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Bigned66

Graphtec help with small circles

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I am trying to cut very small circles (1mm in diameter) and channels (.25 mm) onto transparency film using a Craft Robo pro CE5000-40. My problem is that sometimes my circles do not connect. I found out that the offset is what fixes this problem. So I changed my offset to +2. This did the trick on the circles but now my channels are very sloppy around the edges. When I put my offset back to 0 the channels looked fine once again and the circles didn't connect. It seems that I have to either choose to have nice circles, or nice corners. Is there any way I can get nice circles AND good corners? Also, some circles come out fine, and others don't. How can that be if they are drawn identically in my illustrator software?

I have looked into many of these forums and found people who had similar problems with small circles. They solved their problems by changing the pressure, offset, and overcut. Unfortunately they used different models and had different settings. They were told to set offset to .025? I only have -4,-3,-2,-1,0,+1,+2,+3,+4 what do these mean and how can I convert these settings to the proper .025?

Also, what is overcut? Will it help my problem? Lastly, I also read that pressure should be set to 105. My cutter goes by "force" instead of pressure and my settings go from 1 to 31. Whats the equivalent of 105 in pressure units?

My settings are as follows: Blade: CB09 UA, Force: 31, Speed: 5, Quality: 1, Offset: +2

Let me know if you need pictures of my problem. Thanks for you help

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how thick is that transparency film? does it have a backing to it? You can't consider the US cutter vinyl cutter settings to a Graphtec. totally different machines. I have never had to change my offset off of zero 0 to cut anything perfectly.

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also I only run at speed 5 or 6 for very large 8-10 ft long graphics. turn your speed down to about 2 for those tiny little things. and probably a 60 degree blade would help. Is for intricate designs. I cut mostly 2-3 mil vinyl, and my force is at 11, So Force 31 seems pretty high to me. Sounds like you need more blade, less force. You can take the blade holder out of the machine,and with it in your hand, cut across a piece of scrap vinyl really hard, if you are making marks in the paper backing, your blade is out too far, it should be able to cut your vinyl, with no problems and barely a mark in the paper backing. Put the holder back in the machine and adjust force, so you get the same effect. Cutting vinyl perfect, barely a mark on the paper backing.

my normal settings are CB09 blade, force 11, speed 5-6 for large 8-10ft graphics, 2-3 for small detailed. offset 0, quality 3. I make all my adjustments on the computer Graphtec Cutting controller. The only thing I ever change for different vinyls, or size of the order is speed and force. I have never had to change anything in over 3 years. When I change a blade, I back the force back down a bit, and all is good. If blade is getting a little dull, I will up the force and cut a while longer to get more use out of the blade before I change it.

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The transparency film is about .1mm thick. My design has three of these circles. One of the circles comes out perfect every time while the other two circles will either not connect or have little nicks or 'hang nail' looking things in it. These circle are literally copied and pasted, why would they not come out the same?

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I have tried the force at every single level. I am doing an experiment on what settings make for the smoothest cuts. I have a design and then I look at these pieces of film under a strong microscope. I have honestly tried every combination of condition settings and blade length to see what makes the smoothest cuts. None of these combinations yield consistency in my circle quality and channel quality. Would a 60 degree blade make for a smoother cut as well? Do you already know what settings would yield smoother cuts?

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The transparency film is about .1mm thick. My design has three of these circles. One of the circles comes out perfect every time while the other two circles will either not connect or have little nicks or 'hang nail' looking things in it. These circle are literally copied and pasted, why would they not come out the same?

you should not have to use force 31 to cut .1mm film, way to high. I already explained how to set your blade in the blade holder. More blade, less force. If you have to look under a microscope to see flaws, then they probably aren't that bad. LOL a 60 degree blade is for detailed designs.

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Skeeter, I appreciate that you keep checking back here and adding to your response. I'd like to leave with one more question. You mentioned that you only use the graphtec cutting controller to make your changes. What are the benefits to using that?

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easier........ I never change the settings directly on my cutter. just the tracking length on pre feeding the vinyl. It's all right there in one shot on the cutting controller, no reason to run thru a menu and screw something else up.

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I have tried the force at every single level. I am doing an experiment on what settings make for the smoothest cuts. I have a design and then I look at these pieces of film under a strong microscope. I have honestly tried every combination of condition settings and blade length to see what makes the smoothest cuts. None of these combinations yield consistency in my circle quality and channel quality. Would a 60 degree blade make for a smoother cut as well? Do you already know what settings would yield smoother cuts?

don't take this the wrong way!! but this is your problem. the way you are looking at the cuts nobody would ever do this. set you cutter back to factory settings and start there.

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with a force of 31 your dragging thru the cut with too much force, drop your force back to about 10, and more blade. slow the machine down to 2... offset zero 0

Is your finished work going to be seen with a microscope?

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The reason force is so high is because these channels are so small that i cant weed them out. I essentially cut out a square and a bunch of circle and channels inside it. Those channels have to stay stuck to the carrier sheet when I peel off the square. If i have to use a razor to weed them out then I will messing up the smoothness of these corners. A very high force setting is the only thing that allowed this for me during my experiment. I've already seen most of these through a microscope, but if the circles don't connect then I cant accurately measure the smoothness of the inside because I have to go in with a razor and pick it out (which leaves the hang nail effect).

I understand that no one in the forum uses there cutter for anything like this. But I have never used a cutter before so any insight that you guys have is useful to me. I shouldn't be asking you guys how to make cuts smoother- that is my experiment and my problem, what I am asking is how can I get these circles to connect (the blade does not finish in the same spot it started when making a circle), while still keeping my channels in straight lines.

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If you have the blade at the correct depth, they should cut correctly, (you need more tip of the blade to cut with). without that much force. With that much force you are probably forcing the film into the backing.

What are you calling a channel? I think you need to post pictures of what you are trying to do.

personally I use a needle for weeding small detailed designs

not much more I can help you with.

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Well I appreciate all your help skeeter. Channels being two cuts, and pull the middle out so its like a road. I'll post a picture a little later.

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Well I appreciate all your help skeeter. Channels being two cuts, and pull the middle out so its like a road. I'll post a picture a little later.

grab an exacto knife, metal handle. if you don't have one. and several blades. I buy a box of #11, 100 blades , a lot cheaper and last a very long time.

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