bigspool 0 Posted November 19, 2015 Hey guys, I need some help troubleshooting this problem. I run a business and purchased a USCutter Laserpoint Cutter as a production tool to cut 7mil Mylar, which is really thin. After reading through several forums, it seems like this should have been easy at 100-150 pressure settings. However, even with 800 pressure and the blade all the way exposed, the machine barely cuts through half the depth of the 7mil Mylar. Can someone help or offer some perspective with this? Best, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted November 19, 2015 I've never tried mylar but did you see if you had a broken tip on your blade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mb20music 760 Posted November 19, 2015 Are you using a 60 degree blade? I would say that to have any chance of cutting mylar you will need a 60 degree blade. Also, cutting mylar will dull the blades VERY quickly... The specs do show that the Laserpoint has up to 800 grams of pressure but I have a feeling it is not actually anywhere near that, most of the value cutters only have around 250-300 grams max pressure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigspool 0 Posted November 19, 2015 Hey guys, We tried using a 60 degree blade with no luck. It looks like the blade just isn't going deep enough into the material. Best, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,709 Posted November 19, 2015 I have never cut mylar, but maybe this blade set up procedure will help you To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigspool 0 Posted November 19, 2015 I have never cut mylar, but maybe this blade set up procedure will help you To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. Thanks for the set up tip. It works fine when we hand cut the mylar - cuts super easily, but when we put it in the blade holder/machine, it doesn't work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BearlyRich 167 Posted November 20, 2015 I've cut duct tape with my PCut... I would wonder about the backing material or speed. Use a 60 degree blade and slowest speed. If the backing material is too soft, it may be flexing too much. Not knowing the setup, just some thoughts... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wildgoose 4,200 Posted November 20, 2015 Have you tried making a couple passes? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigspool 0 Posted November 20, 2015 Have you tried making a couple passes? Yup! It seems like the pressure isn't high enough to go through the material, which is quite strange. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,709 Posted November 20, 2015 Have you made sure that the carriage head is firmly down in the track? White wheels down in track?, Nothing in the rail? There is no obstruction of the carriage head going down all the way? Blade holder is down firmly in the carriage head? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skarekrow 1,842 Posted November 20, 2015 What I was cutting in the past with my Lylu TC was .005 "Dura-Lar"... (says on package, "The Acetate alternative"). Had the plotter cranked all the way and the Mylar spray-mounted to a Cricut cutting mat. 60 degree blade. I'd guess it averaged about 80% of the graphics cut all the way through in one pass and Just a bend or 2 would snap it out. ...and yes, I believe the TC does have 800 grams of down force as my 300 gram Graphtec would only score it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busterbay 326 Posted November 21, 2015 Yup! It seems like the pressure isn't high enough to go through the material, which is quite strange. I have cut several types of media for stencils on my MH,since it's a "lesser" machine than your laser point this short guide should work just fine. Write down your current settings for vinyl, keep this in a safe place. Buy a second blade holder Insert a 60 degree blade in this holder ( you will want less blade dragging through the material) Extend the blade twice the length of vinyl ( or just a bit past the thickness of the stencil material ) Crank the pressure up..... then crank it again; On my MH I cut vinyl at 10 downforce plastics 250 downforce. Make two passes for 7 mil ( hogging through on the first pass is asking for trouble.) ( 7 mil was two passes - 5 mil one pass) Use a carrier sheet - one with a sticky back type works best BAM you have your stencils. Oh almost forgot - It's a good idea to mark your blade holders it kind of sucks when you grab the wrong one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigspool 0 Posted November 23, 2015 I have cut several types of media for stencils on my MH,since it's a "lesser" machine than your laser point this short guide should work just fine.Write down your current settings for vinyl, keep this in a safe place. Buy a second blade holder Insert a 60 degree blade in this holder ( you will want less blade dragging through the material) Extend the blade twice the length of vinyl ( or just a bit past the thickness of the stencil material ) Crank the pressure up..... then crank it again; On my MH I cut vinyl at 10 downforce plastics 250 downforce. Make two passes for 7 mil ( hogging through on the first pass is asking for trouble.) ( 7 mil was two passes - 5 mil one pass) Use a carrier sheet - one with a sticky back type works best BAM you have your stencils. Oh almost forgot - It's a good idea to mark your blade holders it kind of sucks when you grab the wrong one. So i'm using a 60 degree blade in the holder and pressure between 100-800 and it only scores the mylar. If i press my finger down on the blade hodler even very slightly, it will cut through. If not, no amount downforce I set makes a difference. Is there a way to test if something is broken? This is a new machine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,709 Posted November 23, 2015 Uscutter support is still open Pacific time....give them a call. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigspool 0 Posted November 23, 2015 Uscutter support is still open Pacific time....give them a call. I did - 2 separate reps and a product tester said that the LaserPoint cutter model doesn't work with mylar, which I find hard to believe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
busterbay 326 Posted November 24, 2015 I did - 2 separate reps and a product tester said that the LaserPoint cutter model doesn't work with mylar, which I find hard to believe. Make 3 or even 4 passes..... it will eventually cut. I would suggest using 5 mil. It's easier to work with and it actually makes a better stencil as it is easier to form on uneven surfaces. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites