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MH871-MK2 Refine MH Series Power Plug Problem

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Ok.  EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING.  My Power plug port on my cutter was damaged.  Redid my home office and must have jammed it into something and basically shattered it.  Of course USCutter is out of stock in the replacement one.  So I found some online and purchased.  I spent over 1 hr online today trying to do the online chat.  It kept saying I was 1 in queue.  Then after about 1 1/2 min it told me to leave a message.  All I need is to know which colored wires connect to which terminal.  Or if it even matters.  I wasn't able to call so I was trying online.  Again, over 1 hr and still no help at all.  Sent a message...around 2pm eastern time...still haven't heard a word.  Again all I need to know is which wires hook up to which prongs on the inside (to the quick connect jacks).  Anyone have any idea?  And of course there is no information attached with the part on the web page and there is no info anywhere that I have been able to find.  

 

I have been needing to fix this to finish a project for a friend's fiance for her new business.  Again, EXTREMELY frustrating.

 

 

http://www.uscutter.com/Refine-MH-Series-Power-Plug

 

 

Can anyone help?

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yes it matters which is connected where- one wire is hot the other is neutral with the third being ground - in many cases the ground and neutral are connected together - like in your breaker box in your house they go to the same bus bar usually - now connect that hot to the wrong one and have a hot case would be bad - personally I would have removed the old one and noted the placement . .  .

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If my memory serves me correct, there was a yellow and blue wire I think (off the top of tmy head), then a brown wire that looks like it went to the fuse.  The blue and yellow ones were quick connect, the brown on did not have a quick connect attached to it.  Some kind of covering on it, but looks soldered to the prong.   

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yes it matters which is connected where- one wire is hot the other is neutral with the third being ground - in many cases the ground and neutral are connected together - like in your breaker box in your house they go to the same bus bar usually - now connect that hot to the wrong one and have a hot case would be bad - personally I would have removed the old one and noted the placement . .  .

 

I couldn't note the placement.  The 3 prongs went inside the machine itself.  Completely out of the bracket

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the ground one should be easy to find with the plotter torn apart - and the hot wire will lead to a fuse or other protection device

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Red is coming out of the fuse -- and yellow is coming into the fuse, so that's the hot wire on my MH unit.

 

 

EDITED TO ADD --

 

I've now seen your photos, and the brown wire is the 'yellow' wire (see how it comes into the fuse).


 

Edited by slice&dice

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Just ran ran the 3rd floor to take some pics. 

 

Here is why I couldn't notate where the cables were hooked up.  Or trust me I would have.

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The 2 wires with the quick connect.

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The brown wire that was connected without a quick connect

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I get that slice - 2 years of radio and tv repair -- I also get there is a hot and a neutral wire - connect the hot to the neutral on his plotter and he could end up with a hot cutter . . .  now technically if he connected the hot in place of the neutral it should trip the breaker if the ground is installed on the right terminal - please enlighten me some more

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betting that green/yellow goes to the chassis and is ground - follow it and find out - 

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And obviously the brown one will not connect to the new piece.  I should be able to cut the wire, strip it and put a quick connect on correct?  Just don't want to fry this thing.  Not that it was uber expensive, but really don't want to have to buy another one right now.

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should be able to - but I solder everything - just put a new radio in the beetle - all the wires were soldered and heat shrinked

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Using all the information that's been provided here so far (and I learned something about household wiring, thanks to dakota)

HERE is the connection diagram you need to get this working again  --

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I think you should still contact support as I see the neutral and live backwards on slices photo

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I verified the marking on this plug is correct with my  multi meter - which is opposite of slices photo above for live and neutral

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Dakota, the inside wiring on my MH is exactly as I illustrated.

 

The yellow wires go from the power plug into on/off switch and then run to the fuse, and the fuse has a RED wire leading into the core of the machine.

 

However, I will say this, for what it's worth ---- on the power socket itself, on the back, the markings for L and N show the yellow wire coming from the N side, but why would the neutral be wired into the FUSE and the on/off switch?

 

And RED should mean live.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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another twist - it appears this color coding is for european standards
 

Function label Color, IEC Color, old IEC Protective earth PE green-yellow green-yellow Neutral N blue blue Line, single phase L brown brown or black

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I cannot imagine why yours would have the neutral fused and switched - any malfunction and the live wire to the power supply always has power to it - only broken at the neutral severing the circuit   - - - - - according to the color scheme  the OP cutter uses the european color codes and using that the brown (live wire by both us and european standards) would be where your black wire is and the blue would be where your yellow wire is 

so maybe the best answer still is ask support - I took a multi meter to my cord and the hot side is indeed that labeled L (for line) - why slices plotter has a switched and fused neutral is beyond me as it is against the standards anywhere that I found

I took the pictures and put them together in the same orientation as it was giving me a headache trying to look at them

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Slice - where does that extra black wire go to on your plotter (the one by the green yellow ground wire on the plug) - and does that red go to the l or n on the power supply board?


maybe China has a secret code we don't know about lol

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Dakota,  back when I was younger, the electric sockets on the wall outlets did not have one hole being larger than another, and you could just insert the plug, there was no need to worry about the direction it went in (both prongs were of equal width and could be put into the sockets either way, right to left or left to right) -- and there was no ground (third prong).

Based on my simple understanding, this was because it's alternating current and would make no difference which is which.

When I started replying to this thread, that's the layman's assumption I was going with.

(and as you saw, I edited those comments out, deferring to your expertise in electrical matters)

 

 

Here's what I think is happening with the MH871 cutter ----

the Chinese manufacturer has the frikkin' wires hooked up backwards for modern US polarity standards!!! 

 

I kid you not.

 

I have looked at where that red line goes (and where the black lines come from).

The RED indeed goes to the L (live) connector on the power supply, and the 2 blacks are hooked up to the N and Ground.

So, the machine is literally HOT, just as you said.

(and may explain why these things are prone to static and frying the motherboards and Zchips)

 

OK, now you want to hear something REALLY strange?

I took apart my MH mini 14" and discovered a DIFFERENT wiring scheme.

Yep, the brown leads to the L and the blue leads to the N.

 

Whatta ya think about THAT?!!!

 

 

 

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