Back lit signage question

[Busdriverfella 1]

Not a professional, just do stuff for the family and family business. Sis-in-law has a nail salon and wants me to redo her back-lit sign.

Question .. she wants yellow background with red letters. So .. do I ...

a. Paint the plastic with yellow translucent paint, then apply red translucent letters

or

b. Just cover the plastic with yellow translucent vinyl and then apply red translucent over the top

or

c. Apply yellow with letters cut out, and apply red in the spaces ( the more difficult option )

Thank you.

Also, if using GreenStar general purpose for vehicle windows, would white or matte white be the better option?

One last thing .. I have to say .. the 'newbie manual' was awesome and saved me a ton of time and aggravation. Very nice job.

[vinylmotivations 143]

You would have to use yellow translucent, with the numbers cut out of it, then cut red numbers to fit in the openings- and make sure theres no gap between or the white will show through. I would just overcut and plan on a 1/4 or 1/2 white gap around....

[OWJones 1,981]

You might also consider something like an opaque black border around the red letters - it will help add a little contrast to the letters as well as give you a way to safely cover any gaps.

So far I've avoided using matte on cars because I thought the matte would be more likely to get dirty - I don't have any actual data to back up that supposition, but I'm sure someone on here has experience and will let us know.

[mabscotthandyman 1,410]

You can also back paint the face with the translucent paints and of course you have to do every thing in reverse . This makes a very good job and professional looking job . Also there are companys that offer back painted faces they are not cheap though.

Dan

[Busdriverfella 1]

_{The black outline sounds pretty good, also sounds like a bear to get lined up!}

_{I supposed I had best start trying to get used to using registration marks and lining things up on the tape so it's all one application.}

_{Thank you for the input, every bit helps!}

_{Now when you say 'back paint the face' do you mean ..}

_{a. paint the back part of the sign in the background color (in this case, yellow) and then put the red translucent letters on the front,}

_or

_{b. paint the back of the sign in yellow and also paint the back part of the sign in red lettering}

_?

_{I like professional looking, but I couldn't paint a straight letter with a stencil!}

[Snapper 30]

_{The black outline sounds pretty good, also sounds like a bear to get lined up!}

_{I supposed I had best start trying to get used to using registration marks and lining things up on the tape so it's all one application.}

_{Thank you for the input, every bit helps!}

_{Now when you say 'back paint the face' do you mean ..}

_{a. paint the back part of the sign in the background color (in this case, yellow) and then put the red translucent letters on the front,}

_or

_{b. paint the back of the sign in yellow and also paint the back part of the sign in red lettering}

_?

_{I like professional looking, but I couldn't paint a straight letter with a stencil!}

I've shot thousands of square feet of plastic. Back painting is... you take your clear lexan spray grip mask on the inside surface and let dry. Make your pattern and attach on front. Set in front of a light source and x-acto in hand and cut. I'd shoot the red lettering first. Then you need to spray another coat of grip mask. ( Why?... you ask. Well red and yellow make orange so you can not just shoot right over it or it'll be orange when lite. ) Pull background after 15 minutes else you'll be re-cutting. Next shoot yellow .The trick to a good spray job is light coats and the white final coat. The truth is if your not into this for the long haul just have a wholesale shop do it. Just send them your design. The paint and thinners are expensive and so is the proper equipment and breather. The three colors plus thinner and mask will run over $350.00 and lets not forget the plastic. You'll be ahead of the game and have a proper job if you just farm it out. Or have them pick colors that you can just cut and place on white lexan. Even with a good respirator the smell of that paint will make your head spin.

[OWJones 1,981]

_{The black outline sounds pretty good, also sounds like a bear to get lined up!}

As opposed to perfectly lining up translucent yellow and red leaving zero gaps (leaving white space) and having zero overlap (and turning it orange)?

If you use an opaque black material, then you can cut the red a fraction small for the opening in the yellow and then lay the black outline over the gap and overlap both yellow and red a tiny bit to cover up any potential gaps.

[Busdriverfella 1]

I like the idea of just using yellow and red translucent vinyl with a black border around the letters to deal with the gap(s). Also, it should look pretty sweet.

Since it's for a relative, there's no way I'm going to spend $300+ to farm this out. I'd never recover it.

Also, I think I've figured out a great way to line stuff like this up, and if it works out, I'll post a vid.

Last question ( If you believe that, I have a bridge for sale! ) .. the plastic does not look like it comes out of the sign easily. They want me to do this with it in place.

How then shall I 'tuck' the sticky vinyl under the metal signs edges to prevent a big white light gap around the edges? Uhh .. without lines/creases. ( If that didn't make sense, I understand. It's tough to describe. )

[mabscotthandyman 1,410]

The face should have a retainer holding it in just take the screws out remove the retainer a.d slide the face out apply your vinyl and slide back in they are not really that hard .

Dan

[Snapper 30]

I like the idea of just using yellow and red translucent vinyl with a black border around the letters to deal with the gap(s). Also, it should look pretty sweet.

Since it's for a relative, there's no way I'm going to spend $300+ to farm this out. I'd never recover it.

Also, I think I've figured out a great way to line stuff like this up, and if it works out, I'll post a vid.

Last question ( If you believe that, I have a bridge for sale! ) .. the plastic does not look like it comes out of the sign easily. They want me to do this with it in place.

How then shall I 'tuck' the sticky vinyl under the metal signs edges to prevent a big white light gap around the edges? Uhh .. without lines/creases. ( If that didn't make sense, I understand. It's tough to describe. )

No if you farmed it out you'd not need to purchase all the paint. You pay by the square foot. Not knowing the size of the sign can't give you a ballpark. But you'll still have to shell out a bit of coin for the translucent not as much as paint by far. Now you'll have fun laying the yellow background. Go to the manufactures site and get their wet application mix and having a friend or two to help will make it go easier. The sign will have retainers that you need to remove once you do you can remove the face. As madscotthandyman mentioned. Also remember to cut back the yellow 1/8" from the edge of the panel and lay down a layer of clear 2" tape over the yellow around the perimeter to protect the vinyl from scratching and making holidays. Anyway have fun and post some photos when you get it done.