racert25 2 Posted January 28, 2015 Im trying to cut very small letters for glass etching. my first time doing this. What are some recommended settings for small cuts? I have the ce6000-60 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted January 28, 2015 The only setting I change is speed to slow... Nothing else. Never a problem.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racert25 2 Posted January 28, 2015 How small would you say your letters are? So im not trying to do something way to small. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted January 28, 2015 Look on this page, I cut 1/4" chrome here the word Tiny with just a regular 45 degree blade, and Avery Chrome is a lot thicker then sign vinyl. How small are you trying to cut? http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/topic/42357-lease-vs-purchase/page-4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racert25 2 Posted January 28, 2015 1/4" is the letters i think the script font i choose is to thin so its not working. Arial cut fine but when i go to pull say an e out the dot comes with it. I think i just need to be patient peeling and find a good script font for this mug Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MZ SKEETER 4,708 Posted January 28, 2015 Yes, small text needs patience weeding.. I use a needle to pick stuff, and the eraser end of a pencil to hold down sometimes...so it doesn't get damaged. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OWJones 1,981 Posted January 28, 2015 Small, thin, script-type fonts are never easy to weed, even when your cutter is dialed in perfectly. If you're cutting stencils for etching, then trying taping and installing the whole thing and then pick out the letters after the stencil is already on your substrate. That's the easiest way I've found for doing fancy wine/champagne bottles.. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DCMoney 91 Posted January 28, 2015 What I started to do for anything tiny, especially those "e"s, I pull an extra what ever is difficult out and just cut what needs to be on the side of my design. This allows me quickly weed and then go back and transplant those tiny difficult letters and details that come off. I'm also using a 60 degree cutter. In the Guns and Coffee example I know the mouth, nose and trigger guards are the hard weeding parts of this design. Nose is .07"x.02". I put the extra pieces in one of the corners of the box, (upper left in this example) then I transplant back where they belong after I weed. Doing this cut my weeding time down more than half. Left the nose out of this one but you get the idea. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racert25 2 Posted January 28, 2015 Thats a good idea! I was able to get it done just took some patience. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wildgoose 4,200 Posted January 28, 2015 DC- Great idea! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
levy4u 19 Posted January 29, 2015 1/8" letters (practice, not selling, don't worry) - Preset 1 from factory, factory blade Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mfatty500 454 Posted January 29, 2015 Levy4u, I hope that machine you are cutting with is not a Graphtec, or similar, if so you need to adjust something, because the B,R,O don't look so well... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
levy4u 19 Posted January 29, 2015 What do you mean? It looks fine to me. You are talking about the letters B, R and O correct? The plastic cup has ribs going through it and it was just for fun so I had illustrator live trace a photo of an online graphic, it's not a true type font or proper vector. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites