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Found 358 results

  1. I have an issue with the cutter lifting more than I think it needs to. Using AI with Cutting Master 3 . Here is a short video example of what I am talking about (cutting 2 passes here but the excess blade lifting is obvious) Here is the same section shown in the video . The extra lifts increase the cutting time and wear on the machine. Cutter is a Graphtec Ce-6000-60 cutting magnetic sheet 2 passes. Thanks for any help.
  2. sco_dux

    Double Cutting

    What do you mean when you say "2 passes"? In the cutting software itself? Or in Illustrator where I made my document? (Also, in other cutting software, what menu is "passes" located under? And it is only one layer of vector so its super frustrating that I can't figure out what is going wrong...
  3. Wildgoose

    What can an MH871 cut?

    Well, hate to say it but they don't call them a paper and acetate cutter. That being said you can usually cut some other materials if you get set right. I have never tried to cut acetate and have no idea how hard that is. Does it have a carrier sheet? Because anything you cut will need to have a carrier sheet behind it. The paper and yardstick usually just needs to be stuck onto a piece of clear app tape or buy a circuit cutting mat or something and usually you can cut it. Some materials are much hardier than vinyl and so the pressure needed will be a lot higher. Sometimes you might need to make two passes to get through and at that point you will suffer with the inaccuracy of the MH because it may not be able to follow the same path both times. Keep in mind that the cutter blades are extremely sharp but also very fragile and it doesn't take much to ruin a tip and then they won't cut anything well. I personally avoid those type of things mist of the time and when I do cut them I have a few older used blades that still were working when I changed them that I save to use in that environment.


    Maybe try 2 passes instead of just 1 pass.
  5. I have cut several types of media for stencils on my MH,since it's a "lesser" machine than your laser point this short guide should work just fine. Write down your current settings for vinyl, keep this in a safe place. Buy a second blade holder Insert a 60 degree blade in this holder ( you will want less blade dragging through the material) Extend the blade twice the length of vinyl ( or just a bit past the thickness of the stencil material ) Crank the pressure up..... then crank it again; On my MH I cut vinyl at 10 downforce plastics 250 downforce. Make two passes for 7 mil ( hogging through on the first pass is asking for trouble.) ( 7 mil was two passes - 5 mil one pass) Use a carrier sheet - one with a sticky back type works best BAM you have your stencils. Oh almost forgot - It's a good idea to mark your blade holders it kind of sucks when you grab the wrong one.
  6. Thanks for the reply - it does cut very well otherwise, it's just the rings and 0s gs etc that it sometimes has problems with. It's not hugely noticeable but it is there, however when I make 2 passes it's perfect aside from a slight overall degradation of quality. It seems to me like it's not completely reaching the start point of the cut on the rings, hence it's fine with 2 passes. Anyone with a Graphtec CE-6000 have any ideas? Does your cutter do this? I actually have a 60 degree blade on the way so will give it a go when it arrives. Do you know what the offset should be for 60 degrees? Cheers!
  7. Our little niche is strictly reflective decals. I've been playing around the past 2 days on settings with just the 45° blade. I can cut 5 mil 5500 in one pass at 450g downforce at a speed of 200. The laminated and printed stuff is quite the challenge but at 375g and two passes at a speed of 300 rocks the cut pretty good. I'll get this batch cut and then switch over to the 60 as some of the intricate details are not quite as clean as I'd like...really good but just not quite where I want them!
  8. arty-rc

    Edge Lit Glass

    I'm making my own bases from 2x4"s. Five passes by my table saw blade and three passes by my router blade. After final sanding and varnish staining I wire up the led's(bought from the big auction site) to a power supply and apply felt to the bottom of the base. I usually make 10 bases at a time.
  9. arty-rc

    Finally got around to it

    I've been wanting to give this a try for a while. I found some 5x5 beveled glass and went at it. I cut the vinyl and did a two stage sandblast. Grabbed a scrap 2x4 and a couple of passes on the table saw and a few passes on the router table, then some round-off sanding made the base. I added two coats of mahogany varnish stain, wired up 6 blue led's to a 12v power supply and it was done.
  10. I have a roll of the Grecnstar sandblast resist which is pretty thick and have more consistent cuts when I make two passes rather than push all the way through in one shot. It's more of a pain to do the text cuts that way but I just make a small box similar to what my cutter normally does for a test and cut it in two passes until I get there. I wrote the number down inside the roll tube so I don;'t have to remember it next time. (I'm not running the Graphtec but Summa is similar)
  11. Ironbar

    Cut Studio

    kayhold, The picture you show is CutStudio. I just bought a new Roland it only came with CutStudio. No SignCut for me. They just upgraded it to 3.0 which is a little better but not much. I can deal with most of its quirks except I have to separate out the colors before I send to CutStudio because it won't import them. Lame. What really does not make sense to me is: In CutStudio you can manually change the colors and then cut what you want. I don't get it. I don't know why Roland does not give VeraWorks with all of their products. With CutStudio you can't even do perforated cuts without doing two passes but you can with VeraWorks.
  12. I always cut two passes when cutting Flock,just to make sure no lil fiber hang tag is present,
  13. I don't have a LP11, but doesn't your cutter have a TEST option on it? Most all cutters do. As far as the flock.. have you tried to cut 2 or 3 passes , instead of 1 very deep one? ... I have read several times, that people do that with flock and other thick materials.

    Return to beginning?

    That is something in the in run 2 passes... then it will do both passes. 1 after the other.. I don't use Signblazer, but take a your cutting features.
  15. JessXEmoji

    Cutter Tracking Help

    I've been practicing cutting large vinyl designs thats 20" W and 120" Long. However my SC Cutter will not keep the vinyl straight. After a few passes from front to rear the vinyl moves over about and inch. I've tried adjusting the rollers etc...And it'll stay straight for one pass but SCAL likes to cut from front to rear and those extra passes aren't helping me out. Is there any tricks I can do for such large designs on the cutter? And is there a cutting software that cuts just from front to rear and not back and forth? thanks.
  16. Hello, Sorry for the long post. Just trying to give as much info as possible up front to minimize any followup questions. Summary: I'm new to the forum and this is my first experience with a vinyl cutter. I'm having issues cutting small circles consistently and would love some help and suggestions for tuning the equipment and settings to get the best possible cuts. Background: I purchased a new Graphtec CE6000-40 and I'm cutting using Adobe Illustrator and Cutting Master 3 software/plugin. I'm cutting Oracal 951 vinyl. Attempting to cut small circles, 5mm in diameter. The circles are set up in groups of 3, spaced about .5" apart. The issue I'm having is that the third circle in each set is showing what I would call a blade mark, or what others have described as a "hangnail" or in complete circle. For whatever reason, this is ONLY happening on the third circle in the set. The first one is fine, the second is slightly worse, and the third is unusable. What's also interesting is that the problem gets progressively worse on the right side of the sheet vs. the left. In other words, the third circle in each set is the worst, but the third circles on the right of the sheet are worse than the third circles on the left of the sheet. I watched the movement of the blade and the third circle is the last circle it cuts in the sequence before it moves to the next tile. It's almost as if the machine is "rushing at the end" to move to the next tile and that's why it's imperfect. (Although I know that's probably not really what's happening.) It may seem minor or that I'm being too picky, but the fact that the first circle is perfect leads me to believe that they can ALL be perfect. I'm viewing the circles under a loupe, and also under a 10X macro lens. That said, the issue is still visible to the naked eye upon close inspection. I've read a lot of info on the forums here and I think I have my blade height set correctly. I've also experimented with various speeds and levels of force. I checked the file - it's nice and clean. It's just a simple circle drawn in Adobe Illustrator. There are only 4 nodes on the circle. I've attached some macro shots to show the issue, along with the EPS file that I'm cutting from. Details: Here's are the details of my equipment and settings: Graphtec CE6000-40 Cutter Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Condition: Blade: Graphtec CB09U-K60 (60º, 0.9mm) Offset: 0 Speed: 1 cm/s Acceleration: 0 Cut Force: 10 Passes: 1 Tangential Mode: Off Tool Setting: Step Pass: 0 Offset Force: 2 Offset Angle: 0 Initial Blade Position: 2mm Below When Tool is Up: Speed: Auto Advanced: Move Step: 0.1mm Step Size: 0.010mm -------- Any help or advice you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. small-circles.eps
  17. I'm sure flexi will have multiple pass options somewhere. I use SignCut Pro and just set it at two passes. It took a few test cuts on scrap to figure out the sweet spot on pressure. The other little thing I would caution you on is the claimed down force is 750 but Chinese workmanship is notorious for being less accurate so I would wonder of that is actually up to par as compared to an FC machine. Even the True tangential Summa cutters only put out 600g force and they will chomp through some thick stuff. I am not knocking the Chinese but I tend to doubt the claim.
  18. Two passes at a lighter setting is what I do when I find a situation like that.
  19. SeeJaysPlace

    Sandblasting wood - Which mask?

    I have 2 .09 blade holders one has a crappy 45blade in it and the other one has a clean cut blade in it! One i only use for HTV, 631 and 651 - stock blade that came with the machine The other one i use is for Htv Glitter, Sandblast stencil, and Cricut Crafting Crap for my mother! - my clean cut blade! I should of done 2 passes but i didn't i only did 1 at the time but i used the 31 of force and speed of like 8 or 10 not very fast! It would of came out better if i would of done 2 passes for sure so i did the 1 pass and pealed it off and put it on the granite, and then i weeded out the letters once it was on the granite! I will show more images later tonight when i go and get it sandblasted! I'm kinda exited actually 4pm can't come soon enough
  20. dcbevins

    Big Squeegee Tools

    Thanks for the input. Are you using something like this pshawny? I generally have smaller roles of transfer tape than the size I am using so I end up making two passes. Will a BS be useful when my tape isn't as wide as the graphic and I have to do multiple passes or should I just start getting bigger tape? I am tending toward the Big Squeegee Cut Vinyl/Tape Applicator Tool, 32", but the 18" Rivet/Dent tool looks like it would be easier to wield for smaller things. Would both be redundant?
  21. mfatty500


    I don't use that brand of plotter, but a good sharp 60* degree blade would be where I would start with, you'll have to experiment until you find that sweet spot. What brand of glitter vinyl are you using? Sometimes you may have to make 2 passes, let the machine do the work, not the blade, (as in to much exposed) I have cut thousands of yards of the stuff with very little troubles, other than dull or bad blades.
  22. Hello, I am having extreme problems registering a contour cut on Printable Glitter Heat Transfer Material on out Titan3 ARMS Plotter. It seems that the plotter will not recognize the printed registration marks possibly because of the reflective qualities of the material. It passes the registration marks up and starts looking along the edge of the material or refuses look go find them at all. Has anyone had this problem? I have found a work around but it involves a lengthy process of adhering white calendar vinyl onto the glitter material and then printing, then cutting. Too much time. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance. Charlie
  23. signyouup

    New from Southern California with questions too

    For cutting the Mylar on your machine you could try using multiple passes on the cuts.
  24. storm2313

    Any suggestions when cutting polypropylene?

    The substrate has a clear backing layer. I've cut it in one pass with ease, but I do notice a very slight dimpling in the material where the cut line is. I didn't know if this was normal, and decided to ask for some advice. How do I set up the CE-6000 for two passes with lower pressure. I'm using VM PRO. Thank you for your assistance.
  25. Wildgoose

    Any suggestions when cutting polypropylene?

    You are just going to have to work into it with test cuts. If you end up way up in pressure you might find that 2 passes at a lower pressure will get better results than one high. When I cut stencil material I use clear backing from regular performance vinyl most of the time and I keep a small piece after the job and leave my cutting force and speed written on it with a sharpie so I don't have to go through that every time. 6 mil is pretty thin so I would think one pass will work. Does your product have a carrier sheet?