Graniteguy

Sandblasting!

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Also, oilless or oil? Since you want dry air I'm assuming oilless would work better for this but it looks like oil compressors are quiter, larger capabilities, and have a longer life span. So if one were to go with an oil compressor will a oil/water inline filter do a good enough job to dry the air?

Seems like the best compressor for a small cabinet like the HF is one that puts out about 20 cfm at 100 psi.  The one I have now doesn't have that much muscle, so I have to wait for it to catch up.  If you have access to 220 power, its much easier to find a compressor that will do the job.  Even easier if you have 3-phase.  I see used ones for around a grand that would do the job for me.  A lot depends on your system.  A siphon unit uses a lot more air than a pressure pot.  I modified my gun so it only uses around 12 cfm.  Since I'm only doing detail work and not cleaning large items, it works.  Sort of.  I plan to upgrade when the IRS smiles on me.

 

JT

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I do some Blasting but haven't figured out how to add color to glass. here are a couple I've done 

That looks nice.  You might try a bolder font, but I do like the looks of what you have there.

I use epoxy paint on the stone I blast.  It's the stuff they use to paint brake calipers for cars.  VHT is the brand.  It heat cures in 20 minutes at 200 degrees F.  If you strip the stencil off when the paint is just dry to the touch, you don't get much flash.  You might also check out some of the glass art sites.  Seems like I saw some dyes and other coloring agents.  

 

JT

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lueman, check out dickblick.com.  That's a glass art supply and they have glass paints there.  The rub'n buff is a great idea too.

 

JT

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I have some of the thick 3M reflective I'll trade for that if he passes. It's like duct tape, I can't use it at all. I'll have to look and see how much I have, but thinking it's two 5' rolls of 54" material.

Go for it. I think I'll hang on to the reflective for now. 

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I'm heading out later after work.  

Anyone have a suggestion for what to buy from HF to shoot media?

Being totally a newbie to this. I have now purchased a small pressure pot AND a table top cabinet. My observation is that the cabinet and siphon style gun are real simple and easy to use. A lot less control though because they have bigger tips and use more air to create enough pull to suck up the grit but having a trigger right there to control is sweet and probably how I would have started had I known the cabinet came with a gun. My HF guy told be it didn't. LOL. Even if I had gotten the pressure pot only, I would have went back and bought the cabinet to have control of the dust and media.  Now for the pressure pot I went ahead and put it together and actually have used it more because you can turn the pressure way down and just kind of take it easy which is nice, especially with using the Green Star vinyl as a resist for light glass work. You have to let it get going for 30 seconds to a minute so it will smooth out. Right at first it shoots a ton of media out but then once the line clears it runs great. The down side it that you can't really control the overall thing as handy. There is a valve out at the work end but it's just for all the way on or all the way off. The main control valves are at the pressure pot and you have your hands stuck in rubber gloves in the cabinet so... If you try to regulate things at the work end they say you'll wear out the valve and I believe it. So to start with you're going to want a cabinet in my opinion. You can add to that as you go. 

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Scott, what is this "rub 'n buff" you speak of?  I have tried to google it, and search for it on us cutter without success...

Thanks,

Cal

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Scott, what is this "rub 'n buff" you speak of?  I have tried to google it, and search for it on us cutter without success...

Thanks,

Cal

http://www.dickblick.com/products/amaco-rub-n-buff-metallic-finishes/

 

http://www.misterart.com/painting/decorative-painting/faux-finishing/rub-n-buff-the-original-wax-metallic-finish.html

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Thanks for the link Scott!  Would the rub 'n buff be suitable for use on a glass?  It wouldn't wash off?  Do you have to use the glass surface prep under this if used in the etched area?  Next time I am in Atlanta I will see if the Blick store carries it.

Thanks again,

Cal

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Folkart Acrylic paint once baked on is supose to be dishwasher safe. I played around with it a little but it wasn't the look I was wanting. I etched a glass with the Armor etch cream and then without removing the stencil did the paint. I also tried painting a section of the glass with out etching. Both looked the same so the etching was kind of pointless. A deaper etch that you can get from a sandblaster might give better results. Small bottles are only like $1.50 at Hobby Lobby so it doesn't cost much to try different things. I found a couple of web pages talking about different techniques and ways to achive translucent effects.

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you can get 'rubnbuff' at Michaels  and Hobby Lobby also.

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Thanks theresat, I picked up a tube at Hobby Lobby last night and tried it out.  I think by the time I was done that I had as much on me as I did the mirror!!!

I did like the results though.  I wonder, can you "over apply", or rub it too much on application?  On my test piece I really rubbed it in and buffed it immediately and didn't get much color left.  On my good pieces I just rubbed it in first and left it to dry awhile before buffing it.

Cal

 

Scott, like your new avatar.  I can relate to it... Have a safe trip

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Thanks Cal - I know when I use the rub n buff it has been with the heavy grit so it has quite a bit to grab onto.  just a thought for those that use acid etch  it wont work as good as that is a very fine surface etch

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Thanks theresat, I picked up a tube at Hobby Lobby last night and tried it out.  I think by the time I was done that I had as much on me as I did the mirror!!!

I did like the results though.  I wonder, can you "over apply", or rub it too much on application?  On my test piece I really rubbed it in and buffed it immediately and didn't get much color left.  On my good pieces I just rubbed it in first and left it to dry awhile before buffing it.

Cal

 

Scott, like your new avatar.  I can relate to it... Have a safe trip

What little experience I have with rub n buff has not been on blasted glass.  I did put on a good layer, wait awhile, then buff.  It is a very interesting and versatile product.

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Hey good tip on the rub n buff! I used some antique gold on one of my Christmas plates and it worked great to bring out the etch and add some Christmas Cheer. 

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I bought the WRONG color. This was my first try so I didn't have anything to buff with except a rag. Did anyone use anything else.? I found it hard to remove if I did the whole etched area and go back to buff. It was hard to get off the unetched area. All the area was -was a single initial monogram. :-\

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Theresa try putting the rub n buff on before you take the vinyl off

Bob

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putting in on before i remove vinyl - well DUH !!! why didn't i think of that. I am so blonde. - OK, no blonde jokes. !!!! Thank you !!!!

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putting in on before i remove vinyl - well DUH !!! why didn't i think of that. I am so blonde. - OK, no blonde jokes. !!!! Thank you !!!!
that's what we do around here help each other even when it might have been obvious to someone else. It isn't always obvious to us at the time
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Good tips here!  Was in Atlanta last week and found a couple colors that the local H.L. didn't carry.

The mirror that I did use this one got great reviews...

Cal

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Bob, I searched my hubby's dremel for the felt when I was attempting this but he didn't have the felt pad. At least I did think of that. Thanks for the help.

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