those value cutters are all made with pretty much the same technology... We can only offer you advise from all of the fixed problems that we have seen over the years...It is up to you whether you want to take that advise, or keep beating your head against the wall.   Also look up Redsail on here,,  There have been some resent users with problems with their Redsail cutters.  

I have already ordered the tripp key after you guys recommended me it. I just want to be 100% sure that it will work this time with that cable. I have been delayed enough already, I want to start cutting. 

 

9 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

What I mean by flaky is a horrible connection,  hit or miss connection,  Those chipsets in those value cutters will just drop connection and your cutter will stop in mid cut  So your order is not completed.  Or they have no control over the data being sent to the cutter and will over flow the memory of the cutter..  The Tripp lite Keyspan Adapter controls the data being sent...  I have a cutter with TRUE USB, have had since 2008,  I never have problems with a connection..  Good luck

Is this some sort of miracle adapter then? It sounds like it will transform my Redsail into a Roland or Mimaki :D

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9 minutes ago, amaterasu said:

 

Is this some sort of miracle adapter then? It sounds like it will transform my Redsail into a Roland or Mimaki :D

No you will still have a entry level stepper motor cutter but that and a null model serial cable should get you cutting something at least and not having a large paper weight :)

If it was that easy and cheap to turn a value cutter into a premium unit all of us old timers wouldn't have graphtec and rolands :o

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Ahhh, Good catch Skeeter. Pretty much like the MH then. As far as I know I have not heard of anyone getting an MH to run on a mac even with Parallels so amateurasu you may have some serious issues. I have always wondered if it were possible to get one to run through that loophole or not. I guess we have a guinea pig?

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3 hours ago, MZ SKEETER said:

Doing some research on the Redsail cutters, they are PC only. Just so you know how to set it up. 

 

3 hours ago, Wildgoose said:

Ahhh, Good catch Skeeter. Pretty much like the MH then. As far as I know I have not heard of anyone getting an MH to run on a mac even with Parallels so amateurasu you may have some serious issues. I have always wondered if it were possible to get one to run through that loophole or not. I guess we have a guinea pig?

Even if it is Pc only, there should be no issues running it on an intel mac through bootcamp. Parallels may cause problems but it will work with bootcamp.  If I manage to get it working and business goes well Im going to buy a Mimaki, or Roland print and cut next time but they are so expensive :( Any advise on combining a printer and a cutter to do the same job as a print and cut? Will it work or is it better to just be patient, save the money go for a print and cut?

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6 hours ago, amaterasu said:

 

Even if it is Pc only, there should be no issues running it on an intel mac through bootcamp. Parallels may cause problems but it will work with bootcamp.  If I manage to get it working and business goes well Im going to buy a Mimaki, or Roland print and cut next time but they are so expensive :( Any advise on combining a printer and a cutter to do the same job as a print and cut? Will it work or is it better to just be patient, save the money go for a print and cut?

Hope it works for you. 

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6 hours ago, amaterasu said:

 

Even if it is Pc only, there should be no issues running it on an intel mac through bootcamp. Parallels may cause problems but it will work with bootcamp.  If I manage to get it working and business goes well Im going to buy a Mimaki, or Roland print and cut next time but they are so expensive :( Any advise on combining a printer and a cutter to do the same job as a print and cut? Will it work or is it better to just be patient, save the money go for a print and cut?

that's another subject that has been discussed over and over on here.

I too am a newbie with limited resources and learning as building up my business. later I am also looking to get into a printer. with that being said do a search on here and you find a good link showing a comparison of the roland combo printer/cutter verses having separate printer and cutter. the 2 units out preformed the the combo. but I guess that again is 1 of those things that is whatever the user prefers

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9 hours ago, amaterasu said:

 

Even if it is Pc only, there should be no issues running it on an intel mac through bootcamp. Parallels may cause problems but it will work with bootcamp.  If I manage to get it working and business goes well Im going to buy a Mimaki, or Roland print and cut next time but they are so expensive :( Any advise on combining a printer and a cutter to do the same job as a print and cut? Will it work or is it better to just be patient, save the money go for a print and cut?

the print and cut or separate machines is user preference - I work from home to the space savings on the combo unit works very well in my situation but I also keep a graphtec cutter for all my regular cut vinyl work.   if you are doing huge volumes you  can print one set while cutting another with a different set to work faster.  In my case and experience the roland print and cut finds the registration marks way better  than anything else I have tired and again with not having a large retail space this fits my needs better.  I am one of the few I have heard of that actually  started with a 54" and went back to a 30" for my last 2 units.  it fits what market I cater to and it only takes up 7 ft of floor space compared to over 9 ft the 54" machine took. doesn't sound like much but it made my wife much much happier to move me out of the great room :)  she also didn't like that solvent ink spill from the original printer on the carpet . . . 6 years and I have had 3 printers.  don't forget to budget maint and upgrade cost when you get going

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1 hour ago, Dakotagrafx said:

the print and cut or separate machines is user preference - I work from home to the space savings on the combo unit works very well in my situation but I also keep a graphtec cutter for all my regular cut vinyl work.   if you are doing huge volumes you  can print one set while cutting another with a different set to work faster.  In my case and experience the roland print and cut finds the registration marks way better  than anything else I have tired and again with not having a large retail space this fits my needs better.  I am one of the few I have heard of that actually  started with a 54" and went back to a 30" for my last 2 units.  it fits what market I cater to and it only takes up 7 ft of floor space compared to over 9 ft the 54" machine took. doesn't sound like much but it made my wife much much happier to move me out of the great room :)  she also didn't like that solvent ink spill from the original printer on the carpet . . . 6 years and I have had 3 printers.  don't forget to budget maint and upgrade cost when you get going

I get why you would downgrade the size of your cutter but why would you keep a graphtec cutter if you already have a print and cut? I mean, why would you still do regular cuts? Except for durability, isn't printing far superior to only cutting in every single way? 

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I can speak on the vinyl cutting side..I cut very detailed large designs, that is my niche' and makes me good money.   Those same designs would not show the background colors thru the design, and the great details of the design, if they were printed...  I don't do any printing...  And with cut vinyl the color is all the way thru..   

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