jeremySI 18 Posted September 13, 2009 trying to etch a pilsner glass and was wondering if anyone had any tips on setting up the image to be able to apply with the changing of the circumference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 13, 2009 Let me know when you get an answer. I just bought Armour glass etching. Unfortunately the contours around the glass left creases in the vynil so even after I flattened it as much as I could some etching fluid seeped under the vynil and I ended up with mouse ears in one of the letters! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bamafan2277 50 Posted September 13, 2009 I haven't done any pilsner glasses yet but I did do some champange glasses for my cousin's wedding. The thing I found easiest for them with the contour was heating the vinyl with a hair dryer and rubbing in well to make sure it stuck down well. That seemed to help the few area's I had trouble with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 13, 2009 Thanks for the tip, I'll try it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeBlow 5 Posted September 14, 2009 Try using Paint Mask, it's a lot more flexible than vinyl. Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 14, 2009 How does paint mask work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremySI 18 Posted September 14, 2009 hmm around the same price as oracal 651 for mactac. ill have to pick some up and try it out. is this the stuff you see that looks kinda like rubber a lil. the cutouts you can get next to the armour etch at a hobby store? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeBlow 5 Posted September 14, 2009 Paint Mask is made flexible for applying to curves & valleys, it's removable and doesn't leave glue residue. Applied right you wont get any paint seepage under the edges. There's quite a few paint mask posts here on the forum, here's one as an example: http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php/topic,16973.0.html Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 15, 2009 Thanks for the info I bought some paint mask from signwarehouse ( sorry us cutter , but I owed them I bought my cutter from you). I'll let you know my results as soon as I do something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeremySI 18 Posted September 15, 2009 sweet gonna pick me up some too. what brand did you get Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 16, 2009 Spray Mask - 15 inch x 10 yds NP - White Being not too familiar with this I hope I got the right one! the other style was "Perf white" don't really know the difference but I'm in my learning curve here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeBlow 5 Posted September 16, 2009 The brand I'm using is "Aslan" Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 16, 2009 I Don't know that brand Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted September 16, 2009 +1 on warming the vinyl up and stretching it as well as possible. Thanks all for the tips on the paint mask, I usually just use the cheapest vinyl I have around. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeBlow 5 Posted September 17, 2009 Guys one of the main attributes of any Paint Mask is it's removal, it leaves no glue residue and will peel of much better than vinyl. The only reason I use "Aslan" is because I was given a sample to try and found it did everything I needed it too do. I find it's fairly thin and quite flexible and also cuts very well. Here's some information on it, I have no connections with "Aslan", I am only user of the product. http://www.aslan-schwarz.com/product_info.php/language/en/info/p233_ASLAN-85-P.html Joe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beardown 0 Posted September 19, 2009 All you have to do is cut apply and blast that is it. I tired different pressures to see what the vinyls blast through pressure was and it is around 140 psi....you and etch at 40 so no need for anything elaborate .......like i said ....cut ...apply ....and blast Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 19, 2009 I finally got the paint mask It's better than vinyl, but I'm still having trouble with contours and leaks. If I'm going to do this professionally it's got to be near perfect if not better than. What sandblasting setup do you use? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted September 21, 2009 Practice applying vinyl will help. Also, try to keep the blaster as perpendicular to the surface you are blasting as possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 21, 2009 Hi Midaste, What blaster do you use? I'm not interested in a full cabinet but a small portable unit would be great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted September 21, 2009 I was using this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93221 But, I got tired of wasting media and making a mess, so I bought this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42202 It works ok, but siphon feed is notoriously low in efficiency and you have to constantly move the siphon tube around. If I did more etching, I would plumb a pressure pot into the cabinet. I also made a simple water filter system, described here: http://www.cuttingedgesandcarving.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11570&st=0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wwpro 1 Posted September 21, 2009 midwaste, I bought the same cabinet and the 40lbs pressure pot, and I'm using Black Diamond abrasives 48-80 grit, but I have little to no media flow. What media are you using ? I had better luck with the cabinet and the siphon gun I made the Tee modification recommended on the cutting edge forums, but still same crap. I'm gonna have to try much finer media I guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted September 21, 2009 I'm using the 80 grit AO from HF. I have to keep moving the tube around in the bottom, it seems like it works best if it's only about half submerged. You might try using a larger nozzle if you aren't getting any media flow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wwpro 1 Posted September 23, 2009 Pent the money today and bought 50lbs of AO 220 at Grainger. Made a couple of mugs right away and is excellent. Need to work some of the bugs of the pressure pot and find a way to adapt a smaller nozzle, the one that I have now is around 1/8 and is gonna keep getting bigger with use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lueman 19 Posted September 23, 2009 This is all very informative, thanks! Would an airbrush work? Is the grit too big for that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
midwaste 4 Posted September 23, 2009 I wouldn't use an airbrush unless you want to destroy it. They sell small airbrush-like tools called "air erasers" that use very fine media for blasting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites