Dawn's Design 403 Posted December 10, 2015 I have a customer that ask me to put his logo on a yeti mug with vinyl. What are your thoughts on the subject. Do you think it will stay or what. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mark-s 1,126 Posted December 10, 2015 it`ll stay for a while just depends on how they handle it. mark-s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted December 10, 2015 how about convex mark? heck I think that stuff will stick to teflon lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dawn's Design 403 Posted December 10, 2015 He want have to worry about the dishwasher. The cup itself is not suppose to be put in one. I thought about using 951. Yeti will monogram it for you for 10$ so I figured I could offer it for 6 or 8. I think I would do decent at that price. Im looking at a screen printing machine to do different things. That might be better than vinyl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mark-s 1,126 Posted December 10, 2015 Not the dishwasher, hand wash only mark-s 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mb20music 760 Posted December 10, 2015 Nevermind LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
H2Ohydrographics 25 Posted December 10, 2015 He want have to worry about the dishwasher. The cup itself is not suppose to be put in one. I thought about using 951. Yeti will monogram it for you for 10$ so I figured I could offer it for 6 or 8. I think I would do decent at that price. Im looking at a screen printing machine to do different things. That might be better than vinyl. That's what I've been telling everyone, hand wash only. It's been yeti central over here in Texas! All the stores are running out of em! Crazy! I usually charge 7-10 for decal and $10 up for etching. (Of course we hydrographics/dip em, but that's another story.) I love the way the etched ones turn out, very pretty! Anna 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busterbay 326 Posted December 10, 2015 He want have to worry about the dishwasher. The cup itself is not suppose to be put in one. I thought about using 951. Yeti will monogram it for you for 10$ so I figured I could offer it for 6 or 8. I think I would do decent at that price. Im looking at a screen printing machine to do different things. That might be better than vinyl. 651 will work just fine for this application I believe the adhesive is the same. Heck even Greenstar would work just hand wash. My wife has vinyl mongrams on several cups for well over two years the key to longevity is hand washing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vitaman 27 Posted December 10, 2015 How do you etch them? I am about to do a few stainless mugs myself, and all I have is an air eraser, and 200 grit A/O in my blast cabinet. I was wondering how well the etch will show on the stainless. That's what I've been telling everyone, hand wash only. It's been yeti central over here in Texas! All the stores are running out of em! Crazy! I usually charge 7-10 for decal and $10 up for etching. (Of course we hydrographics/dip em, but that's another story.) I love the way the etched ones turn out, very pretty! Anna Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go-C Graphics 856 Posted December 11, 2015 That's what I've been telling everyone, hand wash only. It's been yeti central over here in Texas! All the stores are running out of em! Crazy! I usually charge 7-10 for decal and $10 up for etching. (Of course we hydrographics/dip em, but that's another story.) I love the way the etched ones turn out, very pretty! Anna Getting someone to hydro dip a yeti around here will run you $25 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xpaperman 719 Posted December 11, 2015 That's what I've been telling everyone, hand wash only. It's been yeti central over here in Texas! All the stores are running out of em! Crazy! I usually charge 7-10 for decal and $10 up for etching. (Of course we hydrographics/dip em, but that's another story.) I love the way the etched ones turn out, very pretty! Anna Yes! These things are flying off the shelf here in Texas! I found an Academy last week that got a shipment in.... I bought 10 dozen on the spot! I have sold out and need more! Do not use Vinyl is my suggestion. I have people coming to me with vinyl ones where the vinyl is coming off. I etch them! I use the air erasure with 220 grit media. I then use rub and buff to color in! Folks are going nuts for this! I have folks calling me from out of state just to buy the yeti blank! I sell just the yeti, blank for 5 bucks over cost. I charge 15 bucks for etching and am slammed at the moment. I have back orders at Dicks Sporting goods, Cabeleas' , Bass Pro shops and Academy. I also call Academy's in my area everyday to see if they have gotten more in. The vinyl will work ok for awhile if its large pieces. Thinner parts like monograms tend to peel quick from feedback I get. The coldness seems to be what causes the peeling. I am doing everything from monograms to beach scenes to deer heads (ton of those) and lots of other animals, buffalo, owls, horses...... its crazy 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vitaman 27 Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks for the feedback xpaperman! I am getting ready to do the exact thing, and was worried that the 220 grit wasn't aggressive enough to etch the stainless. Makes me nervous experimenting on such an expensive blank... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xpaperman 719 Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks for the feedback xpaperman! I am getting ready to do the exact thing, and was worried that the 220 grit wasn't aggressive enough to etch the stainless. Makes me nervous experimenting on such an expensive blank... I know exactly how you feel! I was the same way. I found some small stainless coffee cups at the dollar store (for a dollar!) to experiment with the etch and color. Came out good so I then moved to the yeti! They look ok too with out the color. I have done a few but once I added the rub and buff everyone wants color. Wish they had a bigger color selection. I also bought a small hydro dip kit (some of yall may remember that thread) as I see on the auction site they sell for 80 bucks dipped. I have not had the time to experiment with it yet. Just too busy. Plus who knows, once I get all the etching done and introduce the dipped..... they may all come back and reorder! Will try and get to the dipping after the first of the year. Also, the etching (for a few customers) is kinda like tattooing! They come, get a small one, pay, then come back... can you add this too? I have someone who has come back 4 times already to add something else. Paying the full rate each time! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louis clarke ii 202 Posted December 11, 2015 Etching is the way to go. I have done several hundred. 220 works fine with 651 as a stencil. (pictures on the way) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dawn's Design 403 Posted December 12, 2015 Sounds like I need to stay away from vinyl. I looked at one of the sand blast cabinets at HF yesterday. Sounds like that will be the way to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vitaman 27 Posted December 12, 2015 Here's some tumblers that my fiance bought to give to her siblings for Christmas. They turned out great, I think (sorry for the flash). These were just cheap-o Walmart tumblers, but I would be confident in etching anything stainless steel now after seeing how they turned out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busterbay 326 Posted December 12, 2015 Here's some tumblers that my fiance bought to give to her siblings for Christmas. They turned out great, I think (sorry for the flash). These were just cheap-o Walmart tumblers, but I would be confident in etching anything stainless steel now after seeing how they turned out. What grit / size / type of blasting media do you use ? ( I not setup for this just curious ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vitaman 27 Posted December 12, 2015 What grit / size / type of blasting media do you use ? ( I not setup for this just curious ) I use 220 grit white aluminum oxide (A/O) that I bought off eBay. It is so much cheaper to buy it in bulk, than buying the 5 pound containers of the Paasche "Air Eraser Compound", which is around 220 grit, but they don't specify the grit on the bottle. I have a harbor freight blast cabinet that I have made a few modifications to. I put an LED outdoor flood light inside it, which is awesome. It is super bright, and doesn't make a lot of heat. I put the light between the arm holes, so it is naturally pointing toward whatever I am holding. I also bought a "Bucket Head" vacuum from Home Depot to exhaust the cabinet. These are cheap, around $15, so if the fine dust burns it out, not a big loss. I hooked the vacuum to a rheostat, so I can control the speed of the motor to keep the noise down. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xpaperman 719 Posted December 12, 2015 I use 220 grit white aluminum oxide (A/O) that I bought off eBay. It is so much cheaper to buy it in bulk, than buying the 5 pound containers of the Paasche "Air Eraser Compound", which is around 220 grit, but they don't specify the grit on the bottle. I have a harbor freight blast cabinet that I have made a few modifications to. I put an LED outdoor flood light inside it, which is awesome. It is super bright, and doesn't make a lot of heat. I put the light between the arm holes, so it is naturally pointing toward whatever I am holding. I also bought a "Bucket Head" vacuum from Home Depot to exhaust the cabinet. These are cheap, around $15, so if the fine dust burns it out, not a big loss. I hooked the vacuum to a rheostat, so I can control the speed of the motor to keep the noise down. So let me ask you this.... your using the blast cabinet from harbor freight with 220 A/O. Are you also using the gun that came with the cabinet? The hole in the end is not as small/fine as the air erasure and was wondering if it would still work anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vitaman 27 Posted December 12, 2015 So let me ask you this.... your using the blast cabinet from harbor freight with 220 A/O. Are you also using the gun that came with the cabinet? The hole in the end is not as small/fine as the air erasure and was wondering if it would still work anyway. No, I only use an air eraser. Here's a look inside of the cabinet too. I tried a spot blaster, but the 220 grit AO is so fine that it goes through it too quick. I've tried 80 grit in the past, and it is quicker, but gives a rougher finish. I like how the 220 grit gives a nice fine satin-like finish. I ordered a roll of clear Oracal 631 (wall vinyl) to stick on the inside of the glass of the cabinet. When it gets hard to see, just peel it off, and cut yourself a new one. I'd say the most important thing when setting up a blast cabinet for etching is getting good lighting in there, and some sort of dust extraction so you can actually see. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
knucklehead 530 Posted December 12, 2015 I put a T fitting in my airline, with a connector, and just hook my air eraser up, right there in the cabinet. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xpaperman 719 Posted December 13, 2015 So you still have to keep refilling the air erasure right? That to me is what is the biggest pain in the @$$. I too like the quality of the air erasure but it's kindefinitely of a pain when you got like 3 dozen mugs to do at once. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louis clarke ii 202 Posted December 13, 2015 You can use the gun that came with the cabinet. I will try and post some pics up. I use a dust collection system. Still trying to get it put together Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT57 135 Posted December 13, 2015 working on some myself. Need that deer in crosshairs. That looks so much better than the plain deer i was gonna do. These look great everyone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
louis clarke ii 202 Posted December 14, 2015 Deer in the cross hairs. Deernscope.svg 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites