Cutting premium vinyl with SC model ? & what else do I need ?

[n1tr0 0]

Questions about using the SC model for a couple things.

1.

I was looking at the buying guide and it lists the SC as ok for regular vinyl. I was looking at ordering some premium vinyl and I'm wondering if going from 3 mils to 2 mils is going to work out ok and which blade do I need to use. Also if I'm ordering up some of the Oracal 751 or 951 with my new cutter, what blade should I be using ? and what transfer paper/tape do I need ?

 

2.

If I want to plot blue-prints, is there a way to directly trace line drawings (dxf, dwg, pdf, word?) or can the machine only trace out shapes with the Sure Cuts a Lot software ? Also are there ink/plotter refills available for the SC ?

 

Thanks.

 

[slice&dice 2,450]

1. The SC will cut all vinyls. The 45* degree blade is fine for most things, but if you go into cutting other (much thicker) materials like reflective, it's beneficial to install the 60* blade.

 

2. Yes, you can replace the pen with standard refills.

 

3. I don't know how SCALp handles importing of various formats, but SignBlazer allows *.dxf;*.eps;*.ai;*.bmp;*.tif;*.gif;*.pcx;*.tga;*.jpg;*.pcd;*.pct;*.psd;*.cmx

[xpaperman 719]

I find that one of the "tweeks" that help make the SC a great value cutter is to use the 60 deg blade all the time.  Others here may strongly disagree but once I switched to the 60 deg I have been getting great results....  especially with the smaller detailed stuff!

[Wildgoose 4,200]

I find that one of the "tweeks" that help make the SC a great value cutter is to use the 60 deg blade all the time.  Others here may strongly disagree but once I switched to the 60 deg I have been getting great results....  especially with the smaller detailed stuff!

I think you would also greatly improve your experience by switching to Clean Cut blades. Seems like there is a generic Green Star premium blade for sale now within USCutter that is actually made by CC. One of the others may clarify if that is actually true or not but I think I read that somewhere. In any event a better quality blade will cut cleaner and last much longer than the standard ones you get with the cutter. save those for spares or for destructive cutting like glitter. 

[xpaperman 719]

I think you would also greatly improve your experience by switching to Clean Cut blades. Seems like there is a generic Green Star premium blade for sale now within USCutter that is actually made by CC. One of the others may clarify if that is actually true or not but I think I read that somewhere. In any event a better quality blade will cut cleaner and last much longer than the standard ones you get with the cutter. save those for spares or for destructive cutting like glitter. 

 

I have actually found the opposite to be true for me.  I am not sure why but I swear its fact.  Maybe to much pressure with the cleancut blades.  I know your supposed to back off on pressure and I did but I was only getting a few weeks out of the cleancut blades.  Using a cheapo..... been almost a year now.  Maybe I got a set of the generic green star ones, I don't know but this current blade is the bomb.

[n1tr0 0]

Thanks for all the tips so far. Any further tips on plotting ? or on the different levels of 'tack' for transfer paper ? 

[Wildgoose 4,200]

You can probably figure out a way to plot drawings by using a pen attachment. Actually copying the drawing you want to plot you will have best luck scanning something in and tracing each line out. Would be much better if you can get your hands on a CAD drawing in a file extension you can get to open. I have worked with DXF files several times with Illustrator. Have never tried to plot one out though I did draw some remodel plans and then sent them to a printer. Without a drafting plug-in in can be tedious and often a lot of work to get every little detail just where you want it. 

 

Most times you will see high tack and medium tack and then there is clear or paper.

 

The main purpose for the tackiness is to pull the vinyl up off the carrier when transferring to the final application spot. Some find medium works sufficient and is then easier to remove from the sign after the vinyl is in place. I tend to use high tack because I hate having vinyl stick to the carrier when trying to apply. It is usually half of a letter and will often result in messing it up. Oracle 651 is particularly touchy some times. They even put out a video that suggests leaving the whole thing face down and removing the carrier up off the vinyl and app tape. Problem with this is most of the time you are hanging the whole thing on a wall or sign. The favorite paper for use with Oracal 631 (which is indoor mat finished vinyl) is Oratape HT55 made specifically by Oracal for the 631 product. IT is actually a medium tack paper but with extra glue so it will seep down and get a better grip on the mat finish while still being reasonable to remove off the wall in less than perfect conditions such as textured wall. The bottom line is there are many different types and options and you will have to dig in and get acquainted with them to form your own opinions. I recommend to start with trying out R-Tape 4075RLA or the 4076RLA. If you are going to be using a lot of Oracal 651 the 4075RLA is slightly more aggressive tack and may yield better results. Either of these are fantastic products. 

 

On the paper vs clear there are many arguments both ways. I tend to stick with paper unless I am selling something to a craft mom who likes to see the colors and better see through the tape to align things. I find I have more issues with temperature distortion and tunneling with the clear than I do with the paper. There is some brand of clear that purports to be ok for wet application but traditionally paper is the only/best for wet application options. You can also squirt the back of paper to help it release after install.