Mario

Etching beer mugs

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I was wondering what type of vinyl to use to etch beer mugs. Is there a good video out there that can walk me thru the process.

Mario

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probaly not on the reuse - if it has any detail how would you pick it back up . . . and the sand is going to thin it - vinyl is cheap 

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It comes down to your wisdom of vinyl cutting and sandblasting on glass.

 

I love it.

 

My fear now is of expensive glass, like crystal.

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I have only used scraps for my etching, as long as the graphic fits the piece its good to go. And I just hot water to remove the vinyl.

 

Ditto!

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I never thought of the warm water idea. Took me about 30 minutes to remove the Greenstar vinyl I used for some glasses the other day. Will keep this in mind.

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It comes down to your wisdom of vinyl cutting and sandblasting on glass.

 

I love it.

 

My fear now is of expensive glass, like crystal.

I sandblast mirrors Daily.. well, maybe every other day.. But when it comes to Crystal, Use Armor Etch.. its a etch cream.. the champagne flutes I do for wedding gifts, I use armor etch, its 20 bucks at hobby lobby.. or you can get a 22 ox bottle on ebay for about 25 bucks..

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Currious as to why you suggest that? Is it something about crystal and sandblasting, or the fact that it's a curved small surface? I've used Armor Etch on some beer mugs. Not bad, my only complaint is I'd the etching to be just a little bit deaper nad occasionally I'll get a small spot that I didn't get cleaned good and the etching cream won't etch it, at least not as well as the surrounding area.

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more control, less chance for error, especially on a set of $200 flutes.. there so fragile, I just don't like putting them in a blaster.. I use Armor Etch, pretty much every chance I get.. With aluminum oxide, you take the chance of just a few grains, getting hidden amongst the masking, and take the chance of scratching the project during damask... It isn't the deepest, but on Flutes, your not going for a Deep etch anyways..

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The trick to Armor Etch is to ignore the instructions and leave it on significantly longer than they recommend.  I used to leave it at least 20 minutes before cleaning before I started just blasting everything.  I don't do $200 flutes (yet!) so I haven't had to worry too much about breakage...

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Yeah, I've played around with different times and there really is not any noticable difference that I can see in the etch from 5 min to 20 min.

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Making sure the Surface is clean, and going heavy.. not trying to save the stuff.. you go thin, it shows.. even heavy coats, seems to work well for me.. I honestly have had no real issues with the stuff.. Other then when I first started, I tried to skimp, and it showed.. now I just figure in half a bottle per mirror, and that always covers the cost..

 

I just find that it is cleaner as well.. My blaster, (Harbor Freight Special) is not exactly air tight either, so I don't care for the taste of Aluminum Oxide in the Air..

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The trick with Arrmour etch is to repeatedly alter the direction you go over the etch areas with application brush. This ensures that all areas on the glass are covered. Another trick is to heat the solution by putting it into a hot water for a while.

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