Search the Community

Showing results for 'passes'.


Didn't find what you were looking for? Try searching for:


More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to USCutter
    • Shop Online
    • Customer Support
    • Information For New Equipment Owners
    • Website and Company Feedback
  • Equipment Discussion & Support
    • Vinyl Cutters
    • Heat Presses
    • Competitor Cutter Help
    • Printers
    • Laminators
    • Engravers
  • USCutter Community
    • Community Rules & Announcements
    • Introductions
    • General discussion
    • Show your work
    • Instructional Contributions
    • T-Shirts and/ or Garments
    • Sublimation
    • Business Practices, Sales and Pricing, etc.
    • Mac Users Board
    • Pre-sale questions
    • Off Topic Section
  • Software Discussion & Support
    • VinylMaster CUT, LTR, PRO & DSR
    • Sure Cuts A Lot Pro
    • Signcut
    • SignBlazer
    • Flexi
    • Corel Draw
    • Adobe Illustrator
    • Inkscape
    • Other Software Programs
  • Material Discussion
    • Vinyl
    • Other Materials
  • Feedback Section
    • Criticism and Complaints about USCutter
    • USCutter Equipment Feedback or Suggestions
  • Graphic help and requests
    • General Help
    • Vectorizing
    • Graphic Requests
    • Fonts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 357 results

  1. trying to cut the very thick material in one pass causes more drag than if done in multiple passes - that causes slippage. I too never subjected any of my plotters to cutting 30 mil magnets - for rectangles I used straight edge and a corner rounding tool.
  2. I am not understanding how the amount of passes would correct the dimensions and the non square cuts that I am trying to solve? Can you enlighten me? Thank you so much for helping!
  3. I have never cut magnet, but I have read that most people who cut thick materials are cutting with 2-3 passes. Are you doing that? Or just trying to cut with 1 deep pass?
  4. Hello, I have been cutting vinyl and HTV with no problem but then here comes the cardstock, making look like I don't know what I'm doing. Ha. I am trying to cut out invitations and cupcake toppers with my MH-871 and I am unsure of the settings I need to use. I have a cutting mat for it and I installed the 60 degree blade, but I am having trouble getting it to cut all the way through without two passes and for some reason it is shifting just a tiny bit and making it to where there are two cuts instead of just going through the same path twice. Help please!
  5. The lower end cutters tend to drift because they just don't track as well. How are you cutting it twice? - are you sending it to the cutter twice, or do you have the design layered in your software? When I have to make multiple passes, I always layer and send it to the cutter once. I got much better results from my LP that way.
  6. mihaidimitras

    help cutting reflective vinyl with the titan 3

    Hi i have the same Titan 3 and the same material 3m 3931 for me the setting that works is pressure 650- 675 and a 60 deg blade. Instead using a lot of material just use a piece and the test button until you get a perfect cut and the depth that you need and go from there . The second option would be to cut twice( 2 passes on the same path) .
  7. MZ SKEETER

    LP3 Suction

    Vinyl cutters/Plotters use the same basic functions and have for many years, Some with just more bells and whistles. Depending on which company made it, as to what they put on their button controls. Control panel. My Graphtec says Force. Or even in the cutting software, what they call it. Pressure/Force is the same thing. When someone asks about either one for their settings, we know what they are talking about. I might be wrong, but I think this last version LP3 cutters were introduced in 2018. Several different Laser Pointer models in the past. By the way, how did you set your blade depth. ? Reason I ask, is because UScutter, keeps posting videos with the wrong way to do it, and it is too much blade depth exposed. Blade depth is the first thing that you start with and it has to be correct from the git go, or the rest of your settings will not be correct. Tip: Never be pulling from the roll while cutting, Always have enough vinyl slack to do the order. My cutter has a prefeed, It helps with tracking and pulling the vinyl to give it the slack it needs. Buyers guide says this on reflective and your cutter. But buyers have tried different materials with their cutters. Some use 2 passes while cutting thicker materials. NOT for use on laminate sandblast mask reflective window tint https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new Your welcome
  8. MZ SKEETER

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    Corners lifting like that is usually too much blade exposed. On thicker stuff, just leave the blade alone and make 2 passes instead of 1 pass. Sometimes 3 passes.
  9. Intheshaw

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    Dakota, you ever figure out about the passes? I'll be in Maui in a couple of days, figured it was just the $25 fee like always. Only restrictions I'm seeing in the 1.50 reservation fee for a sunrise.
  10. darcshadow

    Cutting Plastic

    I would say no as well, not sure the blade would even be big enough and if it is, it would not be able to do the pressure required to cut something that thick. It might be possible if you do 2 or 3 passes, but I would not count on the accuracy of the MH to be consistent enough to exactly trace the same path.
  11. haumana

    Hi Everyone!

    I strictly use 60*, however, I also cut 651 95% of the time. If I'm finding something tough to cut, I would rather do 2-passes using a 60*, than blade swapping. I do not want the hassle of having to adjusting blade depths unless I really, really, really have to ... like when I need to take the holder apart to clean it up and de-gunk whatever bits of vinyl might have gotten stuck in there.
  12. third tab in production manager of your graphtec pro studio has a radio button for "passes" - make it 2 passes and let your software do it for you. if a thick hard to cut item like a sandblast mask you should be using a red blade holder and blade and not the blue holder that comes with the plotter
  13. make 2 passes instead of 1 pass. Even 3 passes if you have to.
  14. ShaneGreen

    Noob Questions

    White is my nemesis. No matter what brand I try it takes more pressure and just doesn't leave as nice a cut as the other colors. I've noticed I can cut a 24" x 60" red or black 3M reflective in two passes and it's a nice clean edge. Cut the same design in white reflective and there is so much drag that the 1st and 2nd cut don't always line up...frustrating. As for the Greenstar, I bought a bunch with my cutter for practice. Didn't care how much I wasted or gave away at the price. It was a great learning experience, because once I got good at cutting and weeding it I switched to 651 and it was night and day different. The 651 cuts, weeds and lays so much nicer! Can't imagine how much time and headache I would have saved myself if I'd just started with 651 and a CleanCut blade....but think of all the lessons I wouldn't have learned.
  15. Tenfour86

    Looking for a laser cutter option

    I have a Full Spectrum Laser, 45 watt, Gen 5 unit (now marketed as an H-Series laser) that I have been pretty happy with. I chose it because it was relatively comparable to similar sized units offered by Epilog, Trotec, and Universal Laser, but way more affordable for me with a price tag of $3,000 at the time. Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with the eBay units. Most of them seemed to have pretty small engraving areas and I couldn't find much information on control software for them when I was looking to buy, which is ultimately what convinced me to buy from a brick and mortar company. I can offer some insight from my experience though. 40 watts is a good starting point, but you'll soon realize more power would be helpful. Definitely go with a higher wattage if you can, and you won't be disappointed. I won't say that wattage doesn't matter as much when engraving, but it really makes a difference when cutting. At 45 watts it's still a challenge for me to get through 1/4 ply (which is closer to 3/16 really) or 8 oz. leather even with multiple passes. The fewer passes you have to make, and the faster you can make them, the cleaner your cuts will be. My first pass when cutting is generally very clean, but subsequent passes will begin to char or deposit smoke. Equally as important as wattage is the usable engraving area of the machine. 20x12 works for most of my small projects, but as a nice perk, the bottom of my machine is removable which allows it to be lifted up or set on top of large objects that don't fit inside. Also consider height of the machine too since you're looking to fit a rotary attachment in there. The rotary attachment plus the object on top of it take up vertical space, and you still need some to spare in order to focus your lens. I’m not sure I could get a rotary attachment and drinking glass into my machine and still have room to focus without first removing the bottom and raising it up. FSL even started producing an extension box because of this. I can't comment much on laser control software as I've only used retinaengrave, so hopefully others on here can speak about the software other machines use. As an aside, my laser will certainly engrave glass, but I've found that sandblasting will produce a much more opaque and deeper etch than my laser can. You can get more detail with a laser though, so it's a tradeoff either way.
  16. That stuff is 7 mil and really tough on blades. I don't know how you could ever forecast a blade problem. I would make sure your prices are high enough to cover an occasional issue because it's going to happen again. I bought a little lighted high magnification hand held microscope someone on the forum had suggested. Similar to this:https://www.ebay.com/p/Pocket-Microscope-Carson-MicroBrite-Plus-60x120x-Power-LED-Lighted/2254813830?iid=113506320660&chn=ps It takes some figuring out but you can actually see your blade tip and what shape it's in. That's how I figured out I actually sanded my tip off trying to cut glitter HTV in two passes.
  17. Hello Everyone, I purchased my SC2 back in September knowing full well from these forums that it was in fact a value cutter. My needs aren't that of a sign shop or even a decal shop so I thought maybe given the relative low use I planned to use this for wouldn't be a problem and the issues I've encountered to date haven't specifically been with the machine itself with the exception of setting the blade, which I have since found the instructions posted countless times here. What I'm having issues with now is the width of my stencils are ~30" and as it gets to the 26" > 30" mark(right to left) the cut begins to get less and less eventually not happening at all. Now with the help of reading through all these posts I've seen similar issues listed here Carrier off track from shipping or incorrect blade setting etc. As stated above I did initially set blade incorrectly and have since changed, set, reset multiple times following the directions of Mz Skeeter(I hope I spelled that correctly from memory) also I've checked to see if the carrier was on track and w/out completely disassembling the unit near as I can tell both wheels/rollers are in the correct channel. I'm really just looking for any assistance you guys can provide. I haven't contacted support as of yet, as I was hoping to draw on the vast knowledge of this group before going that far. Details: Windows 10 machine SC2 34" Cutting 5mil Duralar VinylMaster Cut 4.0 - I've also had it making 2 passes/cuts Individual sheets being fed Hopefully I have provided enough information Chris Also in the Setting up cutter guide it provided this link to a video on checking that carrier was on track which is unavailable. https://youtu.be/4EHPvnLYoI4
  18. Dakotagrafx

    magnetic material (newbie question)

    people have done it - sometimes with multiple passes - personally I would never put something that thick thru my main plotter. we did have a guy a few years back that kept an old MH just for stuff like this so he didn't abuse his graphtec
  19. MZ SKEETER

    SC2 34" left side not cutting

    then try raising the force a little and see what results you get. 2 passes would be the best way.
  20. haumana

    Mele Kalikimaka!

    The Fed's website says that it's $25/car. Even the Annual passes are cheaper than $180 I can't believe they have to take reservations too. It must've gotten a lot busier than it used to be.
  21. Greetings! I am new to the forum, and new to vinyl cutting. I browsed the forums quite a bit before and after ordering my SC2 and have looked around a little since cutting my first few experiments. I really like how this forum appears to be a real community helping each other out.. I hope to learn and share as much as I can in the future. I am a graphic designs for a semi large screen print and embroidery house in Texas and I am a self proclaimed "vector snob". I have a VERY good understanding of the ins and outs of Adobe illustrator so please let me know if you have any questions. The examples I have attached were created in Adobe Illustrator and the vector files opened in the "Vinyl Master Cut V4" and cut with no further editing in that software. I work on a windows PC and I have my plotter set up with a serial cable.I read the suggestions on here for setting up the blade depth and did my best to set my machine up that way. All of the white graphics were on Oracal 651 material and cut with my machine set to 100 speed, the black graphics were on 651and i think they cut at 500, and the yellow was on 751C also at 500. The yellow graphic actually looks pretty decent but its on the bigger side and there are still some little things i would like to clean up.. and it ran way faster than the white vinyl. OK now that I feel like I got the particulars out of the way... I am wondering if my passion for clean vector graphics is ruining my expectations of what my plotter is actually cutting. I would have thought that straight lines and rectangles would be bread and butter but that seems to be my major beef. I added the image of the skull because that one cut pretty much perfectly. My biggest gripe is with the quality of the text. The tops and bottoms and vertical lines across the lettering dont stay straight and seem inconsistent across the letters. I have "hangnails" and I have read about bumping the blade offset "a little" will help with that.. my machine is at .35 passes are 1.. what should I bump it to? People are cutting text way smaller than this and I dont know if my expectations are screwy or if there is maybe something I am missing. I would love to hear any input you have on either clearing up my expectations OR how i may be able to clean up my cuts.. Thank you and I hope to hear back from someone!
  22. koulpeeplz

    Signcut Makes Multiple Passes

    Hello Everyone, Hoping someone on here can help me out... Signcut makes 2-3 passes over the same cut even though I have it set to only make 1 pass. Not sure what i am doing wrong if anything. I was able to reduce the number of nodes the vectorized image had so I don't think thats the problem. Any help would be appreciated! Here's my setup: Macbook OSx 10.5.8 Signcut Pro w/Mac Build 1.07 AI CS4 Maybe the trace option in AI is causing this? I just need it to stop after the first pass and move on to the next, you know...lol! Thanks!
  23. Cal

    Which vinyl has the strongest adhesive?

    The above is good advise. You did not tell us what pressure you were using, or how long you are letting the gun stay in one place. I use 50-60# on glass, using Oracal 651- but I keep the gun moving. Less detail is better IMO, or at least less small detail. When I do glass work, I go over the design 4 times, but I am moving quickly. I move the gun from left to right. Pass 1, holding the glass upright and turning the glass as needed. Pass 2, holding the glass upside down and turning it as needed. Pass 3, holding the glass horizontally by the bottom and rolling the glass around & Pass 4, holding the glass horizontally by the top and rolling the glass around. This is four quick passes to be sure that the design is done evenly, especially at the edges. Here is a set of flight glasses with a very simple design. Total time in the blast cabinet for each glass was probably in the 30-40 second range for all four passes. Cal
  24. MZ SKEETER

    PRS number for LaserPoint2

    There is no set pressure/force for any vinyl cutter or vinyl. You must follow the blade depth set up instructions to set the force for any vinyl cutter and vinyl. You may even need to make 2-3 different passes on hard to cut vinyl. You have to experiment with your force using the TEST feature. Then write it down and keep it for the future. Then it will be your starting point, next time. How to set blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing., You should just barely see and feel the blade tip out of the blade holder.
  25. Dakotagrafx

    Lxi issue.

    sounds like you have 2 issues than - too much blade exposure (the reason it is cutting thru) and multiple copies of the image on top of each other (guessing you are tracing them) other option on multiple passes is in version 12 in production manager on the third tab you can select how many passes it will cut on the same image for ultra thick material