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Found 358 results


    PRS number for LaserPoint2

    There is no set pressure/force for any vinyl cutter or vinyl. You must follow the blade depth set up instructions to set the force for any vinyl cutter and vinyl. You may even need to make 2-3 different passes on hard to cut vinyl. You have to experiment with your force using the TEST feature. Then write it down and keep it for the future. Then it will be your starting point, next time. How to set blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing., You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  2. Some hard material to cut needs a couple passes instead of 1 pass. Have you tried that? Plus a sharp blade.
  3. It could possibly be the reading of these special colored ones that is causing the extra passes somehow. Just a thought.
  4. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Has anyone ever tried adding some sound deadening material to the insides of one of these cutters? I've got an LPII and the stepper motors are loud, but usually it's cutting so fast that it's mostly a high pitched annoyance for a few minutes. Sounded like a dial-up modem on crack. But now I've started cutting a lot more Scotchlite reflective. . .at 100mm/sec and two passes. What took ten minutes now takes an hour and the slow speed and thicker material gives it a nice dawn-of-the-dead type moan. I need to cut for about 3 hours this afternoon and there is no way I can handle it with this sinus headache. So I'm thinking of lining the top cover and the inside of both side covers with some sort of adhesive foam. Has anyone tried it? Does anyone think it will help? I can't afford to upgrade for a while so I've got to do something with what I've got.
  5. ShaneGreen

    Sound proofing a cutter. . .

    Added some foam tape under the hood that covers the track and that helped a bit, but not much room in there to add anything. Dakota, I may follow your dot matrix idea and build a partial box around it with some egg crate. Darcshadow, that's what I've done when I could, start it and leave the room but it's not always possible. And today it would have been a mess! VinylMaster decided to cut each registration mark 4 times...@2 passes each for the reflective, so a total of 8 cuts for each registration mark. Needless to say the vinyl didn't stay in place and the blade holder started dragging it around.
  6. haumana

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    I agree with Scoot - the blade doesn't look like it's rotating freely, or easily as it should. you should also check that there isn't gunk or random teeny pieces of vinyl in the blade holder itself - when I cut tiny stuff, my blade holder would notoriously get bits of vinyl in the blade holder. sharp edges, intricate cuts, i usually go with a 60-degree and slow the speed down a bit. if it's thick, then i much prefer multiple passes versus increasing force/pressure. be patient, it happens to the best of us every once in a while, with experience and practice you'll get to know the quirks of all this stuff.

    FC8000-60 Corner Issues

    I don't know how you set your blade depth, but this is the correct way below and it works. Also blade offset on a Graphtec is 0 ZERO I never cut with a speed that high. That's just me. Instead of cutting in 1 pass, try cutting 2 passes. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  8. darcshadow

    cutting mylar

    Ok, so I had to go look up mylar stencils. When I, and probably most people, think Mylar, I think mylar balloons or mylar blankets, thin shinny material. Cutting that on a cutter would be virtually impossible I think. However, from what I can tell, they type of mylar you are talking about is more of a thin plastic or a thick film rather than the shinny stuff I'm thinking of. At 4 mil you shouldn't have too much trouble. standard vinyl is around 2.5 mil so increasing the pressure, adjusting the blade depth, and possibly making 2 passes should get you a decent cut. The next question though, does the material have a sticky back and come on a carrier sheet. If it does you should be good. If it does not, you'll need some sort of carrier sheet to attach the mylar to in order to feed it into your cutter. If you try to cut without a backing material or carrier sheet you'll ruin your cutting strip, not get a good cut, and waste your material.
  9. busterbay

    SC 34" Inaccurate Cuts

    Also this could be an issue "set to 600" I cut through 6mil laminated decals with 34 however I make 3 passes. 1 pass at that pressure could be your problem, I was never a fan of hogging though the material if I could make a few passes. Think of it like this if you were working with metal would you remove 1/4" at at time or would you make a few passes ?

    Mylar .5mm cutter settings for CE6000-40

    There are not any settings for any vinyl or Mylar, First you have to set the blade depth correctly which has been posted hundreds of times on here by me. That will get your force correct. Also you could try 2 or 3 passes in the cutting software.

    Speed/Force consensus

    There is no typical settings. Each cutter is different, even the same model. You have to fine tune each cutter, Value cutters may have to be fine tuned each time you cut. The higher end cutters, pretty much set and forget, unless you are changing to different thickness of vinyl. You may to make several passes on some of those vinyls like glitter. I hear it's pretty hard to cut. The force is set by the blade depth. You must get the blade depth correct first, for each different vinyl you use. Then you set the force to make it cut correctly.
  12. I just got my SC2 last night, watched a few videos, thought I had everthing set up correctly, but now I'm not sure, so here come the questions... I decided to use the pen tool and I had heard that on blades, they just need to barely stick out so I adjusted the pen to stick out just a little too. 1. For the pen tool, is this too much or too little sticking out? The back end of the pen hits the little ridge by the control panel when it passes by it. 2. Is the pen too high here? I did a test cut and I'm getting these little "lead ins" which I would understand why I'm getting them if I was using a blade and not a pen. It's possible I had this set to "blade" not "pen tool" by mistake though. 3. So did I have a setting wrong here or is this normal? You can see the little start marks on the "C" and the "t" here: Then I decided to try importing from Corel. 4. Are these settings good: Importing from Corel was easy and the design cut, but there were some gaps between the start and end, and also some of the letters weren't drawn correctly. You can see the difference between the "w" on these two pics, and you can see the gaps in here as well: 5. What settings do I have wrong here?

    Titan 28" Not Cutting Properly

    Make 2 passes, even 3 if you need to. Put the force back.
  14. Hello, new to cutting and new to the forum! Bought myself a Graphtec 6000-40 and I've noticed that I'm getting some very small hang nails on some of the smaller letting, but only where there is a circular shape. I'm using the stock 45 degree blade and I've played around with the settings a bit, but the only way I can completely get rid of them is to make 2 passes of whatever I'm cutting. It's almost as though the blade JUST stops short of where it's supposed to. Quality wise, everything is superb and I'm very happy. Just wanted to know if this is normal or not. I've read of several other people with the Graphtec 6000 cutters having this happen. 2 passes fixes the hang nail problem but the quality of the work overall is very slightly diminished as far as I can tell. Can anyone confirm this is ok? I'm working with lettering around about 7mm in diametre. Thanks!
  15. phil lancaster

    original ct 630 driver disc lost

    Hi i am using signblazer elemements on the com port in device manager and the baud rate is 9600 the baud rate in the keyspan assistant i am lead to believe is the test speed as when i reduce it to 9600and test it passes but it reverts back to the higher value after testing phil
  16. phil lancaster

    original ct 630 driver disc lost

    hi the cutter is stating that it is online in the display and the test speed can be lowered to 9600 i have tested it in both and it passes the test
  17. Jburns

    Western Belt Buckle

    Hi Karl, I actually own the same machine. Practice on some blank plastic plates first. 1. Turn on the machine and set the origin. 2. Type you text , and outlines by keycode, and thru F7 or F8 page until it shows Fit text, or something like that. Set your text by height or by width. 3. Set engraving passes speed and pressure to appropriate settings depending on the metal. Most of this is found in the user manual - do you have a copy? I have PDF if you want to send me a PM with your email.
  18. Man, I just wrapped up some MX decals for a family members company. I bought some 6 mil vinyl along with 12 Mil Heavy duty gloss laminate for MX , ssnow mobiles, etc. I had to contour cut - 60 deg. blade- Tangental mode-- almost highest force setting on the GS15 vinyl cutter- took three passes. Total is 18 mil THICK.- a credit card is about 20 mil I think. Turned out very clean for 3 passes Pics:
  19. So I've had an MH series cutter for a few years now, have printed thousands of decals from it. I had the opportunity to get a good deal on a used SC...and larger. (50 vs 30). Well, THOUGHT it was a good deal. I got it and found out it was NOT the SC2 that I thought, rather an older SC. SO i have a few questions, and i tend to talk too much so, apologize when this gets wordy....bare with me! 1. First off, am I better off sticking with my MH 871 mk2 than the SC ?? The MH I notice goes much lower in speed and different increments, compared to 100/200/300 etc on the SC.. is the SC a better machine still even if older? 2 Secondly I did some tests.. I'm getting a lot of jagged lines on just like a letter A for example. I did a square test and corners are good, I dont think the offset has anything to do with it, tried 25 and 30 and didnt notice a difference. I put in a new 45* blade. I usually ran my MH speed around 160. I turned on this SC and saw the speed was set at 600, holy crap! Looking online it seems common people run them 300-400 or higher no problem. I turned my speed down to 100 and the lines come out FINE. 200 they come out 90% but almost look a little fuzzy. 300 and they are starting to get pretty obviously wavy. What is causing this wavyness? I played around with blade height, I felt like it was too far out. Its barley visible and passes the "cut a piece by hand" test.. but again i see post of people running pressure 40 or much less. that barley cuts for me. i had to set pressure up to like 160, and it seems to weed fine, barley leaving marks on the backing. but why the need for so high? should i poke the blade out more and decrease pressure or is it "whatever works" kinda combination? Im just concerned for small stuff, and also want to make sure i didnt get a broken/worn out unit. 3. i read about jagged edges maybe being caused by needing an adjustment of the belt tension, is there a way to test that? this thing is used but i dont think it has too many cuts ran through it. im really interested in being able to get those 300-400 speeds, compared to running at 160 on the MH that will be super nice to get things moved through a little quicker.... but not at the price of horrible cuts. Its 100% not my design, ive cut hundreds of them. but clearly im missing a magic combo of settings / blade height or that belt is loose or something. anyone got any ideas on how i can get it dialed in? ive searched allover and watched the setup video... throwing in the towel, help! Thank you!!!!!
  20. Wildgoose

    Is the MH machines worth it?

    You have and will undoubtably get a lot of opinions on this or that cutter. I think the general consensus though tends to say "Buy the best cutter you can afford". Even though this forum is supported by USCutter almost everyone on here is a normal Jane or Joe and not employee's so we can offer real opinions and generally recommend buying at least the SC and like mentioned the new SC2 is probably worth the little extra. If you are going to splurge at all do it in the cutter. All the peripherals are mostly consumables that you can grab any old time. I can say with authority this is probably one of the funnest hobbies out there and can turn into a business if you want it to. If you don't then still get a good cutter, you will be less frustrated during the learning stages. I will never NOT have a cutter after having one. There are so many uses and fun things to do and give out etc... It's addictive and a blast. There are a decent amount that won't take the effort to learn, and you can bet your butt that you will have some frustration at first but it soon passes and you get the hang of it. It ain't rocket science but it does require a few skills that are not the norm.
  21. I have VinylMaster Cut v4.0, and can't find how to make the segments of a circle, say, into one continuous line. I'm trying to cut stencils for airbrushing, out of thick plastic sheets. I know I should make several passes, and I have the pressure as high as it'll go. But the shape is being cut in segments, not as one continuous line, so the three segments of the circle, for example, are not exactly meeting where one stops and the next one begins. So when I punch out the cut shape, in order to end up with a negative shape (stencil), there are little nubs where the segments meet. I'd rather the shape cut out in one continuous line, so I don't have to smooth or file down the little nubs. I've already started a help ticket, and didn't get any help at all from the people who sold me the software along with my USCutter. TIA for any help you can offer!
  22. darcshadow

    Connecting Segments

    Ok, so the egg has three segments when cutting the plastic, it does the same when cutting Vinyl? That sounds like a design issue. If the egg is designed as one continuous line it should cut that way. Post the egg vector and we'll take a look at it. The fact that it cuts the vinyl just fine in one pass and the plastic takes 4 passes and doesn't cut perfect would be a tracking issue for the plastic. But if we can get it to at least do the whole egg in a continuous segment that would help.
  23. I have cut a few sets, I used a cricut cutting mat and did two slow passes on each piece and they came out good. I got my material from a gun show a few years back, but you can buy a 5" x 7" piece from Talon for $10

    Graphtec CE6000 Trapping Film

    what does that mean "trapping the film"? Please explain. How did you set your blade depth? If the vinyl is too thick, try making 2 passes instead of 1 pass. You don't state what type of vinyl your trying to cut, but maybe you purchased the wrong machine.. The Graphtec FC has a lot more down force than the CE6000.

    Help cutting 3M 1080

    which cutter are you using? Try 2 passes. instead of 1 ?..Although I have never cut it..