I started the homemade screen press

[sarconastic 29]

I was in my work shop the other day after looking at the plans online about how to make your own 4 color 1 station press. I guess I got the bug, I started it today, I will post a few pics when I get some more of it done. I couldn't find a lazy susan like the plans called for so i had to build one out of some plates and a flat roller bearing I had laying around.

Now I need a supplier for cheap screens and the rest of the materials. I should have the press done next week if i have to time to work on it. I am contemplating adding micro-registration to the heads, but not sure if I will need it.

I figured I would build the wood version first then, after I use it a while I will build a steel version, this way i know what I need to do differently.

Kevin

[American And Proud 2]

You can get different sized "Lazy Susans" from Rockler or Woodcraft woodworking stores. 

[midwaste 4]

You won't necessarily need micro-reg, but it will save you time on multi-color prints.  Which plans are you using?

Suppliers:

http://www.rhinotoughgraphics.com/  <<  The best wood frames you will find, at the lowest prices, oddly enough.  Damn good squeegees too.

http://www.valleylitho.com/acatalog/Valley_Litho_Supply_Screen_Printing_Supplies_181.html <<  Union inks, Ulano emulsions.

http://victoryfactory.com/film.html <<  The best, cheapest inkjet positive films at low qtys

^^Those are the ones you really need, below are a few others that have various goods and bads

http://richardsonsupply.com/  Good supplier, but they don't carry all the stuff I need

http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/  I don't really like this company, as they try to push "beginner kits" down peoples throats, but they do carry a good selection of stuff like discharge inks in small sizes, foils, etc.  Don't buy into their kits, presses, or stupid inkjet RIP packages.

You're welcome. 

[sarconastic 29]

I am basing it loosely on this site, but I am making improvements to it.

http://www.printingplans.com/

The lazy susan I made is much more precise and durable than the one you can buy. It's also tension adjustable, so you can tighten it up as things wear in or loosen it if it's too tight. The company I work for does contract work for NSK Bearings and they gave us some out of spec flat roller bearings that are about 3" in diameter but only 3/32 thick, and have a load capacity of hundreds of pounds. I just built the rotisserie out of those. I haven't built the arms yet, but am considering making my arms out of steel instead of wood. then I could do more with location of the screens.

I already had a metal stand with a wood top to mount it to, so I have just had to work from there up. The main part I don't like about these plans is the 2x4 they use to mount the shirt platen on. It doesn't allow for any adjustment for alignment. I was thinking I should try to copy another manufacturers arm then I could buy their platens to mount on it.

What would you recommend I get for start up supplies? Remember I am doing this in my basement. I would liek to be able to do 2 color shirts to start with then more at time and money allows. Also what inks etc that require the least amount of chemical cleanup etc. I have found starter kits for $400 or so but it looks like they have a lot of crap I won't need, at least right now. I'd like to get into it for between $100-$200 with a couple screens Squeegees, trough , A few colors of inks, and the cleaning supplies. I have a wash out sink I will put in there , I do need to make a light table for flashing the designs on, but that won't be a problem.

Also what mesh screens should i get, and what inks for them. Most prints I will be doing will be 1-3 colors, Some with fine detail, but not planning on any gradient stuff yet, it's out of my league. I do want to be able to do some Choro signs too, and maybe some small posters as well.

I'm going to use my heat press for drying right now until i can come up with something better.

Any other tips would be helpful. Just like the cutter, I am diving in head first to see if I can get my feet wet. LOL

Kevin

[JLDesigns 1]

Definitely let us know (with pictures) I've been contemplating this venture also, with the plans you mentioned.  I'm excited to see if it's feasible!

[midwaste 4]

Good call on using a better lazy susan bearing.  Most of the ones that I have seen for chairs, etc, have lots of slack in the bearings.

If you make the arms out of steel, you may have to change the spring tension a bit, but it's a good idea.  It'll be easier to mount clamps and micro-reg to a steel arm than wood (assuming you can weld?).

You shouldn't have to adjust the platen, as long as you get it centered under the arms to begin with. 

As far as startup supplies, here are my recommendations:

Yellow light bulb for coating screens under

14" scoop coater

1 Quart Ulano QX-1 emulsion (personal preference, but it's widely used and works well for both plastisols and water-based inks)

Emulsion remover - destenciler

Inks - I really like Union Ultrasoft inks.  They are easy to print with and leave a soft hand, almost close to water-based.  They are, however, listed as "medium opacity" and not designed for use with very dark shirts, but I have had no problem with them on darker colors.  You'll probably want to get some white, I don't really have a recommendation for this, as I have yet to find a white I like..  White is a whole 'nother animal to print..

2 70 durometer 14" squeegees - i recommend getting the aluminum handles, they are much easier to clean

Frames - 110 and 155 are the most common meshes.  20x24 is the most common size, and is perfect for use with a 14" coater and squeegees.  110 is fine for most things, and you can get good detail with it, but sometimes it will leave a heavier hand on the shirt.  155 is best for colors, but can be a bear to print white through.

Hose with a sprayer end for your washout sink

Degreaser - Greased lightning, Simple green, etc.

PRESS WASH - I use Lawson PW-305, but there are soy-based that are not as citrus-smelling.  Save yourself time and just buy some.  Yes, you can save money and use mineral spirits/paint thinner/gasoline, but they will not work as well, period.  Just buy some, you'll appreciate it.

Lots of paper towels - I like Viva the best

Paint stir sticks - use for creating off-contact with your screen, stirring inks, applying inks to frame, etc.

Clear packing tape - I use the Duck brand from Walmart, it's like $1/roll.  Don't bother with the expensive screen tape.

Hair dryer - Useful for drying screens quicker

Several empty spray bottles

-One with water to mist your screen after burning to begin washout

Are you going to go the 500W halogen burning route?  That's what I used for a while, it takes about 15 minutes to burn a screen, though.  Have a fan blowing on it keeping it cool while burning.

How are you going to print your positives?

Printing on coro is a whole different story than garments.  It requires much higher mesh screens (305+), different inks and different squeegees.  The inks are solvent-based and stink.  Supposedly you can use QX-1 emulsion for solvent inks, but only for a short run.

You also have to hold the coro down with a vacuum table or something similar.  To do a standard 18x24 coro, you will need larger screens.

As far as posters, you can just use water-based inks, available at craft stores usually.  You can just tape the paper down and print.

You should get very acquainted with the t-shirtforums.com.  There is a ton of info over there that will help you, including a pretty long thread about those press plans.

[gooddeal 0]

A swivel for a boat seat has worked just fine vs a lazy Susan. You may also want one of your stations to be covered with a 16 x16 floor tile. You can flash on the other three , heat the tile and use it as a final dryer. We used to burn the screens with a ultra violet fluorescent bulb  [ BBY ] in a home made light box. We ordered bulbs from Bulbman in Reno Nev. I suggest that you adapt one arm to screen print signs.

[CherokeeDesign 0]

That's amazing.  I've considered getting into screen printing in the past, but the cost always kept me from doing it.  I love making stuff like that, and I even have welding gear (if the steel arms are a better idea).  One of my friends has a complete screen printing setup, but I'd love to have my own equipment.  I might try this myself.  Thanks for the post!

[sarconastic 29]

I finally got some pics of the press for your eyes. I have already found a few things I have to upgrade. The angle Iron I used on the arms isn't strong enough. it flexes way to much. It was something i had on hand and just gave it a try. I am having some 2" x 3" square tubing cut and I will make it a channel and mount my screws to it. much stronger and i think i can weld up a neat little micro system for it, just gotta figure it out in my head.

I went ahead with the wood arms, I planed them to fit in the alignment bracket just perfect so repeatability should be ok for a while. The wood arms are only 8" long so the warping and twisting I was worried about isn't a big deal.

I am however going to make a steel platen mounting arm. there are just too many variable with the wood arm. The board I used is very straight for wood, but still had a minute twist in  I didn't see. I will make platen alignment a bear. I am going to try and get some pics of a standard commercial version and duplicate it as near as possible, that way i can add the platen height adjustment under the platens.

I made my first platen out of an old White board I had laying around. it should work pretty good.

these show how I made the bearing using the flat bearings I have. I used 16 guage galvanized sheet steel to make a smooth surface for the bearing ride on so it wouldn't wear in to the wood. just drilled holes int eh corners and brad nails them in place.The top bearing is from an old stretch wrap tensioner. I needed a spacer to align the bearing in the center of the carriage bolt i used as a center, so i found a hole saw the right size and cut it out of 1/16" lexan then drilled the center hoel the right size. It works great, you can set the tension with the lower nut and lock it in with the double nut. This is way more precise than the lazy susan and I have 8 or 10 more to replace them if I have to.

Ir rotates very smooth and precise, you can adjust it to freewheel or so it has a bit of tension so it will only go so far when you flip the arms around.

The center  up stops i made adjustable too by putting them on the bolt. In the evenet I need to use a larger screen I can raise or lower it to prevent interference.

I also added adjustable stops on each arm, underneath, not sure if this is going to be needed, but it seems like a good idea. I did this before I decided on changing the platen arm to allow for more adjustment for off contact.

I will post ore after I finish a few more things. I was going to work on it today, but I had a show with my band last night and I haven't quite recovered yet 

[sarconastic 29]

For this hole project so far I have spend only about $30 in hardware. Some of it I had laying around, and some I pick up at various locals shops. Thew biggest problem i had was finding 8 of anything for the springs and adjusters. everyone had either 6 or less. so i had to make a few trips around. And on the springs, i had 2 that were a little shorter than the other 6, but heavier gauge wire to comp for it. I just had to adjust that one a little different. I figure when I am done I might have $50 in the press itself.

[sarconastic 29]

MIdwaste,

sorry I didn't reply to your post directly last night, I was whipped by the time I got the stupid pictures the right size to post. LOL

You reccomended Union Ultra soft inks. One Question I had was the difference between inks. I was thinking water based would be better for me, thinking water based clean up would be better than too many chemicals, but then I read a little bit, Now I am confused. Some inks require a catalyst , and you then have a limited shelf life and you have to pitch them. other you scrape right back off the screen and put back. I have watched more video tutorials int eh last week than I care to remember, all of them use a different process. Same goes for emulsions? are there emulsion that don't have to have the two part catalyst. If I am only doing a couple screens I wouldn't think I would need a whole pint of it.

gm grapghics are by far the best prices on screens, and their 20x24" 110 mesh are on sale right now for $14 for the aluminum. I am going to order 4 of those today.

I was planning on using the 500 what halogen to burn the screens., I saw pretty kewl stand made from PVC that gave me a few Ideas. Also I am going to try and print on my Laser to start, I am a little concerned with the opacity of my laser units, so i will have to experiment a little. If it doesn't work right I will probably pick up an epson 1100 for it.

Haven't figured out the best way to dry yet. I have the heat press that I have heard some use, but the time is pretty long on it. my main thing is to get the press completed and try it out with minimal supplies and see if I even want to do it. I just think it will add another thing I can do in the winter months when things slow down a bit.

Thanks for the input.

Kevin

[midwaste 4]

Waterbased inks are somewhat more of a PITA, even though it seems like they would be easier.  First of all, you have to worry about the inks drying in the screen, so you have to do a flood coat between prints to keep the open design mesh covered.  And you still have to worry about the inks drying up over a long run, some people mist it with water.  Also, "waterbased" does NOT mean they clean up with soap and water.  There are press washes for WB inks, same as plastisols.

The only inks that require a "catalyst" are discharge inks.  These inks sort of bleach the fabric (not exactly, but thats an easy way of explaining it) and leave absolutely no hand behind.  You have to mix some of these crystals with the discharge base, and the lifespan is about 8 hours.  It stinks, bad, but this is the technique used by Affliction, Ed Hardy, etc.

Plastisols, for being sticky and messy, are really the easiest to work with.  You don't have to worry about them drying in the screen, and you can scrape extra ink back into the container.  They take a bit of getting used to cleaning up, but after a few, you'll fly through it.

You still have to cure WB inks as well, albeit at a lower temp.  Most people use either a flash or a heat press to set WB, which greatly impacts the longevity/fading.

As far as emulsions, you can put the excess emulsion from your coater back into the container, no matter which kind it is.  I prefer SBQ emulsions, which are pre-sensitized.  Dual Cure emulsions require you to mix a small bottle of sensitizer in and stir it up, but it's no big deal.  You need to have an excess amount of emulsion in your scoop to get a good coating on the screen.  This will take practice..  You will ALWAYS have leftover emulsion to scrape back in.  The smallest size you can get is a quart, which is what I would recommend.  The shelf life on SBQ emulsions is 6-12 months, depending on environment.  Don't put it in the fridge, no matter what you hear.

Using your laser printer might work ok, but you may have to print two positives and overlap them.  Good transparencies (i.e. not Officemax) make a big difference.  Having said that, I used the 3M office store transparencies for 6 months before I finally got some good inkjet film and they worked ok.  An 1100/1400 with good films is niiiice..

Sounds like curing is the only thing you don't have figured out.  Keep in mind a heat press is going to distort some of your images.

Get an old kitchen oven!

[sarconastic 29]

I got it 99% done, at least for this stage. I redesigned the clamps, so they are stronger and made it adjustable as far as tilting to help with adjusting off contact. This way should make is easier to set on thick to thin items. There is Bottom screw that is adjustable to set the arms' height, then a turn buckle that will re-level the screen to the platen. I also made the bracket that hold the clamp with slots so i can tweak each clamp right to left in case the wood arm or the platen arm would happen to warp  a little bit.  I figure for a starter press it should be ok. Later I will build steel arms, and add micros to the ends of those.

Here are some crappy camera phone pics of the finished products. I don't have my screens yet so I mounted some coro in the arms to get an idea what it will need for space. It takes a lot less room than I anticipated. I think I may have the arms at a little too steep of an angle, so I will have to adjust that down. Now just gotta spend a bunch of money to see if I want to do this or not LOL.

Thanks everyone for your input. THis was kind of fun to build. Now I can try the Vinyl on a screen to print if I want lol.

Kevin

[sarconastic 29]

some more

[midwaste 4]

Looks good, man!  You will almost definitely have to lower the angle when they are up, or build something for your squeegees to lean on, or they are going to fall out onto the center.

One thing I forgot to mention, if you do order supplies, get the waterbased platen adhesive in a bottle.  Mix it 50/50 with water and spread that on your platens with a foam brush and let it dry.  Spray adhesive sucks and it will make your press a filthy, furry mess in no time.

[sarconastic 29]

Yeah I had read about the spray adhesive mess, I am putting together an order for the basics I need tonight. I just wanted to get it completed before I committed. :-)

What's wild about building these is every time I got a piece done I ripped it off, and decided I could do it better. I have already decided I am going to make the arm alignment brackets over. I am going to add screws to it to adjust left to right and keep the tension better. Just in the building process, the wood arms have worn a small amount to allow left to right play. It's only about 1/64" but it bugs me.

Just adding the tilt to the clamps made a huge amount of difference in how hard it was to set the off contact height. I was trying to figure out how to do it with the platen, and this was a heck of a lot less trouble. it gives me a couple inches of adjustment. Which should allow me enough room to figure out a hat platen.

Kevin

[Dakotagrafx 7,297]

beautiful job on the build sarconastic!

[midwaste 4]

You may end up saving yourself some time in setting off-contact by just using shims on the screen, rather than trying to adjust this at the press arm.  It's going to be very difficult to control the off-contact by the arm alone at the far outside of the screen, pretty much impossible with a wood structure.

I'd try just taping washers or paint sticks (what I use) to the bottom of the screen in the appropriate area.  Using this method, you can get a good off contact at the back of the screen from the press arm, but still maintain and adjust the off-contact and screen snap at the far edge without majorly stressing your press arms.

Have you seen the design of the Ryonet add-on micro-adjustment arms for their silver press?  They stole the design that someone posted on the TSF, it's a good design.  I wouldn't buy them obviously, but there are some good pics online on how it works.

[sarconastic 29]

If I get a chance tonight I will do a video of the off contact adjustment on the press. By making the clamp tilt with the turnbuckle, and having the arm height adjustment bolt under the arm. off contact  is almost dead nuts every time, and very fast to adjust. I was worried originally about the play having wood arms, but it has turned out to be moot for the most part. The arms themselves are only 8" long, so there isn't a lot of room for movement. and the Spring and turnbuckle tension adjuster hold the arms back towards the spinning assy so there is almost zero play. I also think since I used MDF for the Rotating assy, with the precision bearings, it removed a lot of play that would otherwise be there from regular plywood like the plans call for.

I did a dozen or so cycles rotating and dropping into position and raising with a frame I had in my shop, It was an old cabinet front I had made but not finished and it was 24w x 28T and it repeated  dead nuts every cycle. Still a good idea taping the paint stick to the end of the screen though, then I wouldn't have to worry at all. Thanks for that.

Oh BTW, I placed my order on the frames last night from GM. They called this morning to apologize to me, they had put in a 10% off on all frames, but it hadn't updated on the website yet, so they changed my order to reflect the new price. so I got the 20" x 24" 110 mesh alum frames for $12.59 each. and $16.25 for the 155 mesh frames.

Yeah I saw Ryonets micro clamps. $109 per arm? Yeah right lol. Welder and me, $25 for all of them lol.

I am going to put the list together today for the supplies I am going to order, I will post it on here and let you review it, to make sure I got everything I need. Thanks for the help.

I am sure once I get into this I will feel overwhelmed, but that's normal for me, dive in head first them figure out to swim in it.

I was looking at pallet adhesive ont eh site you gave me, and there are several kinds, Some require flash dryers to work right others don't say one way or another. Which were you recommending?

Kevin

[midwaste 4]

GM rocks.  Ryonet sucks.  There have been some problems with those micros too, but supposedly they have it all fixed.

The adhesive I use is :http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/site/799934/product/CCProBondP.  I'm not sure if I bought it from SSS or not, though.

None of the adhesives require flash dryers to work right, but there are some that are made for use with flash dryers, where the glue is expected to get a lot hotter on the platen.  Using regular spray adhesive and flashing on the platen will make it VERY difficult to get the shirt off.

Looking good, man.  You'll be printing shirts in a week or so.

[sarconastic 29]

I built this unit today, I already had the light and spent $10 on pvc and fitting. Is actually a lot sturdier than i thought it would be. It should get me by until i need to upgrade.

Kevin

[bizzytop 1]

Excellent work sarconastic, i have been watching your post, as I to am trying to do screen printing myself, I am going at it a little different, I went ahead and purchased the press from ebay $250 - 200432796099  I just purchased the screens from GM as well, and am trying to figure out all the other items that I need so your post has been very helpfull.  Please do post the supply list when you get a chance as this well help me as well.   I purchased the screens and squeegees and the emulsion spread thingy, but have not purchased any of the inks or emulsions itself.  was trying to figure out what to go with.  Also I need to bulid me one of those PVC light holders, that looks great, And still have to figure out what to do about the flash drying of the the inks, I only have a heat press as well and the darn flash dryers are over $250 for the cheap ones. Anyway keep up the updates this is very helpfull....

[sarconastic 29]

I didn't order the trough spreader from gm, I almost did, I found it at another supplier for a cuple bucks cheaper, and it came with a cover to put on it between coats. Midweest posted the link to them earlier, they are where I am going to get the union inks etc from, Valleylitho was the place.

I am going to have to wait a few weeks to get the rest of my supplies though. Was walking behind my car today and realized I had forgotten to renew my tags on it, from Nov LOL. anyway, with penalties it lower my balance quite a lot.

It just gives me more time to build a screen rack/ drying cab. and a few other misc supplies I will need. The more I learn about this the more I find I need to get it done.

I think I will probably have to break down and buy that $250 flash dryer unit, I just can't find anything home built that I like. I don't have room for a belt dryer right now, and don't want a big oven in there either, I am too lazy for that kind of wiring work right now. I will probably built a small belt dryer eventually though. I saw a couple of pretty kewl plans for them. and I have a few parts laying around like the gear reduction unit etc.

I'll keep the updates on here as they progress though.

Kevin

[bizzytop 1]

I know what you mean on the funds side, when i started I though I would have $1200 to start this up, after a few purchases and a few set back i am down to almost nothing.  Like they said S@#$ happens and so we have to adapt.  I will probably buy a flash dryer next as soon as the funds come available.  Then I will buy the inks and emuslion.  In the mean time like you I will probably build the screen box, and the lamp light holder thingy like the one you build.  That should not cost much but time.

[midwaste 4]

Did you take the glass out of that light?  Do it if you haven't, it blocks UV. 

There are some good photos of screen racks online, I just screwed 2x2's to the corner of my garage with the spacing just right and the screens hang there perfectly.

Sarc, what flash dryer are you looking at for $250?  Hopefully its a IR panel and not a coil type..

Post the links to the plans for belt dryers you have found, if you would.  I have seen some sweet units on TSF, but no plans.  I am currently building one from an 18x18 Intek panel, a section of roller conveyor and a motor/controller from a treadmill, but I'd love to see some plans to inspire me to work on it..