OWJones

Latest zombie themed design

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Each week I try and make a different zombie themed shirt to wear to the Zombie Fest planning committee meeting.

 

This week I used a piece of free vector art from T-Shirt Factory on Jet Opaque II along with some white and red Siser Easy Weed on a dark purple FOTL 50/50 t-shirt.  The contrast looks really bad on the text and especially the bitten heart in this picture (taken while still laying on the press) but looks much better in normal room lighting...

 

The drop of blood coming off of his chin flipped up during the 1 second between when I could see it and when I couldn't.  The heat tape I've got couldn't pull the design off of the liner, and once I got the design peeled off manually, any attempt to bring the tape down on top of it caused it to want to curl up towards the tape, no matter how much I tried to dissipate any static...   Oh well, I still think it looks pretty good.  Really loving the opaque papers with my pigment printer, they always come out nice and clean.

 

The bright area around his lower lip is glare off of the transfer, I realize now that it looks worn away in the picture, but it looks fine without the glare...

 

post-24492-0-35856100-1373486525_thumb.j

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Have you tried bypassing the siser and cutting everything form the transfer

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Did you trim all the way around the outline of the design to get the edges so crisp and sharp?

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Very cool.  I read your thread regarding efforts to get this up and going.  Good luck with it, hope it is successful.  I always enjoyed Halloween as a kid.

Cal

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Have you tried bypassing the siser and cutting everything form the transfer

 

I had actually considered that - like I said, I've not had much luck peeling the opaque sheets off the liner with the heat tape I have, and I didn't want to have to manually line up all the text if I manually peeled it.  The Siser choice was based on laziness more than practicality...

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That's awesome. The more you keep at it just like everything else just keeps getting better. You'll start to remember the little tweaks we need to do as natural as second nature. Great tee!

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I've done some where I contour cut the letter w/ a contracting color to give me a little wiggle room for alignment but I also do most of the text w/ siser. I tried some intricate lettering the other day but I swear my blade is about to go out on me and it's only a month old. Once I get that issue squared away I'll see how it works. What are you using for the app. tape for 3g?

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I've done some where I contour cut the letter w/ a contracting color to give me a little wiggle room for alignment but I also do most of the text w/ siser. I tried some intricate lettering the other day but I swear my blade is about to go out on me and it's only a month old. Once I get that issue squared away I'll see how it works. What are you using for the app. tape for 3g?

 

RTape HotMask HM350 Medium Tack Tape

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I've been using Sisermask from us cutter and it's not too bad. Would like a little more agressive but I apply, flip image over and peel at a sharp angle and it works pretty good on the 3G.

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sisermask here too and no problems getting the opaque off its backing at all. Nice work to Jones, I also know where you got that artwork lol

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I bought the RTape for doing rhinestone transfers and I haven't been 100% happy with it.  I'll add a roll of SIsermask to my next order with USC...

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I started using it on hearing Dakota talk about it and so far so good.

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Tried doing as suggested with the RTape HotMask and this is what happened...

 

post-24492-0-83073200-1374715423_thumb.j

 

My order with the Siser Mask is due to arrive tomorrow... hopefully I'll have better luck...

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I thought siser mask could use a little more aggressive adhesive but after seeing the rtape I know why it isn't. I'm in the middle of 35 shirts right now with 3G and Siser Mask and all I can say is if you peel the way you show in pic the paper won't do that but go slow to ensure that everything stays on the Siser while removing the backing from the 3G.photobucket-3497-1374717155514_zpsb667d5

North, SC is black siser, rest is 3g including church name at top.

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I've been into zombies since way before they were cool. Glad to see someone doing something along those lines while making it fun for the general public.

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I have to agree about the siser mask, haven't had an issue at all, used it on 3G opaque, and basic opaque transfer paper. Your right Jay about it not being aggressive but got to admit, it releases nicely.

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When I use it in the hat press the mask usually comes up when I release the press, can't get much easier than that.

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OK so I'm learning something new here. You guys are using this "siser mask" to pull up opaque transfers off the backing then apply? I have definitely had trouble with getting them to lay out flat without curling up due to pre-heated shirt. I have so far limited myself to making a colored simple background like a cirle or oval around the whole boject so I didn't have problems with this. Gonna have to give this a try! :rolleyes: I really don't like the feel of the opaque transfers. I have mostly done transfers on white shirts with JPSS if I can convince my clients to stick with white.

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You'll love the no more curl. I hated dark transfers until I learned about Siser mask, now because of contour cutting the 3G we sell more dark transfers than jpss.

Check out www.facebook.com/jayplace for a couple pictures of 3G on finished shirts.

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I really don't like the feel of the opaque transfers. 

 

I grew up wearing t-shirts with heavy transfers on the front, so it seems nostalgic to me.  I have much better luck getting a high quality result with 3G Opaque or Jet Opaque II than I ever have with JPSS - I always seem to have one spot on every transfer that doesn't completely adhere with JPSS... :-(

 

I had to dial back the pressure on my cuts on the opaque material because I was cutting into the liner (I think adding a carrier sheet since my original dial-in is causing that) and when I when I would try to peel off the transfer with the heat mask, it was pulling the clay layer off of the liner along with the transfer - once I dialed it back a bit it seems to be going much smoother... /knock on wood.

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I grew up wearing t-shirts with heavy transfers on the front, so it seems nostalgic to me.  I have much better luck getting a high quality result with 3G Opaque or Jet Opaque II than I ever have with JPSS - I always seem to have one spot on every transfer that doesn't completely adhere with JPSS... :-(

 

I had to dial back the pressure on my cuts on the opaque material because I was cutting into the liner (I think adding a carrier sheet since my original dial-in is causing that) and when I when I would try to peel off the transfer with the heat mask, it was pulling the clay layer off of the liner along with the transfer - once I dialed it back a bit it seems to be going much smoother... /knock on wood.

 

I wonder of you have a cool spot on your press or something. I have never had a problem with the JPSS as long as I get the temp up good and hot (375* range) I had to buy an infrared thermometer to figure out my swing-away USC machine was quite a ways out of sorts. Its supposed to be in Celcius but isn't in either C or F, somewhere in the middle. Now that I have the right temp, no problems at all.

 

I have not done more than 10 or 15 opaque transfers but have done lots on white shirts. I have read that there is some real stretchy opaque transfers that used to be around but went out of business and are back now. Can't recall the name this second but I looked them up and had to buy 100 at a time so I am waiting for that BIG order to come before I go for it. the ones I have are Jet opaque and Jet opque II I think. Just kind of thick and crinkly feeling to me so I haven't pushed them on any customers. If they want a pic on a dark shirt I warn them so they aren't upset about the feel. I did spring for an Epson WF30 with the pigment ink cart from Cobra Ink Systems. That has made a huge difference in the quality of the tranfers and they seem to last great.  

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I wonder of you have a cool spot on your press or something. I have never had a problem with the JPSS as long as I get the temp up good and hot (375* range) I had to buy an infrared thermometer to figure out my swing-away USC machine was quite a ways out of sorts. Its supposed to be in Celcius but isn't in either C or F, somewhere in the middle. Now that I have the right temp, no problems at all.

 

If it was in the same area each time, I'd be inclined to agree.  I've done full page dye sublimation jobs and not had any problems with color development, and temperature issues would definitely show up there.  I'm thinking I may need to tweak the temperatures and times and not follow the instructions to the letter every time - I just hate wasting transfers and fabric trying to narrow it down...

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