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Found 331 results

  1. Wildgoose

    Glass etching

    Nice write-up Icomstock I have used the USCutter sandblast mask. It works pretty good on flat surfaces and comes up easy afterword. It's fairly thick so you might have trouble cutting with some of the value cutters. I don't like to strain my expensive Summa so I just make a couple passes at a lower setting. Takes a little playing around to figure out what pressure to run for a double cut. You will need a 60deg blade to get through the thickness. It's a little tough to get small designs so for glass I just use the Green Star (GS) vinyl now. The adhesive is easier to get off than most of the Oracal vinyls and it cuts easier while still being heavy enough to handle glass work. (I don't do a whole lot of blasting but do occasional 1-off work)
  2. If my memory is right it's the u shaped black plastic thing on the right in your picture. Above the pinch roller is a metal tab that passes through that when the head goes side to side and triggers the sensor.
  3. Make 3 or even 4 passes..... it will eventually cut. I would suggest using 5 mil. It's easier to work with and it actually makes a better stencil as it is easier to form on uneven surfaces.
  4. Have you tried making a couple passes?
  5. I physically went in person to Graphtec UK today since they're close to me. We tested the machine and it's working normally according to them. They had another unit set up and trialled the same fonts at the same sizes and it produced EXACTLY the same results as my unit... the only way I can get around having the tiny hang nails is doing 2 passes.. so that's what I'll do I think!
  6. I just got my 6000-40 yesterday and I've found that making 2 passes with lighter force completely eliminates any of this - hope this helps! edit* probably worth mentioning that I'm using 8 for force!
  7. Hi All, I have a new CE6000-40 and I'm new to cutting. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, but the bladeholder seems to slam down pretty hard on the vinyl when it starts a new cut. I've attached a video showing the behavior. Is this how it's supposed to work or is that a little aggressive? I've pasted all of my software settings below. These settings are controlled in Cutting Master 3 and synced back to the cutter over USB. On the cutter itself, I have the setting for "Initial Down Force" set to 1 (the lowest setting). I don't see an equivalent setting on the computer software side. Details: Here's are the details of my equipment and settings: Graphtec CE6000-40 Cutter Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Condition: Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Offset: 0 Speed: 1 cm/s Acceleration: 0 Cut Force: 10 Passes: 1 Tangential Mode: Off Tool Setting: Step Pass: 0 Offset Force: 2 Offset Angle: 0 Initial Blade Position: 2mm Below When Tool is Up: Speed: Auto Advanced: Move Step: 0.1mm Step Size: 0.010mm

    mh cutter capabilities

    It may work now, but for how long? Keep in mind the MH does not have the gram force (350) as a cutter, that is recommended for the job, so you are putting more strain on the MH cutter, than say a Graphtec FC8600, which would have no problem at (600) All vinyl cutters will have their limitations, and each one is slightly different. UScutter is not going to advertise it will, when it may not work for the next person...Because it is not guaranteed to work with reflective. You may also have to do a couple passes,when cutting reflective. Those vinyls are quite expensive to mess up on a value cutter. Limited memory and static problems...
  9. I am thinking it's time to retire the trusty SignBlazer Software and move on to more current software that offers stand-alone design & cut ability. SignBlaser is a great program but unfortunately no one has taken up the challenge of updating it... so as each year passes it is becoming obsolete. I don't want to "rent" a "Cloud" version of ANY program. I want the disk and want to be able to upgrade my computer without worrying about program transfer problems. So, what would be your advice? I already have & use for every day graphics: SignBlazer CorelDraw 7 Adobe Creative Suite 6 which includes Illustrator Good and BAD points of the software are welcome. Of course, price will be a consideration also... but not the uppermost priority. Thanks in advance for any input. Sue2
  10. Go-C Graphics

    Go-C Graphics

    No problem. I'll be happy to ship you everything 100% free. All you have to do is pay for shipping and handling which happens to come to about $5000. My cutting bed is 11.8"x19.5". The normal max thickness is about 1/4". I could cut thicker with a few extra passes but it's not really recommended. I'm limited by my 40W tube. At some point in the future i'll upgrade the tube and power supply to a 60W or 80W system.
  11. Wildgoose

    Family decals

    Or if that bill passes that Skarkrow linked you could mirror them and call them a derivative art form. LOL
  12. Wildgoose

    Weeding machine

    I think this falls into that category of something developed by the laziest people on the planet. dcbevins, I'm out of likes for the day or I'd have liked your comment about the 12 yr olds. My brother-in-law went to China to build a project and was telling me that he watched a road crew spend a week with a whole host of laborers leveling out gravel by hand and wheel barrels. They had a road grader setting at the end of the street the whole time and only started it up at the very end to make a few final passes over it. Evidently the labor is far cheaper than the fuel and wear on the machine. This video is the direct opposite of that. Ha ha!
  13. Wildgoose

    New to heat presses. Please help.

    16x20 is nice but it will be much bigger than you need for 75% of things. I got by with a 15" for several years just fine. I don't know if you have ever put a 14 or 15" graphic on a shirt but it's much larger than you would think. Most of the shirts I make are more in the 11 to 12" wide areas and some only 9 or 10" wide. With HTV you can press in two passes if it's bigger than your press too. I guess what I'm saying is if your trying to stay on a budget anyway then 15" is very serviceable. I would start there and then when you get ready to upgrade to a higher end press step up the size as well. I have a fashion and change platens often stepping down to my 11x15" for smaller shirts and even the front of hoodies. If you can find on you like get a swing out. They are more versatile. You may want to get a pressing pillow too as it will help you deal with collars and seams. This will be critical if you go to the 16x20". Anytime you have a neck collar or thick sewn seam up on the platen it can hold the upper platen off the rest of the shirt enough to cause problems.
  14. fustratedinhawaii

    12 oz can coolies...Need help

    Are you talking about the flat ones to press on? That sucks, because over here, you can buy them for $1 or they give it away (lot of them do for fundraisers and stuff). My kayaking club, it's pretty cool and someone makes it for free (he HAS a full-time job doing something else), so he passes them out for free. Tough to compete with that !!!
  15. dkipp

    svg import question

    Might be a simple question, but. I'm using sure cuts 3 and whenever I import an svg from Illustrator it will almost always cut the image twice (on top of another). I can use trace image in sure cuts a lot and it's fine, but any time I import an svg it's doing it twice, it's driving me nuts. I've been using the pen tool to try and trouble shoot. I like importing an svg because I like to tweek the image in Illustrator. I've attached two pictures and they might me hard to tell, but you can notice the svg import (bottom) is much darker since it did two passes.
  16. BearlyRich

    glow in the dark

    I don't know if anyone else has cut the glow vinyl, but I did a couple years ago. Very difficult. The stuff was many time thicker and tougher than any other vinyl I have cut, had trouble tracking in the cutter and really neede two passes. Luckily I was only doing a circle of it. Also don't know if they're making it thinner now, but thought I would mention my troubles with it...

    Sticky Flock on SC cutter

    And from what I have read, it takes a few passes...
  18. SeeJaysPlace


    Well Try doing a 2 or 3 pass means they will cut the circle like 2 or 3 times.. Or your blade is not out enough to cut the rhinestone metirial I do 2 passes There is a lot to learn about Rhinestones to get them to work well! First off do not use a Hand Iron! That is the Heat Press i Started with when i started doing HTV and all that crazy stuff! This is a wonderful lady! I get all my stones and stuff from her And last but not least the software to make your design i just use a plugin with Corel! I would watch a lot more youtube video's to learn what NOT to do! lol Good Luck
  19. Dakotagrafx


    wonder if he still passes on the right that fast
  20. pshawny

    cutting magnet sheets

    Yes, I have cut magnet material with my Graphtec. You'll want to use a dedicated blade and experiment with the cutting pressure, blade exposure, and speed. It should cut about 90% of the way through the material, then you press it out with your fingers the rest of the way. If needed, you could double up the shape in the cutting software so it makes two passes. There are different thicknesses of magnetic material, 15-20 mil for indoor use, and 30 mil for use on vehicles.
  21. pshawny

    Return to beginning?

    There should be no need to double cut HTV. You could just make two copies of the design and center them vertically and horizontally. The cutter would then make two passes.
  22. Wildgoose

    Recommend 48" Cutter/Plotter

    I have the Summa and love it and wouldn't trade it. The only thing I will say is any of the three you are looking at are probably going to give you fine details very similar, for small stuff the differences in the machines is fairly minimal. No matter which one you choose getting the machine set-up spot on is the key to fine details and to tell the truth it's harder to weed successfully that to cut. I learned good machine set-up by having a budget cutter for a couple years and there is an art to it that takes time and patience to learn and perfect. Most of the time you will play hobb trying to get it to transfer and stay stuck on the intended substrate at the end of the day because there really isn't enough adhesive there to catch hold. Vinyl is really not intended to be used that small but we do it now and then. I do 1/8 letters occasionally and have even done smaller but you have to weed the insides with an xacto blade and stab them out or weed them after application. My eyes are getting tired and I hate doing that kind of thing if I can avoid it. I would go Summa or Graphtec. And if I was going Graphtec I would go FC just for the added pressure. The Summa isn't designed for heavy cutting like sanblast resist or diamond grade reflective like you would see on street signs. I can cut them but I have to do it in two passes. Works fine for the few times I need to do it because the machine is so accurate that you can't tell it went over it twice but it's less ideal. These are my personal opinions and cost is not factored in. If you really want to go trick go with a Summa T series Tangential cutter. That's the shizz.
  23. djque

    Sticky flock and SC cutter

    its actually easy to weed and fast all in one piece I make glitter rhinestones a lot. to the OP when cutting sticky flock I would have a xtra blade and blade holder just for it and flock and glitter and do 2 passes also make sure that your blade is a 60* blade and not 45*. when you cut sticky flock right it will leave the cut circles on the paper. I use to use a MH721 to cut it and was at like 180 to 200 pressure. also you might have to cut your circle 1 size up. do small test cuts.
  24. I am looking for a cutter, mainly for my father to make airbrush stencils with. But what I would like to do also is cut leather. I have been searching non stop for the past two days for an inexpensive (around $500) cutter to do the job. Problem is, I can't find info on cutting anything thicker than vinyl and such. The machines I have narrowed down to are the Cricut Explore (it is proven to cut leather up to 4mm with a few passes), the KNK Zing, Vinyl Express R19, US Cutter Laser point II, or Titan. I really do not want a Cricut because it forces you to use their web based software. I can set up a computer in the room the cutter will be in but I don't feel like running cable through my attic for an internet conncetion and the wifi signal is iffy at best on that side of the house. I also don't like being tied down to one piece of software. But the Cricut can do what I want it to do. I was considering a Cameo but apparantly, feeding it anything over 1mm is extremely tough to do. Can thick material be fed into any of these cutters? Thanks!
  25. pearlheartgtr

    Need a Cutter That Can Cut Leather

    Yeah, I've seen the thread (I'm also a member there). I've seen a lot of threads, lol. I searched high and low for over 20 hours between two days before I started asking questions. I've been leathercrafting for several years and with some of the items I make, it takes me longer to cut them out with an Xacto blade than to actually form and assemble. I figured I could get the pieces cut out a lot quicker with a cutter. I know a bit of downforce is needed for leather, but if the Cricut Explore can do it, I really don't see why the more higher end ones can't. This is why I am asking about other machines. I know they are capable of the downforce, it is just what is the max thickness of material that they can accept being fed into them is what I need to know. In the PDF by Provocraft, the downforce they are using is somewhere around 300g with a few passes. I would like to NOT buy a Cricut, as I mentioned, because of the machines being locked to their online software. I like freedom to use what software I choose.