BannerJohn

BLADE HOLDER INSTRUCTIONS FOR P-CUT

Recommended Posts

This pic shows the blade holder as it is when you receive it. You should have to do NOTHING except insert the blade. Push it in until it seats against the magnet that holds it. It should be sticking out a LOT. Turn the part marked in pic COUNTER- CLOCKWISE until only a very small part of the blade is exposed. Half the thickness of a credit card is suggested. You should NOT be able to see the entire angle of the blade or ANY of the straignt part.

I hope this ends some confusion,and a video will follow eventuallty.

My own brother  had been using in incorrectly for 5 months, so don't feel bad. Apparently it can be confusing if you have never used a cutter before.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the part that spins on the bottom to adjust depth suppose to be wobbly? When I get it adjusted to the correct depth, the end cap is only held on by a couple threads so its kinda wobbly, this doesn't seem correct, why is there not more threads?? Either something is wrong or its a crappy design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the part that spins on the bottom to adjust depth suppose to be wobbly? When I get it adjusted to the correct depth, the end cap is only held on by a couple threads so its kinda wobbly, this doesn't seem correct, why is there not more threads?? Either something is wrong or its a crappy design.

If you twist the end cap far enough, it may no longer be making contact with the rubber "O" ring, and would cause the wobbly. Make sure your blade is in all the way. We could always swap out your blade holder if yours is defective.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is making contact with the O-ring. The blade is in as far as it will go. I don't think its defective. I guess Im just wondering if its normal to have a little play in the end cap, not completely rigid?

I mean its not excessive, but it does wobble slightly. I don't know if its normal or not as I have never used or set up a cutter before. Seems a slightly bigger O-ring would hold it tighter- if it even matters.

I just want to make sure Im not going to break my new cutter lol. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, you won't break anything. It is possible the "O" ring is a bit too small, but if the unit is cutting fine, I would not worry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OMG!!!! I had the blade way out of wack I have had my cutter for a year and was disgusted with it but it turns out it was my own fault 1 single adjustment made all the difference in the world.... THANK YOU!!!!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK OK OK This is gonna sound funny but I received my blade backwards so it should look like what Johns Picture. So if it doesn't look like it take it  apart and make it look like the picture.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

Newbie here, does the 45 or 60 degree blade need to be oriented in a certain position within the holder before you screw it in, perhaps a peak of 45 blade facing forward?

I have been having trouble with rounded text since replacing my first blade (45), did I do it wrong?

I followed your excellent directions and don't notice any play, but the fine corners of my text cuts are not right.

Appreciations for advice in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This pic shows the blade holder as it is when you receive it. You should have to do NOTHING except insert the blade. Push it in until it seats against the magnet that holds it. It should be sticking out a LOT. Turn the part marked in pic COUNTER- CLOCKWISE until only a very small part of the blade is exposed. Half the thickness of a credit card is suggested. You should NOT be able to see the entire angle of the blade or ANY of the straignt part.

And also, once the blade depth is set, you shouldn't need to readjust it every time you change the blade, just push the pin on top until the blade protrudes. grab it, turn the holder upside down and drop in the new blade, the magnet will grab it and you are done.

I have two holders, one for 60 and one for 45 dig blades, the only time an actual adjustment is needed is when a job calls for thicker material. (remember to adjust it back before you start cutting thin material again :huh:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cannot get the blade to cut? It isnt going up or down when i go to cut, I tried changing the cut settings and the blade is not going down far enough to cut the vinyl, any help appreciated, new to all of this and having a tough time with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cannot get the blade to cut? It isnt going up or down when i go to cut, I tried changing the cut settings and the blade is not going down far enough to cut the vinyl, any help appreciated, new to all of this and having a tough time with it.

here is a newbie manual to go  thru.  download on first page

http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php/topic,17489.0.html

if you know that you have every thing else correct,  try this.   a test for most US cutters.  

1 - Turn the cutter off and unplug it from the wall. Remove the carriage cover (three screws) and get yourself a nine volt battery. You want to touch the terminals of the battery to the two solder points above the carriage motor (or to the copper ribbons). Don't worry about doing this wrong, you can't hurt anything. If you're able to get a good connection you will see the carriage arm "jump" and either raise or lower depending on which terminals you're touching. If you aren't sure if you're getting a good connection, try using a couple paperclips; hold them to the terminals on the battery, and touch them to the solder points. If it does jump, then you know the carriage electro-magnet is good. Now, is power getting from the Motherboard to the motor? step 2.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am not seeing the screws to remove? Also could there be a setting on the plotter that I need to fix? or something in my signblazer settings? I have the setting in sign blazer on 0 as I saw somewere that was what it was supposed to be on. as far as removing what you told me too, are you talking about the casing next to were the blade is mounted? I really cant see anyway to get into, used a flashlight and don't see the screws. thankyou in advance, for your information!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am hopefully going to get a new Carriage Arm for my PCUT Cutter. Does anyone have video or instructions on how to change my cracked plastic carriage arm? My cutter is approx. six years old and it is one of the best investments I have made hands down. No its not a Roland, but if you understand its limits you can make your return a lot faster on your US Cutter than you can with a Roland bill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now