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halpain17

peel and stick? instead of mask...

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So I am new to printing...

Is there a specific vinyl that is used to print on and then contour cut so it can be peeled and stuck by the customer instead of using a mask? Like a normal sticker...

I know its a noon question. But all I've done is stack and mask vinyl.

Tia

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have you laminated it to protect it from UV rays? And you probably could cut  a line down the middle of the backing to make it more like a sticker. Or just make it like a sticker. But remember the bigger the sticker is the harder it is to keep from sticking to itself.

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Well I need to print a bunch of 6"x4" decals... White on clear vinyl. I figured I'd use 751 transparent. And then I'd laminate it... And contour cut an oval around it... My assumption is that the customer could peel that oval up and stick it without a mask... I just wanted to make sure that would work, or if there was a more preferred method for "peel and stick" type decals?

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Well I need to print a bunch of 6"x4" decals... White on clear vinyl. I figured I'd use 751 transparent. And then I'd laminate it... And contour cut an oval around it... My assumption is that the customer could peel that oval up and stick it without a mask... I just wanted to make sure that would work, or if there was a more preferred method for "peel and stick" type decals?

 

You need to do some more research.......  Good luck finding a printer that prints white and you can afford.  

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^thanks for the insight.

 

So

 

I am thinking that the laminate is going to thicken the vinyl and make it feel more "peel and stick" style. (though 751 may not be the correct vinyl to choose for printing)

Basically these folks are ordering decals to promote their business in the 6-digit quantity...

so if I were handing them out, I would not want them with mask on them, I would want a normal peel and stick decal.

I just feel like its more professional looking.

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it works fine, we give out stickers with no mask all the time, just make sure they are laminated.  However you should consider using something other than oracal 751 clear to print on, its not formulated for inks. only for thermal printing, im not saying it doesn't work but it might be better to use a 3M clear or at least something thats designed to accept eco-sol inks unless of course you are thermal printing.

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it works fine, we give out stickers with no mask all the time, just make sure they are laminated.  However you should consider using something other than oracal 751 clear to print on, its not formulated for inks. only for thermal printing, im not saying it doesn't work but it might be better to use a 3M clear or at least something thats designed to accept eco-sol inks unless of course you are thermal printing.

awesome, thanks! yes, i wasn't aware until after a little research that printable media was different than a standard cast vinyl. (i knew you needed special for aqueous tho), but I am going to try to talk them into printing color on white, they just wanted the decals to look like a standard white weeded vinyl... but they want way to many decals to weed them all (6-digits).

 so printed white on clear is better than nothing. I haven't bought my printer but will do so accordingly after I have a signed contract with deposit from them.

Thanks again

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awesome, thanks! yes, i wasn't aware until after a little research that printable media was different than a standard cast vinyl. (i knew you needed special for aqueous tho), but I am going to try to talk them into printing color on white, they just wanted the decals to look like a standard white weeded vinyl... but they want way to many decals to weed them all (6-digits).

 so printed white on clear is better than nothing. I haven't bought my printer but will do so accordingly after I have a signed contract with deposit from them.

Thanks again

remember that contract is a two way street - you say you are going to produce with a aqueous printer - long term durability will be expected and with aqueous vinyl the place it normally fails is in the coating sprayed on it to make it accept the water based ink - even laminated that is where it will separate and fail.  good luck and happy printing 

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remember that contract is a two way street - you say you are going to produce with a aqueous printer - long term durability will be expected and with aqueous vinyl the place it normally fails is in the coating sprayed on it to make it accept the water based ink - even laminated that is where it will separate and fail.  good luck and happy printing 

My apologies, I didn't mean I was going to produce with a aqueous printer, just saying that i understood it required special vinyl.

 

I plan to buy an eco-sol printer, and to laminate.

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sorry - was just going on your comment and your post about the free encad and the comment on printing on the 751 clear.   so you are going to buy an eco solvent with white option . . . any experience with RIPS or difficulties in finding registration marks on clear with white ink?   - think I will sit back and watch - nothing more I can add to be of assistance 

popcorn.gif

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haha, enjoy the show, I plan on getting rid of that encad. Don't need the headaches.

 

I'd prefer to print color on white if they will go for it... but I'd assume the backing for clear vinyl is white right? so You'd think I could print black reg marks on the clear which should show with the white backing...no? I guess I'm definitely gonna learn something from this...

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I currently have a GCC puma iii 24" cutter

I had considered getting the 25" laminator here, along with a 24" mutoh 628x... but then im stuck with </= 24" printable vinyls which doesn't appear to be too common.

 

If I go larger for 30" vinyls then my Puma iii can no longer do the contour cutting for anything over 24" obviously.

So to my understanding the MIMAKI CJV150-75/107/130/160 Printer Cutter System here from uscutter with the correct ink package should do the trick, since it can handle 30" media, and is eco-solvent, plus it has the white ink option. Its either that or the roland versacamm 30" i guess. then of course I'll grab a 38" cold laminator.

 

The mimaki says cutting, but doesnt say automatic contour cutting anywhere... does it not do it? I know the roland does.

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Suddenly it hits me. Car windows almost appear black. I'm gonna convince her to print black on white with the graphics opposite so I don't need white ink. Don't know why I let that by me before.

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