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US Cutter SC Series Troubles

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7212480936_9d9cb7c65d_c.jpg

http://www.flickr.co...kes/7212480936/

Here's the best looking cut I could get with my new SC plotter. This is at 300 for speed, 2 for pressure, and a .32 offset with a 45 degree blade, using SignCut on a Mac direct with a USB. You can see the nicks and the wiggly diagonals. I do high end detailed painting so my masks need to be perfect. I'm cutting Oracal 810S.... Any suggestions? Need a better plotter?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

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Looks more like an offset issue to me... Why is it so high? The package your blades came in should have the offset on it. Does signcut use MM or something? If I remember most of the off sets say .01" which is .254MM. adjust that accordingly and see what that does.

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Thanks for the replys. I oiled the blade holder and swapped the 45º blade for a 60º and slowed her down to 200. With the offset now set at .50mm, it started cutting the diagonals cleaner (not quite perfect but good enough) but even with the pressure set at 2g it's still punching/cutting through the backing and ripping the vinyl at every start and stop point...? the blade is extended about .25 of an mm at best.

The plotter also won't lift the blade when it's completed the cut until I hit the reset....

Thanks,

Chris

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Looks more like an offset issue to me... Why is it so high? The package your blades came in should have the offset on it. Does signcut use MM or something? If I remember most of the off sets say .01" which is .254MM. adjust that accordingly and see what that does.

I was at .25mm but the corners where rounded. With the 45º it sharpened up around .32-.35mm. Online I found some references for a .50mm offset with the Roland 60º blades. Minus the tearing issues, it's the best detials yet.

Thanks,

Chris

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I am not familiar with the settings on those machines at all so as far as the pressure I'm not sure what it should be at. The blade should cut through the vinyl and just barely graze the backing paper. Sorry I wish I knew more about signcut and the machine you had.

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with my new SC, I also was experiencing cut-through of the backing paper, at around 4g of pressure, which surprised me (my MH runs flawlessly at 50g) ---- I lowered it to the minimum of 1g, and have the blade nearly imperceptibly poking out of the holder.

What driver are you running?

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with my new SC, I also was experiencing cut-through of the backing paper, at around 4g of pressure, which surprised me (my MH runs flawlessly at 50g) ---- I lowered it to the minimum of 1g, and have the blade nearly imperceptibly poking out of the holder.

What driver are you running?

I actually just got off the line with support (very helpful) and fixed most things. I was running the SC-25 driver with my cutter out about .25mm. Now it's about .1mm ( barely perceivable with the eye) and I'm cutting fairly well around 70g for pressure but think I'll back it down a lot more as it's just starting to get wavy on the diagonal cuts. They had me switch to the Copam driver to fix some of the control issues with the software but after playing with it, it just created new ones. I can run the cutter and SignCut flawlessly via a PC but I really want to keep it running of my design computer / Mac. Basically, I have to reset the cutter after each file/job to lift the holder off the vinyl.

Less than perfect but I can cope with it now that I know it's more of a software/Mac issue.

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It has been at least 3 times that I decided I was using too much blade exposure in the past 5 years & started using less blade exposure after each time . Now I get rub marks on white vinyl when cutting from the blade holder . I still have marks on the backing paper . Most adjust too much blade exposure with pressure ( that is what I did ) & that gets VERY inconsistent .

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It has been at least 3 times that I decided I was using too much blade exposure in the past 5 years & started using less blade exposure after each time . Now I get rub marks on white vinyl when cutting from the blade holder . I still have marks on the backing paper . Most adjust too much blade exposure with pressure ( that is what I did ) & that gets VERY inconsistent .

The difference was night and day and over 1/1000s. I never realized how sensitive a cutter could be to such a failrly imprecise adjustment. I kept creeping mine up until I just barely couldn't weed my cut then advanced it just a touch. It fixed the nicks and a few other flaws. Amazing.

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I agree , I never thought about it until reading your post , but a micrometer could be used to measure how far exposed the blade is . It isn't that critical as long as not way to much exposed . Like you said , hard weeding is the only complaint for not enough exposure . With the way Skeeter has typed a zillion times :) ( take the blade holder by hand & press hard on vinyl until at most a mark is in the backing paper ) , that is close enough to do a great job .

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I agree , I never thought about it until reading your post , but a micrometer could be used to measure how far exposed the blade is . It isn't that critical as long as not way to much exposed . Like you said , hard weeding is the only complaint for not enough exposure . With the way Skeeter has typed a zillion times :) ( take the blade holder by hand & press hard on vinyl until at most a mark is in the backing paper ) , that is close enough to do a great job .

Solid advice. I actually use a mic all day but I think that accurately setting the blade at that tolerance without some sort of specialized micrometer would be nearly impossible. I like the vinyl method!!!! Keep it simple.

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To set my blade, I literally had to use a magnifying glass -- not kidding --

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I don't ever look at it to adjust it , I adjust it so a barely feel it & then do the cut by hand test . That works best for me .

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