jimm8dmt

8.5 x 11 Heat Transfer Registration Marks

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I've watched the tutorials (http://iifuture.org/vmtuts/getVMTut.php?key=contour_cutting_templates_usc&r=0) several times now and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.  I am using photoshop to create my image, and VinylMaster Cut with a MH365-MK2.  Does the rectangle that is inside the template need to be removed in photoshop, while leaving the registration marks?  How do I calibrate the machine once the heat transfer paper is loaded?

 

This is so frustrating...  Does anyone know the proper steps to go from image, to registration marks, to printing both of them, to loading them in VinylMaster Cut, to aligning the registration marks, to cutting precisely?

 

None of the videos in the help section clearly specify these steps.

 

Thank you so much for your help.  I've spent the past 10 hours trying to make this work....  I give up  

 

futurecorporation

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VinylMaster Cut works the same as Flexi etc. i.e. no need for the a laser pointer - just use the blade and Ultra Marks, here is a lesson:

 

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Thanks for the feedback.  I'll look into larger paper, but I'd at least like to try to get this working with my current setup.  I went through the steps of just doing the manual marks, and can get within an inch of my design, but still, I get mixed results.  Here is another video of another issue.  Apologies to the forum lords for posting multiple issues here.  Do you have any advice for how I should be aligning my origin?  I've tried the nudge to the left until it works approach - which eventually did finally work on my mangled sheet of heat press paper.  Then, I tried replicating the exact steps I took to get it perfectly aligned on a clean print, and of course, it printed to the left again.  It is just not my day or weekend.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYIOfbJlx50&feature=youtu.be

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You will probably have to get help from Vinyl Master support.  We don't even recommend to buy those MH cutters. Too many problems with them.  Bottom of the barrel. We only tell you to buy an SC on up. So your pretty much on your own..Unless you contact VM or UScutter. tech support.

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Guest Future Corporation Support

Firstly, the reason that some cutters require the starting point to be 1 inch away from the first mark is to enable the cutter to freely move to the rest of the marks, if the sheet is rotated slightly, and the cutter does not allow you to move beyond the initial origin point.


This setting can be turned on or off in the vinyl spooler, by going to the "System -> Advanced -> Set Clip Negative" option, and entering either a "0" (without the parenthesis) to turn this option off, or a "1" to set this option.

 

As for the size of the artwork, this depends upon if you are printing directly to a desktop printer, or saving as a PDF. In your video I see that you are saving the artwork to a PDF.  The cause of your sizing problem is you have the "Clip to Page" option set, which treats the size of the page as the bounds of the artwork, rather than just including the logo. Also, there is an option on the "PDF Options" tab that allows you to specify the margin around the marks to provide a small gap so the marks to not go to the very edge of the page.

If you are printing directly to your printer, you have the ability to adjust the position using the arrow buttons on the Print Options tab.

 

 

 

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You can pick up a carrier mat.....I use a low tack one made for a cricket....You can get them in 12X12 or 12X24....Then just stick your heat transfer paper on it and run the entire thing through your machine...Just make sure the rollers stay on the paper and not the adhesive on the mat..

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Appreciate the feedback and support.  I didnt realize that the starting point represents a boundary of sorts.  That helped me a bit.  Seems like the closest I can get to cutting this design is by setting my boundary point right in the center of the left cross line.  That however sets up the rest of the alignment as off, because automatically the rest of my crosshairs are off.  Seems like it works best if I just set the first and second points, then let the machine auto adjust on its own.  Every time I try to align the rest of the crosses it just gets mis-aligned - meaning the first few cuts seem to be on, but the rest are not.  

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Guest Future Corporation Support

What model cutter are you using? (If it is not a Roland or Graphtec, try setting the Clip Negative option in the spooler to 0 (from the System, Advanced menu), and you can start right on the first base point. (as long as your cutter supports this operation).

Also, you can start as far away from the first mark as you like, because it does not actually measure the start point until the very last mark in the sequence.

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Hello,

 

Just wanted to follow up to close out this thread...  I talked to us cutter and they told me that the MH-365 does not support contour cutting because it does not come with a laser.  They said, technically, you can try to align it to the registration marks, but the device was built only to cut directly onto vinyl, not for contour cutting graphics printed by a printer with registration marks.

 

@VinylMaster or futurecorporation, it might help to mention in your videos that it's close to impossible to do what is suggested in your instructional videos (meaning just disable offset if you dont have a laser).  That way you can save the next bloke a few hours of frustration and time.

 

Anyway, I sent that thing back and they charged me a restocking fee and made me pay for shipping because technically the device isn't defective - AND I ended up buying the SC 25".  You'd think I would get some type of loyalty credit where they'd pay for the shipping, and waive the restocking fee, but NOPE.

 

Not a very pleasant experience.  Also, now I'm unable to setup this plotter as my computer doesn't recognize the driver and the instructions to disable driver signing authentication doesnt work.  I'm on to create a new thread now.

 

Jimm

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Guest Tony

The laser offset can easily be disabled, but simply setting the offset values to 0.0 , resulting in the blade effectively becoming the laser. I have actually used a poor mans version on an old cutter once, that did not have a laser, using the Vinyl Master software, by taking an old business card, and cutting it into the shape of a triangle, and using adhesive tape to stick it onto the cutting head. The tip of the point of the card was just above the vinyl, and it worked like a charm.

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Hi Guest_Tony_*,

 

If you have the proper steps with screen shots that may help.  I could never seem to get the same response no matter how much I aligned the tip of the blade to any section of the registration marks.  I tried the lower crosshair, center, left center, etc.  Nothing seemed to give consistent results.

 

Thanks,

Jimm

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On 2/21/2016 at 1:02 AM, VinylMaster said:

VinylMaster Cut works the same as Flexi etc. i.e. no need for the a laser pointer - just use the blade and Ultra Marks, here is a lesson:

 

 

Was about to try this out before I seen this video. It works great with mh871

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