Mario 2 Posted February 8, 2011 I was wondering what type of vinyl to use to etch beer mugs. Is there a good video out there that can walk me thru the process. Mario Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
towman208 38 Posted February 10, 2011 i use my 651 orcal never had any problems 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ff-extreme 6 Posted February 10, 2011 Ive found sand blasting mask is a little easier to remove than 651 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted February 10, 2011 even paint mask Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
luis gutierrez 9 Posted November 6, 2012 651 oracal is the best...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadHatterGraphix 1,258 Posted March 30, 2013 I read somewhere using removable vinyl. Is this only due to you can reuse it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dakotagrafx 7,297 Posted March 30, 2013 probaly not on the reuse - if it has any detail how would you pick it back up . . . and the sand is going to thin it - vinyl is cheap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MadHatterGraphix 1,258 Posted March 30, 2013 Ok that's what I thought might just try it tomorrow night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Markk077 21 Posted March 31, 2013 ORACAL 631 is fine for sandblast. Truth is, any mask is, if you have the touch with the wand. Keep it moving. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Markk077 21 Posted March 31, 2013 It comes down to your wisdom of vinyl cutting and sandblasting on glass. I love it. My fear now is of expensive glass, like crystal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cowboy_1_831 28 Posted March 31, 2013 I have only used scraps for my etching, as long as the graphic fits the piece its good to go. And I just hot water to remove the vinyl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xpaperman 719 Posted April 3, 2013 I have only used scraps for my etching, as long as the graphic fits the piece its good to go. And I just hot water to remove the vinyl. Ditto! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ravenwind / One Off Grafx 187 Posted April 3, 2013 I use 651 also and to get it off easy just run it under warm water and it usually comes right off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RustyXj 8 Posted October 3, 2013 I never thought of the warm water idea. Took me about 30 minutes to remove the Greenstar vinyl I used for some glasses the other day. Will keep this in mind. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WiL1978 46 Posted October 4, 2013 It comes down to your wisdom of vinyl cutting and sandblasting on glass. I love it. My fear now is of expensive glass, like crystal. I sandblast mirrors Daily.. well, maybe every other day.. But when it comes to Crystal, Use Armor Etch.. its a etch cream.. the champagne flutes I do for wedding gifts, I use armor etch, its 20 bucks at hobby lobby.. or you can get a 22 ox bottle on ebay for about 25 bucks.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darcshadow 1,626 Posted October 4, 2013 Currious as to why you suggest that? Is it something about crystal and sandblasting, or the fact that it's a curved small surface? I've used Armor Etch on some beer mugs. Not bad, my only complaint is I'd the etching to be just a little bit deaper nad occasionally I'll get a small spot that I didn't get cleaned good and the etching cream won't etch it, at least not as well as the surrounding area. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WiL1978 46 Posted October 4, 2013 more control, less chance for error, especially on a set of $200 flutes.. there so fragile, I just don't like putting them in a blaster.. I use Armor Etch, pretty much every chance I get.. With aluminum oxide, you take the chance of just a few grains, getting hidden amongst the masking, and take the chance of scratching the project during damask... It isn't the deepest, but on Flutes, your not going for a Deep etch anyways.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OWJones 1,981 Posted October 4, 2013 The trick to Armor Etch is to ignore the instructions and leave it on significantly longer than they recommend. I used to leave it at least 20 minutes before cleaning before I started just blasting everything. I don't do $200 flutes (yet!) so I haven't had to worry too much about breakage... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darcshadow 1,626 Posted October 4, 2013 Yeah, I've played around with different times and there really is not any noticable difference that I can see in the etch from 5 min to 20 min. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WiL1978 46 Posted October 4, 2013 Making sure the Surface is clean, and going heavy.. not trying to save the stuff.. you go thin, it shows.. even heavy coats, seems to work well for me.. I honestly have had no real issues with the stuff.. Other then when I first started, I tried to skimp, and it showed.. now I just figure in half a bottle per mirror, and that always covers the cost.. I just find that it is cleaner as well.. My blaster, (Harbor Freight Special) is not exactly air tight either, so I don't care for the taste of Aluminum Oxide in the Air.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icomstock 4 Posted January 13, 2016 The trick with Arrmour etch is to repeatedly alter the direction you go over the etch areas with application brush. This ensures that all areas on the glass are covered. Another trick is to heat the solution by putting it into a hot water for a while. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites