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Found 12 results

  1. Hopefully this becomes a sticky but the latest FTDI (Future Technology Devices International Ltd.) VCP (Virtual COM Port) drivers for both the COPAM and IOLINE line of cutters (it's possible more cutters use the FTDI drivers too and if so, then these will work for those cutters also) available on Windows, Mac and Linux (More operating systems available on their site. All versions including 32-bit and 64-bit) can be downloaded at http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm Be sure to look at the far right Comments Section of the table to find the link named "Available as a SETUP EXECUTABLE" to download to have the easiest way to install the drivers. There are installation guides for all OS's too. Note: FTDI VCP drivers work for all Copam and Ioline Smartrac series of cutters. These drivers are constantly updated. Check back occasionally to refresh your drivers.
  2. Since yesterday I can not start my Copam CP-2500, when I turn on the screen begins to blink and makes a noise like a clock, somebody have an idea of what is happening? Please help me Thank you
  3. Hello, this post will be a work in progress as I brainstorm (and fumble) my way through a process to make a working media basket for my Copam CP-2500 vinyl cutter on a low budget. The goal here is to get others to make a similar media basket for their cutters, regardless of brand (unless they've purchased a factory stand that already includes a media basket). I'll edit this post to be more concise and proper once I work through some design challenges (like how to mount it to my existing stand), what sizes and dimensions I'll use etc. It is not intended on being an instructional article per se (at least off the start), but rather a bit of motivation for others to use to make one themselves for their cutters. We can also brainstorm and post ideas on how to overcome design challenges and make improvements since others may have better ideas than myself. This post may be rewritten as a "How To" though if I make some satisfactory progress in the period of time to come. Running cost total so far: $19.99 CAD So far the materials I've sourced out include: 1 - IKEA shoe rack called LUSTIFIK for $7.99 CAD that I will disassemble and cut and drill accordingly to make the basket frame and arms. There are ample metal tubes included in this shoe rack as it is. It will easily fit a 38" or longer (or shorter) plotter stand since the pipes can extend horizontally or lengthwise depending on how you're positioning them. Also, IKEA sells these metal tubes separately in their Drapery section of the store for $1.99 or more (I can't remember what the larger tube piece cost). I will need to buy two more "arms" in the future so I have 4 in total (you get 2). 1 - 54"x84" 60% Polyester and 40% Cotton Window Curtain for $12.00 CAD from a discount merchandiser for the basket material. I wanted a material that was as static friendly as possible in it's blend since we all know that static and vinyl cutters are no fun and pure Polyester is a static unfriendly material. I looked this up on the web and I was led to believe that the more Polyester blend, the worse off you'll be since it holds a negative static charge. Cotton on the other hand seems to be neutral in static charge. The material had to be strong enough to take some abuse but not heavy enough to cause other issues. I'll obviously need to get someone to cut and sew this material into a suitable looping "W-shaped" basket but that's where I'll employ my Mother to help I also chose a brown color for the basket since my Copam is beige and the store didn't have a black curtain available at the time I was buying. I have attached some pictures of what I've got so far and I'll add more pictures as I go along... I have also attached some images of a USCutter stand (from this website) so those images are Copyrighted by USCutter and all credit goes to them accordingly. I'm sort of emulating the USCutter stand as a template to work from. My plan is to cut the curved/rounded sections of the bars exactly in half to make identical sections for the front facing frame section as well as for the rear facing frame section. The arm extensions simply slide into the curved pieces as well. I'll need mounting brackets of some type too and the goal is to slide the basket arms forward and backward as needed to allow room for the media to come off the cutter into the basket. Of course, I think they should be able to retract so not to take up space when not needed. Anyhow, this is Day 1 of my design challenge. I'll post more as I progress. Stay tuned! Your comments and feedback (good or bad) are encouraged. Let's make this design something functional and decent but not too "ghetto looking".
  4. I'm just posting this in the Copam section in case it helps someone in the future getting their CP-2500 cutter to work via USB connection in SignGo 1.20 FD (or just Light or Pro version without dongle) in Windows 7 64bit (It will work on 32 bit too). Long story short, it turns out the default settings for the driver are incorrect. So when you install the Copam CP-2500 driver during initial installation (or even Generic HPGL drivers) there needs to be a modification made to the END: form input field under the Commands tab to get it to work. By default it comes with PU;IN; (Pen Up and Initialize) commands in that field. The correct settings for the cutter to cut via USB connection are PU;!PG;; (notice the exclaimation mark and TWO semi-colons). After that, it will work. For the record, here is the thread I worked through with SignGo's author Kevin Wallace http://www.signgo.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1452052124/10#10 to solve this problem. Note: in order to get the CUT icon in the SignGo GUI (graphical user interface) to not be greyed out and be enabled and to subsequently be able to adjust your cutter settings, you need to draw something on the canvas first so use a square or star and put it anywhere on the canvas. Then you will be able to select the Cut icon and from there it's pretty evident with what I'm talking about adjusting commands. Here are ALL the Commands for the Copam to work via USB connection (notice the bold End: area) Initialize: IN; Start plot: PA; Start cut: PA; Reset: IN; Move: PU#,#; Line: PD#,#; Bezier curve: (BLANK FIELD) End: PU;!PG;; Set origin: PU;PA#,#;PG0; Set depth: (BLANK FIELD) Set speed: VS#; Select pen: SP#; Get plotting area: OH;PU; Get Head Position: OA; UNCHECKED BOX for Uses Multiple Points In Line Command and therefore its Start line, Continue line and End of line fields are greyed out. However, it does also work with the BOX CHECKED for Multiple Points In Line Command too. Also, when you install your COM# (# being a number assigned by the computer), make sure your port settings in the Control Panel > Device Manager > Ports on Windows 7 are set to 9600 Bits/sec, 8 Data bits, Parity None, Stop bits 1, and Flow control is set to Hardware. In SignGo's Communication Tab: Make sure things are set to 9600 Bits/sec, 8 Data bits, Parity None, Stop bits 1, Flow control DTR/DSR is checked and RTS/CTS is checked. XON/OFF is NOT checked. Timeout is 60 seconds. This should help get things working.
  5. My copam 2500 has been turning off and on. As soon as I power it up it automatically (at about 1-2 second intervals) continually goes off and then on, and the carriage tries to move further to the right as it comes on and then it shuts off to start up and do it again. We have replaced the carriage and it didn't change anything. Do we need a new motherboard? I thought it was a communication error with the computer, but it does it regardless of whether or not it's hooked up to the computer. Any help would be appreciated!!!!
  6. My Copam CP-2500 started asking for Paper Type when I turn it on. When I select "No" so It doesn't measure, the head does not move to the left. It gets stuck on start position on the right, even if I send something to cut it just move vertical and the head goes up and down. So now for some reason I have to let the cutter measure so the head can move to the left but not all the way since it measures until the pinch roller. How can I set the cutter to move freely without measuring first as before? Thanks in advance.
  7. I noticed that there aren't any more Intermediate 30" cutters offered. The two that used to be available --- ZEN and COPAM --- are no longer sold. Now, there is only a $600 model TC 31" and beyond that there's not anything until you jump to the Graphtec 8600 30" model, for $4200. (The Graphtec 6000 series has no 30" size and the FC8000 shows out of stock in 30")
  8. SewDarnHot

    Help converting SignBlazer image

    My copam is not able to cut what i need it to and customer support will not help me without a phone line so after hrs of designing something for the perfect fit I cant cut it. So I am looking for help. Can someone take my signblazer image and convert it into scal or at least to an svg file. Pretty please!!I have a cricut and can at least use that with multi cut and get it done. Dad Face PlateJune15_2013_a.SBD For some reason my signblazer will not export the file.
  9. xobeckaxo1

    Copam Help!! (please :) )

    So I recently posted about going from an MH to something else I ended up with Copam 3050. I came into the forums read around got it set right cut a good 10 decals turned it off for the night. Come back on today and now it either says it's cutting and it's not doing anything or I have been trying to cut something 15x30 and it's jumbling it (cutting it ontop of what it's already cut) on a 12x12 portion of the vinyl. I slowed down my speed, lowered everything like some forums suggested to get it going that's how I got it running today. Now i'm confused. I run Sure Cuts A Lot Pro never had an issue like this....
  10. Newbie, Just purchased a Copam 2500 to use with a Windows 7 Pro 64-bit PC. Installed all the software from the CD correctly using the USB cable. Even though we are going from USB port on Compam to the USB port on the PC, it installs a usb to serial driver. The driver says it installs correctly and assigns a com port - 3. When we open Sure Cuts A Lot Pro - updated and activated from the website - it doesn't recognize the device. If we go to menu item Cutter then Cut with USCutter , select the correct port and model (Copam) then click Test Connection - nothing happens. Verified the virtual com port settings are correct and tried multiple USB ports - same issue. Anyone else having issues connecting this unit to Windows 7 64-bit? thanks
  11. kelliann

    Extra Blade Holder for Copam

    I am thinking of purchasing an additional blade holder for my Copam. I use vinyl of differing thicknesses, and spend a lot of time getting the blade in the perfect spot. I thought it might be good to have a blade holder for thin vinyls and one for thicker ones. I was just going to purchase one from US Cutter's page, but took a quick peek on eBay. I noticed that the one US Cutter has doesn't look anything like the one that came with my machine, and it costs $50. On ebay, there is a huge variety, and they look similar to the holder that came with my machine, at a fraction of the cost. I tried to call and talk to US Cuter support, but sat on hold for too long. So, I am hoping that you all will give me your perspective....I do have a few questions, Are the blade holders very specific to each brand of cutter? Any one know of another blade holder that works with the Copam? Thanks.
  12. I am curious- I am ready to buy this week and I am a newbie but have been reading for a while. I would like to buy either the copam 24in or the zencut 24in. (zencut color is ugly- geez). I have a mac pro 8core with mac Flexistarter 8.5 v2 on my home computer (bought from uscutter last summer- got some vinyl as well) and I intend to cut vinyl so I can make signs. This will be my main cutter for a while as I grow - I do want to make this into a full time business at some point. {In regards to above and below: Not sure how contour cutting comes into play here - but maybe someone could guide me. } I also want to make designs that can go onto t shirts and hoodies. I need a heat press as well (want swing away) and 120 power. Be nice if I got one that in the future can work with hats - don't think I would do mugs, buttons anytime soon. Thanks in advance.