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PointOfExpression

Need help with sublimated mugs

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So I have been pressing some mugs lately and it is a very large hit and miss ratio with which ones turn out great and which ones don't. Today I went through 3 mugs. I have wasted a total of about 15 mugs using different temps and pressures. The blacks are having a smudge or gassing appearance on the side of them. Normally happens the most on black text where you can see little  black dots and smudging coming from the side of the text. The colors all turn out great.

 

I am using an ebay mug press (varied temp: idle temp, press temp, time).

Mugs from coastal

Image right paper from coastal.

WF 30 from cobra ink with cis high temp inks

 

Please help as I am wasting so many mugs trying to figure this out.

 

Doing both latte and classic style mugs.

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can you post a picture of the mug press you have.

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those are a pain but try this.

 

  • P-1: heat preservation - prevent the over burning of mug attachment ( If This is like mines then this is the temp that it reaches before you start the process mines is at 365.
  • P-2: heating temperature - set the desired temperature  ( I set this to 385)
  • P-3: heating time - set the precise heating time (I set this to 100)
  • P-4: temperature correction - set appropriately calibration temperature (Don't have this setting)
  • Now after you finish burning your first mug put the next mug in should be cold then let it get up to the set time you use for P-1 then once it beeps push enter to start the countdown.
  • also are you using heat tape the smugging could be from to much pressure or the image moving

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So put the second mug in while it is still in the cooling process down to p1?

once you put in the cold mug the temp will drop all the way down then it will count backup to 365 then it should beep after that push the ok or enter but it should blink and count up to 385 then countdown from 100

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Yeah, I just figured since it was already hot, it would start the sublimation process early but I guess I can give that a try. It normally start happening real bad on the 3rd mug too

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one more thing keep a regular mug in it at all time when your heat it up. then after that you can switch mugs that your going to be doing. never heat without a mug in it.I use a old coffee mug for that time.

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Yeah, I just figured since it was already hot, it would start the sublimation process early but I guess I can give that a try. It normally start happening real bad on the 3rd mug too

yeah if you look at the cold mugs you will see the temp drop. I had this same issue till I started doing this then it all went away.the paper should turn a little brown on the edges.

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Alright, so I tried heating it with another mug in there, then putting the actual mug in at those times and it still shot down in temp. Here is a picture of the issue.

 

20140818_162708_zps91d41f3a.jpg

 

You can see on the top of the I and B that there is black coming off the letters. Ended up ordering a new mug press today as I am done trying to play with this one.

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One thing I haven't seen mentioned, do you not have to heat your mug a little before attaching the transfer paper?

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when you print the paper is it showing those shadows on the paper. and are you pulling the paper off right after it finish. could also be pressure.

 

and are you using heat transfer tape. to hold it in place.

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I have heard heating the mug before is a bad thing to do. The paper I print does not show those errors.

 

I have tried pulling the paper off before dunking in water and just dunking with the paper on it so I have tried both ways. I am using heat tape to hold it in place. Also have tried many different pressures.

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the gassing is where the paper is not tight until removed allowing the gassed ink to flow into the other areas - so press must not be holding it tight there - 
NEVER dunk the mug to cool it - it causes crazing in the glaze (micro cracks) - let them cool in front of a fan after removing the paper.  the cactus wrap people started showing this at shows a couple years ago - one mug that was dunked they they put shoe polish on it and removed it to show the cracks in the glazing!

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Normal procedure is to remove the paper immediately after removing from the heat.  Once you take it out of the press and the pressure is relieved, any dye remaining on the transfer sheet is free to go anywhere and it doesn't require pressure to get it to bond to the polyester - the pressure is to keep the design tight against the substrate and keep the image from moving around and ghosting.

 

Not sure where you got the instructions telling you to dunk in water, but every video I've watched and every set of instructions I've read have said not to do that.   I set items on a metal baking rack (like you cool cookies on) in front of a fan.

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Actually ow they used to teach everyone to dunk, always seamed strange to me as you could hear the crazing happening.

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I was told tape on mugs was bad.  I can remove the coating when removed.  I was told to only use the sticky spray. (by Conde)  I did experience the problem they warned me about with the tape.  Just throwing this info out there.  I only use the spray now.  Doesn't take much plus I use the cactus wraps.....

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If you tape by the handles using the press it doesn't get hot enough to hurt the coating. I hate the spray because if you get a small clump in the spray it'll show in the finished product.

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Conde does a demo on youtube and says to dunk. I have dunk every mug I have done without any cracking issues. I have also tried to air cool a few with the same outcome. Removing the paper right away or after dunking brings the same outcomes. 

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Conde does a demo on youtube and says to dunk. I have dunk every mug I have done without any cracking issues. I have also tried to air cool a few with the same outcome. Removing the paper right away or after dunking brings the same outcomes. 

take a mug you pressed a couple months ago and rub shoe polish on it and then clean it off - it will show the micro cracking in the glazing.  I am sure you have seen this same effect on OLD glazed ceramics, but do what ever you are comfortable with.

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Conde does a demo on youtube and says to dunk. I have dunk every mug I have done without any cracking issues. I have also tried to air cool a few with the same outcome. Removing the paper right away or after dunking brings the same outcomes. 

I used to dunk till I got a customer who said the mug was nice and perfect till her boyfriend filled it with coffee and it leaked everywhere. Thats when I stop dunking as you could heard it cracking when dunking.

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