Contour-Cutting with LP24: Annoying Offset Problem

[NukleoN 34]

Hi there,

Hoping someone here can help me though it seems a lot of people don't do what I do with contour-cutting on an LP24, but I feel like this forum is my only recourse.

I am using an LP24 to contour cut with SignCut 1.07. I would use 1.95 but it's crashtastic when it comes to this and I don't recommend this version. Works ok for regular cutting.

I've calibrated my laser offset per-usual.

I'm using a Roland 45-degree from Clean Cut Blade. Offset is a proper .25 as recommended by Clean Cut and this forum (and from experience).

PROBLEM: The contour cuts are about a 1/16" to 1/8" too low on the graphics, consistently. The contour layer is perfectly aligned in Illustrator, and other files have cut perfectly. This new file cuts with a bizarre offset I can't seem to fix. 

So, I've set the offset. I'm aligning each cut as I normally would with registration marks. Reg marks set to size 0, 3 reg marks. All correct. Offset is .25.

Any ideas why I am getting consistently low cuts? I may try another file just to see if it's different, but why would one file be different from another if the other settings are the same?

Thanks!

Spacepod Graphics

[NukleoN 34]

I know a lot of people don't do this...but any ideas out there? Thanks much!

[jaybyrd 3,770]

I don't know how to cure it but a patch would be to shift your contour by that much in illustrator so it actually cuts in the right spot.

[NukleoN 34]

I don't know how to cure it but a patch would be to shift your contour by that much in illustrator so it actually cuts in the right spot.

Thanks Jay.

Yeah that is a kludge but it wastes my first cut having to see how much it's off. Is this a normal thing to do with cuts that are off? Why is the cut off in the first place?

1. I calibrated the offset using the pen, with a pen offset of zero during calibration.

2. Using a 45 degree blade, I know the offset should be .25mm as recommended by Clean Cut blades, and this is just a common offset anyway for this angle of blade. I tried 0.00 offset and it's worse.

3. My pinch rollers are nice and tight, since I replaced them a couple months ago.

4. Every file seems to cut a little low, even though my registration marks are on-point.

5. If I shift the contour layer up a bit to compensate, the cutter will cut the top rows ok but the bottom row of the vinyl sheet is always offset more. What might cause this?

6. I should just get a freakin' GRAPHTEC!!

[jaybyrd 3,770]

I had a lp1 for a couple years and you might just be asking too much of it. I vote Graphtec.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

you are also adjusting for the offset of the pointing laser on your cutter - not just blade offset - that is all part of the fun of having a manual contour cutting system. I LOVE my graphtec but have to say the rolands have the best contour cutting system out there - the circles are a lot easier for the machine to find than the small lines used by others

[NukleoN 34]

you are also adjusting for the offset of the pointing laser on your cutter - not just blade offset - that is all part of the fun of having a manual contour cutting system. I LOVE my graphtec but have to say the rolands have the best contour cutting system out there - the circles are a lot easier for the machine to find than the small lines used by others

Should I be using the .25 offset when I use the pen to calibrate the laser? Or, should offset be at 0 with the pen?

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

heck I don't know _ I have 2 auto registration cutters - no adjustment needed.  I am sure someone that does manual will be around though

[NukleoN 34]

I had a lp1 for a couple years and you might just be asking too much of it. I vote Graphtec.

Yeah the contour cuts have been dicey for a while. For some reason, everything cuts low and it's driving me mad. I end up having to guess at raising the contour, and then it still cuts some of the page low (even if some on the same page are OK). It's impossible to get a page of nice cuts. That drives me mad too. There seems to be no fix.

Question, when I calibrate the laser with the pen, should I be using 0.00 offset or .25 offset? I know the 45-degree blade needs .25 offset but I could be screwing myself with the lack of pen offset. I don't see why they'd be different though, but for the blade tip not being centered like a pen is.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

like I said above the offset for the laser is different than the blade offset - once you have the blade offset adjusted why would you adjust or use that number at all - you are adjusting for the difference in distance from the laser to the blade.  the best option would be to jack up the blade and roll a new roland with auto registration under it.  I LOVE graphtecs but there is no easier cutter for contouring than a roland.  that is why you put money back from each job and upgrade occasionally to work your way into the better equipment

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

HOLY CRAP - Dan - is that you - heck I didn't recognize you till now!

hold on let me check my spelling LOL

[jaybyrd 3,770]

I used the point of my blade for alignment with all laser offsets set at zero on the lp2. I'd suggest trying that

[NukleoN 34]

I used the point of my blade for alignment with all laser offsets set at zero on the lp2. I'd suggest trying that

Thanks Jay. Yeah guys this is Dan, formerly known as NukleoN here. I just use 'Spacepod' these days for my new company, Spacepod Graphics. I also have a YouTube channel as 'Spacep0d' with over 17,000 subscribers.

Jay, how do you align the blade? Can you see the blade well enough to align it to the reg mark?

Thanks again.

@Dakota: We in the sign-biz should be great spellers, eh?

As soon as I can afford it I am getting a Graphtec!

[jaybyrd 3,770]

Push down the rod that pushes the blade out and you can get a dead on alignment.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

nope - my spelling and grammar hasn't improved - but I correct free

[NukleoN 34]

Push down the rod that pushes the blade out and you can get a dead on alignment.

Ok, looks like I can push the blade down and make a tiny little mark that I can see with a flashlight. Is this what you do? Zero offset I guess since the blade is being checked directly?

How do you create the registration mark? Do you use the blade for that too, or do you use the ink pen with zero offset?

Thanks.

[NukleoN 34]

nope - my spelling and grammar hasn't improved - but I correct free

It's like me with directions. I suck at directions and navigating for some reason. Language comes easily.

[jaybyrd 3,770]

Only time I've messed with it is through flexi starter and it was quite a while ago.

[NukleoN 34]

Yeah if I align with the blade point, the laser itself is off somewhere else and this undermines the point of using the laser to do contour-cutting. Really, I should be able to calibrate normally and have the cutter cut as-intended. But, it could be that the error-margin on the LP24 is too high for the precision I want. It's also inconsistent even on the same page...growing worse at the bottom of the sheet compared to the top or middle.

I'm guessing people don't have these problems with the better cutters like Graphtec or Roland.

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

Dan, the graphtecs and rolands find the contour marks themselves and do all the calculations for you so that margin of error is eliminated  - for contour cutting nothing beats the rolands - but I keep a graphtec for all my regular cutting. - the ones like this with a laser are just a cheat way around and really no better than the way jay explained with the blade, but it is a great way to charge a bit more for a cutter.  Laser = cool factor.

[jaybyrd 3,770]

When I changed the carriage on mine I broke the laser but like Scott said it was basically a shiny toy stuck on there to jack the price up.

[NukleoN 34]

I just don't see a way to eyeball a blade. It makes a mark but there's tons of room for error in simply seeing a tiny mark blocked by the carriage and everything else. So, the laser serves a purpose. It's just that a calibrated laser still doesn't mean I get even borders with a contour-cut. I have to trick the offset by doing trial and error runs (wasting materials) and dialing in the offset to something which works for the real world.

So yeah, I'll get a Graphtec as soon as I can (dunno if I can afford a Roland). Do they make Rolands that are 24" and affordable? If so, I'd be all for that too. 

Until then, the best bet so far is to tweak the offset values in SignCut to get the cutter to cut properly. Slowly but surely my cuts are getting more accurate, but I've cut way too many sheets for this client just testing (after using the ink pen initially on a test sheet).

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

dan, watch craigslist in your area for a good used graphtec or roland - with your print cut you will probably like a roland gx-24 best - there are deals you just have to watch for them

[NukleoN 34]

dan, watch craigslist in your area for a good used graphtec or roland - with your print cut you will probably like a roland gx-24 best - there are deals you just have to watch for them

Ok, the Roland GX24 it is (once I have the funds). Thanks for the recommendation. I watched a few videos about this cutter and yes, it's exactly what I need. The LP24 works, but it's just not as accurate as I need now that I am doing much more volume and intricate jobs (sometimes with my own art). I'm tired of uneven borders!

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

I think the gx-24 is right in your alley - now hte graphtec has it beat for small intricate work but the roland is much easier for contour cutting