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Found 388 results

  1. darcshadow

    Cutting Plastic

    I would say no as well, not sure the blade would even be big enough and if it is, it would not be able to do the pressure required to cut something that thick. It might be possible if you do 2 or 3 passes, but I would not count on the accuracy of the MH to be consistent enough to exactly trace the same path.
  2. haumana

    Hi Everyone!

    I strictly use 60*, however, I also cut 651 95% of the time. If I'm finding something tough to cut, I would rather do 2-passes using a 60*, than blade swapping. I do not want the hassle of having to adjusting blade depths unless I really, really, really have to ... like when I need to take the holder apart to clean it up and de-gunk whatever bits of vinyl might have gotten stuck in there.
  3. I have an issue with the cutter lifting more than I think it needs to. Using AI with Cutting Master 3 . Here is a short video example of what I am talking about (cutting 2 passes here but the excess blade lifting is obvious) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B72LKAZyPz2hNXp5ZS01Y1dnS0k/view?usp=sharing Here is the same section shown in the video . The extra lifts increase the cutting time and wear on the machine. Cutter is a Graphtec Ce-6000-60 cutting magnetic sheet 2 passes. Thanks for any help.
  4. sco_dux

    Double Cutting

    What do you mean when you say "2 passes"? In the cutting software itself? Or in Illustrator where I made my document? (Also, in other cutting software, what menu is "passes" located under? And it is only one layer of vector so its super frustrating that I can't figure out what is going wrong...
  5. ShaneGreen

    Noob Questions

    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  6. That stuff is 7 mil and really tough on blades. I don't know how you could ever forecast a blade problem. I would make sure your prices are high enough to cover an occasional issue because it's going to happen again. I bought a little lighted high magnification hand held microscope someone on the forum had suggested. Similar to this:https://www.ebay.com/p/Pocket-Microscope-Carson-MicroBrite-Plus-60x120x-Power-LED-Lighted/2254813830?iid=113506320660&chn=ps It takes some figuring out but you can actually see your blade tip and what shape it's in. That's how I figured out I actually sanded my tip off trying to cut glitter HTV in two passes.
  7. Hello Everyone, I purchased my SC2 back in September knowing full well from these forums that it was in fact a value cutter. My needs aren't that of a sign shop or even a decal shop so I thought maybe given the relative low use I planned to use this for wouldn't be a problem and the issues I've encountered to date haven't specifically been with the machine itself with the exception of setting the blade, which I have since found the instructions posted countless times here. What I'm having issues with now is the width of my stencils are ~30" and as it gets to the 26" > 30" mark(right to left) the cut begins to get less and less eventually not happening at all. Now with the help of reading through all these posts I've seen similar issues listed here Carrier off track from shipping or incorrect blade setting etc. As stated above I did initially set blade incorrectly and have since changed, set, reset multiple times following the directions of Mz Skeeter(I hope I spelled that correctly from memory) also I've checked to see if the carrier was on track and w/out completely disassembling the unit near as I can tell both wheels/rollers are in the correct channel. I'm really just looking for any assistance you guys can provide. I haven't contacted support as of yet, as I was hoping to draw on the vast knowledge of this group before going that far. Details: Windows 10 machine SC2 34" Cutting 5mil Duralar VinylMaster Cut 4.0 - I've also had it making 2 passes/cuts Individual sheets being fed Hopefully I have provided enough information Chris Also in the Setting up cutter guide it provided this link to a video on checking that carrier was on track which is unavailable. https://youtu.be/4EHPvnLYoI4
  8. Dakotagrafx

    magnetic material (newbie question)

    people have done it - sometimes with multiple passes - personally I would never put something that thick thru my main plotter. we did have a guy a few years back that kept an old MH just for stuff like this so he didn't abuse his graphtec
  9. MZ SKEETER

    SC2 34" left side not cutting

    then try raising the force a little and see what results you get. 2 passes would be the best way.
  10. haumana

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    The Fed's website says that it's $25/car. Even the Annual passes are cheaper than $180 I can't believe they have to take reservations too. It must've gotten a lot busier than it used to be.
  11. I have cut several types of media for stencils on my MH,since it's a "lesser" machine than your laser point this short guide should work just fine. Write down your current settings for vinyl, keep this in a safe place. Buy a second blade holder Insert a 60 degree blade in this holder ( you will want less blade dragging through the material) Extend the blade twice the length of vinyl ( or just a bit past the thickness of the stencil material ) Crank the pressure up..... then crank it again; On my MH I cut vinyl at 10 downforce plastics 250 downforce. Make two passes for 7 mil ( hogging through on the first pass is asking for trouble.) ( 7 mil was two passes - 5 mil one pass) Use a carrier sheet - one with a sticky back type works best BAM you have your stencils. Oh almost forgot - It's a good idea to mark your blade holders it kind of sucks when you grab the wrong one.
  12. Thanks for the reply - it does cut very well otherwise, it's just the rings and 0s gs etc that it sometimes has problems with. It's not hugely noticeable but it is there, however when I make 2 passes it's perfect aside from a slight overall degradation of quality. It seems to me like it's not completely reaching the start point of the cut on the rings, hence it's fine with 2 passes. Anyone with a Graphtec CE-6000 have any ideas? Does your cutter do this? I actually have a 60 degree blade on the way so will give it a go when it arrives. Do you know what the offset should be for 60 degrees? Cheers!
  13. Greetings! I am new to the forum, and new to vinyl cutting. I browsed the forums quite a bit before and after ordering my SC2 and have looked around a little since cutting my first few experiments. I really like how this forum appears to be a real community helping each other out.. I hope to learn and share as much as I can in the future. I am a graphic designs for a semi large screen print and embroidery house in Texas and I am a self proclaimed "vector snob". I have a VERY good understanding of the ins and outs of Adobe illustrator so please let me know if you have any questions. The examples I have attached were created in Adobe Illustrator and the vector files opened in the "Vinyl Master Cut V4" and cut with no further editing in that software. I work on a windows PC and I have my plotter set up with a serial cable.I read the suggestions on here for setting up the blade depth and did my best to set my machine up that way. All of the white graphics were on Oracal 651 material and cut with my machine set to 100 speed, the black graphics were on 651and i think they cut at 500, and the yellow was on 751C also at 500. The yellow graphic actually looks pretty decent but its on the bigger side and there are still some little things i would like to clean up.. and it ran way faster than the white vinyl. OK now that I feel like I got the particulars out of the way... I am wondering if my passion for clean vector graphics is ruining my expectations of what my plotter is actually cutting. I would have thought that straight lines and rectangles would be bread and butter but that seems to be my major beef. I added the image of the skull because that one cut pretty much perfectly. My biggest gripe is with the quality of the text. The tops and bottoms and vertical lines across the lettering dont stay straight and seem inconsistent across the letters. I have "hangnails" and I have read about bumping the blade offset "a little" will help with that.. my machine is at .35 passes are 1.. what should I bump it to? People are cutting text way smaller than this and I dont know if my expectations are screwy or if there is maybe something I am missing. I would love to hear any input you have on either clearing up my expectations OR how i may be able to clean up my cuts.. Thank you and I hope to hear back from someone!
  14. MZ SKEETER

    PRS number for LaserPoint2

    There is no set pressure/force for any vinyl cutter or vinyl. You must follow the blade depth set up instructions to set the force for any vinyl cutter and vinyl. You may even need to make 2-3 different passes on hard to cut vinyl. You have to experiment with your force using the TEST feature. Then write it down and keep it for the future. Then it will be your starting point, next time. How to set blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing., You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  15. arty-rc

    Edge Lit Glass

    I'm making my own bases from 2x4"s. Five passes by my table saw blade and three passes by my router blade. After final sanding and varnish staining I wire up the led's(bought from the big auction site) to a power supply and apply felt to the bottom of the base. I usually make 10 bases at a time.
  16. arty-rc

    Finally got around to it

    I've been wanting to give this a try for a while. I found some 5x5 beveled glass and went at it. I cut the vinyl and did a two stage sandblast. Grabbed a scrap 2x4 and a couple of passes on the table saw and a few passes on the router table, then some round-off sanding made the base. I added two coats of mahogany varnish stain, wired up 6 blue led's to a 12v power supply and it was done.
  17. Some hard material to cut needs a couple passes instead of 1 pass. Have you tried that? Plus a sharp blade.
  18. It could possibly be the reading of these special colored ones that is causing the extra passes somehow. Just a thought.
  19. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Has anyone ever tried adding some sound deadening material to the insides of one of these cutters? I've got an LPII and the stepper motors are loud, but usually it's cutting so fast that it's mostly a high pitched annoyance for a few minutes. Sounded like a dial-up modem on crack. But now I've started cutting a lot more Scotchlite reflective. . .at 100mm/sec and two passes. What took ten minutes now takes an hour and the slow speed and thicker material gives it a nice dawn-of-the-dead type moan. I need to cut for about 3 hours this afternoon and there is no way I can handle it with this sinus headache. So I'm thinking of lining the top cover and the inside of both side covers with some sort of adhesive foam. Has anyone tried it? Does anyone think it will help? I can't afford to upgrade for a while so I've got to do something with what I've got.
  20. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Added some foam tape under the hood that covers the track and that helped a bit, but not much room in there to add anything. Dakota, I may follow your dot matrix idea and build a partial box around it with some egg crate. Darcshadow, that's what I've done when I could, start it and leave the room but it's not always possible. And today it would have been a mess! VinylMaster decided to cut each registration mark 4 times...@2 passes each for the reflective, so a total of 8 cuts for each registration mark. Needless to say the vinyl didn't stay in place and the blade holder started dragging it around.
  21. I have a roll of the Grecnstar sandblast resist which is pretty thick and have more consistent cuts when I make two passes rather than push all the way through in one shot. It's more of a pain to do the text cuts that way but I just make a small box similar to what my cutter normally does for a test and cut it in two passes until I get there. I wrote the number down inside the roll tube so I don;'t have to remember it next time. (I'm not running the Graphtec but Summa is similar)
  22. haumana

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    I agree with Scoot - the blade doesn't look like it's rotating freely, or easily as it should. you should also check that there isn't gunk or random teeny pieces of vinyl in the blade holder itself - when I cut tiny stuff, my blade holder would notoriously get bits of vinyl in the blade holder. sharp edges, intricate cuts, i usually go with a 60-degree and slow the speed down a bit. if it's thick, then i much prefer multiple passes versus increasing force/pressure. be patient, it happens to the best of us every once in a while, with experience and practice you'll get to know the quirks of all this stuff.
  23. MZ SKEETER

    FC8000-60 Corner Issues

    I don't know how you set your blade depth, but this is the correct way below and it works. Also blade offset on a Graphtec is 0 ZERO I never cut with a speed that high. That's just me. Instead of cutting in 1 pass, try cutting 2 passes. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  24. darcshadow

    cutting mylar

    Ok, so I had to go look up mylar stencils. When I, and probably most people, think Mylar, I think mylar balloons or mylar blankets, thin shinny material. Cutting that on a cutter would be virtually impossible I think. However, from what I can tell, they type of mylar you are talking about is more of a thin plastic or a thick film rather than the shinny stuff I'm thinking of. At 4 mil you shouldn't have too much trouble. standard vinyl is around 2.5 mil so increasing the pressure, adjusting the blade depth, and possibly making 2 passes should get you a decent cut. The next question though, does the material have a sticky back and come on a carrier sheet. If it does you should be good. If it does not, you'll need some sort of carrier sheet to attach the mylar to in order to feed it into your cutter. If you try to cut without a backing material or carrier sheet you'll ruin your cutting strip, not get a good cut, and waste your material.
  25. MZ SKEETER

    Return to beginning?

    That is something in the software..as in run 2 passes... then it will do both passes. 1 after the other.. I don't use Signblazer, but take a look..in your cutting features.