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Found 152 results

  1. I'm trying to figure out what to charge to physically apply vinyl to an awning, for a business. The Awning is 20'x7' and the vinyl length in total is 13.8' x 4.5'. The vinyl is broken up into sections, as it is mostly verbiage. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
  2. ANGPrint

    Outdoor Vinyl- advice please :D

    Hello Everyone! I am hoping that someone can just kinda give me some simple straight forward advice on vinyl choices. I started my printing company about a year ago and every time I think I have this stuff figured out something happens to make me realize...I indeed, do not. I have a lot of requests at the moment for outdoor yard signs and then some more permanent type of signage on establish MDO boards. I want to be able to offer good prices but being so new I am afraid that if I go with a less expensive vinyl that it will somehow just slide off the coroplast in the middle of the night. hehe. So- anyway...I have been using Orajet 3551 with 215 laminate for anything vehicle. What is the cheapest material that I could get away with for yard signs that for the most part will be disposable for the customer. And for the more long term outdoor signage that isn't vehicle..what is the best to use for that? Thanks for any knowledge you can send my way. And if anyone out there that wants to be my mentor and field my questions on a daily text basis just let me know. Thanks!! Angie
  3. Hello, this post will be a work in progress as I brainstorm (and fumble) my way through a process to make a working media basket for my Copam CP-2500 vinyl cutter on a low budget. The goal here is to get others to make a similar media basket for their cutters, regardless of brand (unless they've purchased a factory stand that already includes a media basket). I'll edit this post to be more concise and proper once I work through some design challenges (like how to mount it to my existing stand), what sizes and dimensions I'll use etc. It is not intended on being an instructional article per se (at least off the start), but rather a bit of motivation for others to use to make one themselves for their cutters. We can also brainstorm and post ideas on how to overcome design challenges and make improvements since others may have better ideas than myself. This post may be rewritten as a "How To" though if I make some satisfactory progress in the period of time to come. Running cost total so far: $19.99 CAD So far the materials I've sourced out include: 1 - IKEA shoe rack called LUSTIFIK for $7.99 CAD that I will disassemble and cut and drill accordingly to make the basket frame and arms. There are ample metal tubes included in this shoe rack as it is. It will easily fit a 38" or longer (or shorter) plotter stand since the pipes can extend horizontally or lengthwise depending on how you're positioning them. Also, IKEA sells these metal tubes separately in their Drapery section of the store for $1.99 or more (I can't remember what the larger tube piece cost). I will need to buy two more "arms" in the future so I have 4 in total (you get 2). 1 - 54"x84" 60% Polyester and 40% Cotton Window Curtain for $12.00 CAD from a discount merchandiser for the basket material. I wanted a material that was as static friendly as possible in it's blend since we all know that static and vinyl cutters are no fun and pure Polyester is a static unfriendly material. I looked this up on the web and I was led to believe that the more Polyester blend, the worse off you'll be since it holds a negative static charge. Cotton on the other hand seems to be neutral in static charge. The material had to be strong enough to take some abuse but not heavy enough to cause other issues. I'll obviously need to get someone to cut and sew this material into a suitable looping "W-shaped" basket but that's where I'll employ my Mother to help I also chose a brown color for the basket since my Copam is beige and the store didn't have a black curtain available at the time I was buying. I have attached some pictures of what I've got so far and I'll add more pictures as I go along... I have also attached some images of a USCutter stand (from this website) so those images are Copyrighted by USCutter and all credit goes to them accordingly. I'm sort of emulating the USCutter stand as a template to work from. My plan is to cut the curved/rounded sections of the bars exactly in half to make identical sections for the front facing frame section as well as for the rear facing frame section. The arm extensions simply slide into the curved pieces as well. I'll need mounting brackets of some type too and the goal is to slide the basket arms forward and backward as needed to allow room for the media to come off the cutter into the basket. Of course, I think they should be able to retract so not to take up space when not needed. Anyhow, this is Day 1 of my design challenge. I'll post more as I progress. Stay tuned! Your comments and feedback (good or bad) are encouraged. Let's make this design something functional and decent but not too "ghetto looking".
  4. Today I am cutting Vinyl lettering for a trailer. I am using Adobe illustrator to create my layout and then sending it to Sure Cuts Alot 3 Pro to cut on my Titan 2. The first file cut some of the text higher than the rest of the word. I decided to start all over with a fresh file and even arranged things a bit different. The same text is cutting out offset each time and then some are and some aren't. I created outlines in illustrator before sending to SCAL. Any idea why this might be happening? I have a customers vehicle here for install and need to figure out ASAP!
  5. ddonley

    Cutting vinyl

    I have just purchased the US Cutter SC Plotter. and Sure Cuts A Lot 3. The cutter is not cutting the right direction. I am cutting "Growing in Grace". It is 15 inches in Hieight and 120 inches long. It wants to cut it across the vinyl. I have changed direction with my mat and it does not make a difference,,,, cuts the same either way. Not sure what I am doing wrong
  6. I am working on a small project for my wife, some vinyl typography applied on the second surface of glass. The silver leaf is used within the vinyl lettering. The problem is I am using two layers of vinyl to make up the letter forms and when I apply the mona lisa metal leaf adhesive it seeps inbetween the tiny gaps of the vinyl layers as its a liquid glue (like watered down elmers glue really) and leaves a glue stain which can be seen through the glass, it also doesnt seem to adhere the silver leaf very well but thats probably my lack of skill lol!. Im wondering what kind of glue should I be using - I was thinking of using some kind of spray on glue but it needs to dry optically clear so it doesnt make the silver leaf look drab- anyone have any suggestions for this. I could buy the oracal 383 gold leaf and easily evade all of these issues but I like the look of the silver leaf, plus i really only need a small amount. if only I could get to work for me :/ any suggestions would be a great help. Thanks
  7. Hi, I noticed that when my plotter is cutting the vinyl, it scratches it while moving from one point to another. I tried troubleshooting by adjusting the needle, the up_speed, pressure, and baud rate. I finally tried pressing the vinyl down with my fingers while cutting and that helped. So now I want to know how I can keep the vinyl as flat as possible on the plotter. An even better solution would be to allow for the needle to go up higher when moving from one point to another. Any suggestions?
  8. I've always wanted to have a custom shirt shop and I would love some input from anyone that works specifically with vinyl. I'm literally starting from scratch. I need to get a solid vinyl cutter w/ software compatible with my Mac. Reliable and precise and I'm willing to invest as I know you get what you pay for. Also, the reason I was going to focus on vinyl heat transfers only is because I don't want to worry about ink fading. Any ideas, suggestions or comments are appreaciated. I was looking at purchasing the Titan 3 but then again, I've just begun doing research on heat presses and vinyl. Warranty, repair fees and maintentance are things I still have to look into as well. Glad to be a part of this forum, thanks again! Side Note: I'm a new dad and my son turned 1 year old this year and I'm the only one working since my wife recently lost her job. Being able to earn that extra income for my family is what is driving me to make this buisness a success.... - Rick
  9. Hi, " I want to start a small online business on Etsy and sell my designs as (small wall decals and car stickers: max 8*8"). I need some help with cutter and vinyl choice: 1. I did some research for "desktop vinyl cutter" and finally I decided to buy Cricut Explore (air) print and cut. Before buying I want to make sure that it is a good choice: a. Can it do a good quality print on vinyl (ex Oracal 631) for colourful designs b. what other options I have (other than silhouette cameo) with the price range of 300-500$ c. Is it a good choice if I print and cut 10-15 stickers per week? (durability of machine;blades,etc). 2. For wall decal I will buy Oracal 631. Tell me if it is not a good choice. 3. For car stickers I don't know which vinyl I choose (waterproof and lasting at least 5 years) 4. I live in Canada ... Is there a trustable and famous company I can buy supplies and cutter (other than ebay and amazon)
  10. mondoboi

    Best transfer tape for me?

    So I am part of a Huge car club and I create and make my own Decals for my cars, it got the attention of the club president and now wants to use me as his source for the clubs decals. I have done decals and just used transfer tape from hobby lobby. I want to get some good stuff and a large amount. Since I am doing car decals mainly for windows or wherever they stick them what would be the best transfer tape for me to buy. club president wants to buy from me in bulk, and I use oracal 651 as my vinyl of choice. what will be best since they may sit and i will not be doing the applying for anyone.
  11. Yellowframedesigns

    Crazy question

    I'm cutting rolls of vinyl usually anywhere from 12 x 12 to 12 x 24 on my cricut explore air the problem I'm having is trying to place the rolled vinyl onto the tacky cricut mat, is there anyway to get the vinyl to flatten out?
  12. wickedstangs

    Adding Numbers to Team Shirts

    How much do you charge to put just number on a Team Shirt? Example below
  13. I've read quite a bit online about choosing a cutter, and understand that the general concensus is "you get what you pay for". Here's my context: -buying it for a non-profit -need to be able to cut 36"x48" vinyl pieces out to mask 3 seperate light box signs. (so a 40"+ cutter to get clean 36" strips is what I've been told is minimum) -primarily signage that will be placed on walls and windows -not a ton of little details work, mostly lettering at least 2" high -budget: would love to stay under $1k if possible Any insight? I've been trying to pull the trigger on this for 2 months and honestly am discouraged it's taken so long to get it figured out. Would love some clarity Thanks!
  14. finegirl

    Titan 3 or...

    I am trying to finalize my search for an upgraded cutter in the next 24-48 hours. I have been using the Cricut Expression for 6 years and it is a complete workhorse for the vinyl I have done. I need a bigger and more capable machine, as most of my jobs now require it. At heart, I am still just a girl who likes scrapbooking and making stuff. So, I am intrigued and giddy over the KNK 24" Maxx Air...but the majority of items I cut is strictly vinyl. I like the print and cut feature, I like the ARMS and contour...is the motor a true factor? Is there any comparing these two machines or is there a clear direction I should go? Does the Titan 3 cut a wide variety of items well? engrave, etc?
  15. Laurisa

    Roland GX-24 Cutting Issues

    Hi All, A little new to the world of cutters and vinyls still. I bought my Roland cutter second hand from a family member. Eventually, it came time to change the blade. Some of my dinosaur clip-art was showing need of dental work. Small things didn't cut well, and the dots on 'i's began to peel up. I watched some tutorials, then braved up to changing my blade with one of the Roland Cemented Carbide blades that came with the machine. It is a 45 degree I am fairly sure. I moved the blade force down to the recommended 60gf for the Premium vinyl from Stahls and moved the pen force down to zero. Performed a few test cuts and the new blade performed beautifully. Ah, the wonders of a fresh blade, I thought, excited to fill new orders. A couple of days later I came back to cut vinyl. Everything was peeling up. The cuts were dash cut. Letters were coming up. I adjusted the gf and pen force and did more test cuts until it appeared it all had improved. Next vinyl run, just as awful. Then I realized my cutting strip had a few gouges in it from a couple of times my vinyl had come off the tracks. I turned it around after placing an order for another one. Check my blade's edge, exposure, rotation, etc. etc. upped the pen force to +2 and after a few more test cuts, found ABSOLUTELY NO improvement. I am pulling my hair out now. I am getting uncut corners in the insides of Ns, Ms, Ws, etc. Letters are still peeling up to the point I wonder if my vinyl is just a bad batch with no stick.... For help, my cutter's specs are: 20cm/s 70gr 0.25mm Thank you for your help,
  16. I had some clear plastic cups laying around so I decided to mock up a superbowl cup. Nothing fancy, just the two teams' logo and a super bowl logo. The graphtec can cut some fine details, my camera not so much...
  17. asignofsucces

    Gold vinyl

    Hello all, I searched the forums and couldn't find this discussion. I have gotten some new gold 2 sided mirrored vinyl (Avery A1850-S-K or SF100-247-S-K), . My machine is a TC US Cutter. My machine tends to rip the vinyl at tight transitions. I've changed the speed, depth and even the blade and it seems to not help. Can anyone tell me the ideal settings for my TC plotter for this thin sensitive material? Thanks, Wade
  18. booSTIn503

    Vinyl assembly question

    So I'm fairly new to layering vinyl to create more complicated stickers. I've done 3 layer designs and its been great with transfer tape. I want to do badge overlays for vehicles (oval badge overlay) and when other stores sell these they do not come with paper/plastic transfer tape. These are layered vinyl (not printed) and are easy to apply because they don't have the transfer tape. How do they layer the vinyl? Do they use a low tack transfer tape to assemble the sticker and then discard the tape? Thanks for your help!
  19. pshawny

    Chinese Wrap Vinyl

    Anyone have experience with the cheap, made in China wrapping vinyl? Is it comparable to any of the low end vinyl here in the USA? I'm looking to offer small rolls and sheets of printed vinyl to my local crafters and cricuteers. It doesn't have to be professional level vinyl, just something decent. Does it work well for cut vinyl designs on flat surfaces also?
  20. So this thread is as simple as the title! Check out the review and get to see and hear the Titan 3 running.
  21. Hi I'm new from Western NY. I have a small business where I need to add something more to the shop. I was thinking of making personalized mugs where someone can bring in a picture and add that image to a mug. I was also thinking of doing plaques,and plates. I also have seen wine glasses with some sort of decal added such as for weddings: names and dates. I just don't know what I would need equipment wise to do these. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! I don't have a big budget to work with so if it's several different set ups, which should I go with first to get started? Which would be cheapest to start off with and on a beginner level?
  22. Moody Blue

    Satin Black Vinyl

    Im looking for a good satin black vinyl. Needs to be equivilant to 751 or 951 being that I am using it for truck graphics. I can go with the Avery SW900 wrap vinyl but I am afraid the thickness of the wrap vinyl will be noticeably different than the 751 Cardinal Red I have for the F-150 part.
  23. abullock22

    textured vinyl

    I have someone who is looking for textured vinyl to be used on thier car for a decal - and I have never dealt with this kind of vinyl. Anyone have any reccomendations? thanks
  24. Diva D

    Wall Decal HELP

    Hi all! I'm new to this forum, but stumbled here because I am in desperate need of some advice and also at a complete loss for words!! (Definitely not my norm.) I had a customer write me last night and started the conversation with "Before I review this decal, I just wanted you to know....." I sell on Etsy and for Etsy sellers reviews are everything to them!!! She had said that she couldn't get her decal to stick to the wall. I use Oracal 631. So I asked a series of questions trying to figure out the problem. She did say that her walls are "slightly textured" but then went on to attach these images. This is where the loss for words came into play! In my shop policies it clearly states that this vinyl will stick to any smooth/slightly textured walls and it is not recommended for highly textured walls or in this case I would say Extremely textured walls! Any advice you could give me would really be appreciated!!
  25. Hello I an new to the forum and to vinyl cutting. I am looking to cut some stickers for a buddy and I need a good outdoor vinyl with no branding on the back paper. After the stickers are cut he stamps company information and instructions on the back. I have called a couple of time to US Cutters and have been told the 651 does and does not have oracle branding on the back not sure what to believe before I order 5 plus 50 yard rolls of it. I have been told the GreenStar does not have branding but I am not sure if that brand is worth messing with. The stickers will primarily be used on the back of cars and windows. Please help a newbie out. Thanks Matt