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Can someone explain the etching cream? How do you apply it? When and Why would you put it on? These mugs, can you put them in the dishwasher?

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Guest Schramm

Here is a sample mirror that I sent to a client today to approve his bars logo prior to me doing the full scale version.  With a sandblaster this took me

about 3 minutes to blast, pull off vinyl, clean, seal and admire.  Etching cream cant touch blasting HOWEVER if you are just starting out etching cream will give you a chance to do work and make some money before you take the leap!  Complete set ups cost in the upper 1000's and it just never seems to end!

Rob

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Guest Schramm

The fastest and best way to apply etching cream to a flat surface is with a plastic spoon and once the 15 minutes has past you can squeege it off and re-use it.  You need to have it on thick to properly work.  I used it a lot in grade school and really liked the look and it was what got me interested in sandetching due to the amazing speed.  I love to blast mirror as you get a different effect blasting the front (3D) then when blasting the back (more engraved).

Either way it is not at all hard to surface etch and once you have that down you can start to understand some of the differences.

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With the etching cream you take your design and cut it out in vinyl. Instead of pulling off the vinyl around your design you basicly pull your design away from the rest of the vinyl. Leaving a negative image.

Once your image is ready clean your class and apply the vinyl to the glass.

You then use a paint bursh or something to apply a layer of etching cream a.k.a. Acid. Wait about 3-5 min depending on the cream and wash it off.

Then just peel off the vinyl and admire your work.

The mugs are dishwasher save becasue the acid actually burns down the surface of the glass.

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Guest Schramm

I have my own stuff to seal it (trade secret) but you can use rain X which works very good short term (small items no worry)

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Guest Schramm

You can do a positive or a negative pull with etching cream but doing just the image itself is much easier and doesnt really become too blotchy.

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Guest Schramm

when you sand etch you are chipping away at the glass, because of this you are making the glass raw which allows hand oils, dirt and other contaminates into that surface.  By using a product like Rain X you are putting a clear barrier which will keep from this happening.

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What kind of pricing are you charging for the mugs??

I was thinking of the following

1 = $8

2 = $15

3 = $21

4 = $26

Each additonal would be $6.

My cost are $1 per mug, etching cream and a little scrap vinyl. so not over $2 ea.

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Guest Schramm

Personally I think that you are selling yourself short.  You should go up in multiples of 6 or even a case of 12.  Here is what I mean, if they want just one done then charge $13-15

6 - $10 ea

12 - $8 ea

18 - $7 ea

24 - $6 ea

anything over 24 would be $5.50

For all the set up you need to do for just one you need to make the most.  Think of it this way, say you are going to buy something that you really like that is personalized but you only wanted 1 wouldnt you think that $15 is nothing to pay?

Another thing to keep in mind is that those prices should only be on stock art and if they want there art done on them then you need to either go up in price OR charge what everyone else does which is a one time art charge of say $45.  I mean I pay it when I want things done so they will also pay it.

Now these are only suggestions, you need to do it your way however I think that you are selling yourself short.

By the way have any of you tried BIG LOTS?  I dont know if you have them where you live but I think that you can pick up cases of mugs for like $.50 each

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I have my own stuff to seal it (trade secret) but you can use rain X which works very good short term (small items no worry)

do you sell your sealant?

bb

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Those that are using the cream...im not getting a constant look to the "etch" once I wash the cream off.  Im putting it on pretty heavily and I even tried leaving it on longer than the 5 minutes it recommends.  Its just not a constant etch...

Any ideas?

Thanks

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Guest Schramm

I guess I could but you can simply use Rain-X locally and it will work.  On small items such as mugs you dont really need anything and if you are only using etching cream the issue is not that bad.

I will say I got a little motivated to play with blasting some mugs and put my company logo onto them to give them out to my customers.

Rob

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Guest Schramm

Those that are using the cream...im not getting a constant look to the "etch" once I wash the cream off.  Im putting it on pretty heavily and I even tried leaving it on longer than the 5 minutes it recommends.  Its just not a constant etch...

Any ideas?

Thanks

Aaron,

Watch this little video by "Ask the Decorator", you have a better way to cut with your plotter but she is going to show you the correct way to apply this to flat glass.

Practive FLAT and then work your way up.

NOTE TO ALL:  If you set up a number of projects at one time you can use, squeege and re-use the cream on at least 4-6 projects before it does not etch that well.  Keep in mind to squeege off and not add water which neutralizes it.  Next, if you are doing large areas of open space I promise that it will look blotchy even if it is perfect.  Also do not go to far past the time posted on the bottle for the product that you are using.

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Thanks for the vidoe. Im doing exactly what she is.  Amount used..thickness, etc.  Only difference is im doing glasses and not using a flat service.  I guess I just need to keep at it and see why its not a consistent look.

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Guest Schramm

See if you have a local stain glass shop in your area.  Alot of time they have sandblasting cabinet and equipment.  You may want to just call them to see if they will allow you to rent the use of the cabinet for when you have work.  Personally I wouldnt but that is only because I have so many things going on in my shop that are my trade secrets that make my stuff stand out that I just cant risk people knowing what I am doing.

Good possibility they might, once you try sand etching over chemical etching you will be buying equipment or trying to find it less expensive.  If you need help figuring out what you need post it here or better yet start a new post with your questions and email me so I know it is there.

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I have a guy who does amazing things with wood.  He is in the process right now in making me a cabinet with a glass viewing side, holes for the gloves, etc.  Just need to find a inexpensive "gun".

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Guest Schramm

Well you may want to consider and air compressor as well! ;D

You dont want a gun you want a pressure pot which takes 6 CFM of air to make work.  You blast at 40psi with 70 to 100 grit.  I like both black beauty and aluminum oxide.

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Yeah I figured that and that is why I put a little  ;D at the end!

What size is the compressor?  For a sphyon system you will need 10 CFM at 90 PSI and for a pressure put you will need 6 CFM at 40 PSI.  At some point you will want to use both as they both have things that they are good for.  The sphyon system you can do frosting, etching and shading as the you have a trigger on your gun that is easier to control.  With a pressure pot you dont have as much control until you get use to it but you can frost, etch, deep etch and carve much easier and much faster at a lower CFM and a lower PSI.

You may already know that but just thought I would toss it out incase you didnt.

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You've been more than helpful, thank you!

I have 20 gal Craftsman that will go up to 150psi.  Should work ok.

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AAron,

Look on the information tag on the compressor and tell me what the CFM is.  PSI doesnt mean as much as CFM as that is the cubic feet of air that the unit will use up in 1 minutes time.  A 20 gallon tank I would guess is 6 CFM at 40psi which is the bare minimum for a pressure tank which is what you are going to want with the cabinet you are getting built.  If it is not enough to keep up with it you will just simply need to stop and then resume once pressure is built up again.  That really is no big deal on small projects but a total PITA if you are doing a front or a pantry door.

Rob

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TP Tools has all the equipment/parts for your homemade blast cabinet.   www.tptools.com

I may be different from ya'll, but I don't give any quantity discount. The cutting, masking, blasting, washing etc. is the same amount of time, work, and materials, for one or a hundred. But that's just me. Of course I don't do just one either, 10 minimum. Unless you're a hot babe, then I envoke that exception to the rule clause.

Aaron, you're going to find out, your compressor doesn't put out enough CFM's to run a blast cabinet for long without cycling continously. Of course the quicker it burns up, the quicker you can get a decent compressor. You don't need but about 20-30 lb. of pressure for etching glass, but a lot of cfm's, for a cabinet gun. You may want to check into a "Pasche Air Eraser", that's what I use for almost all my small etching.

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