Sign in to follow this  
68Blkbrd

Graphtec Cutting Master 3 and Illustrator

Recommended Posts

I'm new to vinyl cutting but not to Illustrator. I have a new Graphtec CE6000-60 with Graphtec's Cutting Master 3 software. Do I have to alter the way I design in Illustrator so I can get the file to cut properly? (expand and merge all strokes and merge all fills in Pathfinder) Do I have to have each color on its own layer? This would really slow me down after I'm done designing. Does Cutting Master 3 optimize my file for cutting?
I designed with spot colors but have various layered strokes and fills to get the look I desire. I've attached the file for review.

 

UPDATE  9-19-13...I've optimized my file for what I think will work for cutting. I used the stars for registration marks in all colors and a light blue to represent my white.

I must say this way will affect the way I design for sure. Wildgoose is correct it will take me some getting used to as a graphic designer. I wish there was a better way to handle strokes but necessity forces invention.

Wildgoose, could you check my optimized file when you have some free time. I'd really appreciate it as I am anxious to start cutting. Thanks!

 

 

PM-Designz-2.pdf

PM-Designz-Optimized.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't use cutting master or graphtec but you will have to have things built a certain way to cut. For instance gradients are not going to work in vinyl which is solid. Any line weight is ignored. Just flip over from preview mode to look at the vectors and that is what your cutter will see. You will have to learn to build things a little differently but it won't be that tough once you get the hang of it. If you have any strokes that you want we usually have that as a completely different object behind the front color so it appears as an outline. You can cut strokes if you outline them and make them an object or more correct a compound path. You will have to think outside the box a little and picture how each color layer needs to interact with the others. Some designs have more than one layer of the same color to get the effect that you are looking for.

 

On the file you have I would have the black as one complete layer then cut the yellow, red and white layers and have them on top. That way the back black layer can show through as outlines around the red etc. You could also make the yellow a complete layer and then cover it again with black to create the outline effect for the red but it gets to be too many layers. Hopefully you see what I am getting at. If the design is small then the yellow could be a little tough and the crescent moon touching the M and yellow line will need to be fairly precise. 

 

I am not at my design workstation so I can't access the design you have attached to see it in illustrator but I will look at it this evening when I get a chance. I am assuming the pdf file is still in full vector format.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have peaked my curiousity by using stars as registration marks? While realizing we are using different products, In Corel X3 one creates a box defining a perimeter around the project and from there launches a registration mark creator in CuttingMaster II which transforms the box into three registration corners for the ARMS to read. Are the set-ups that much different? With CuttingMaster II multiple colors can be on the same layer as when it comes time to cut, the option of which color or colors to cut is presented.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

edge, I placed the stars manually so I can use them to align my colors on the substrate or layer them on the release paper. It serves no purpose in Cutting Master 3.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Major improvement. I get files all the time like your first attempt and cringe. You picked up the idea faster than many do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you control air bubbles on multiple layers? I've tried everything I can figure, but I keep getting large air bubbles. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How do you control air bubbles on multiple layers? I've tried everything I can figure, but I keep getting large air bubbles. 

Are you stacking them up before install? I have had more problems with bubbles due to the transfer tape causing little bubbles at the layered edges when I stack colors. I stopped doing that and just layer them individually on at installation time on most of my own work and just pre-stack for folks who are self installing.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How do you control air bubbles on multiple layers? I've tried everything I can figure, but I keep getting large air bubbles. 

 

When you peel the app tape/vinyl away from the liner - flip it upside down and peel the liner away from the backing instead - that helps to avoid stretching the vinyl which leads to bubbles.

 

When it comes to working with strokes, I know in CorelDraw the function is Arrange > Convert Outline to Curve that will convert a stroke into an object that can be cut.  I know Illustrator has something similar, but I can't remember what they call it over in Adobeville...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Wildgoose, could you check my optimized file when you have some free time. I'd really appreciate it as I am anxious to start cutting. Thanks!

 That looks really good. The only thing I could find to even criticize was the lower run of text, the black behind the yellow should be knocked out of the red like what you did with the quarter moon and other white text. I suspect you just forgot about it or your testing me. LOL

 

I would personally round out the inside of the P where the line offset did its usual funkiness but that may not even show up unless you go big. I'd say you have figured it out perfectly! Not really that tough, when you get right down to it designing for vinyl is much less complicated than for print. No multiple fills or gradients, usually just a few colors to worry about which really don't matter other than to remind you which roll to grab for what layer. I often use light grey like you did the baby blue so I can see it on the what background of the workspace. I also often throw a color layer in the background similar to what I am going to be placing on, especially if its going on a colored shirt. Makes a big difference sometimes to help visualize and a good idea when sending proofs to clients. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this