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Found 388 results

  1. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    Why are you doing 2 passes? If the blade is set correctly, and you could cut it with the blade holder. no need to cut 2 passes.
  2. haumana

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    I have an original LP and my base settings, after getting the proper blade exposure, is 60 speed, and the pressure varies between 80-105 depending on what type, color, and age of vinyl. It it's a thicker material, I make 2 or more passes. If I have to do a double layer of vinyl, like reflective on any kind of vinyl base, that will usually take 3 or 4 passes. If it's an intricate detailed graphic or small text, then I slow the machine down. I cannot speak for anyone else, but when I start getting perforated type cuts, I take a look at my blade holder - to make sure it's clean, because itty bitty bits of vinyl will work its way up the in the small blade holder hole (which completely boggles my mind), and I also take a very good look at the cutting strip. I will shamefully admit needing to change the cutting strip on my LP several times because I wasn't paying attention to when my origin was and the blade and carriage just ran off the vinyl and started to cut in the strip, which isn't as self-healing as I would like it to me. You didn't state how old/new your machine was, but you can also check the blade tip, or maybe just replace the blade all together. I recommend CleanCut Blade(s), and a 60-degree blade to add to your machine accessories. Good luck, keep us posted.
  3. ShaneGreen

    3m reflective issues

    I've got in three rolls of 3m Scotchlite 5100-85, the red and black seem to cut fine but I'm struggling with this white. LaserPoint II with a new Cleancut-60 blade (blade height set to Ms Skeeterz standards, as always). For reference, Oracal 651 cuts at 75-110 grams of force (depending on color) and 400mm/sec. The reflective black and red are doing fine at 400grams of force and 100mm/sec. Four times the force and slow, it's what I expected. But this white....500grams 100mm/sec and two passes and even then it's tough to weed. The next step up in speed is 200mm/sec and it won't cut cleanly at any pressure with that speed . The attached picture is what happens at 200mm/sec OR with just one pass OR any pressure below 500grams. The left side of the picture shows the front of the decal. It's an oval with a bison in the middle. The right hand side is the back of vinyl after it comes off the carrier sheet (the sticky side). So anything below 500gm, 100mm/s, two passes and this is what I get: - The front looks like it makes a nice clean cut. - The rear looks like a nice clean cut. If you take it off the backing, like in the picture, it separates right where it should. - The carrier sheet shows a defined indentation every place you cut. - Lots of trash builds up on the blade tip with just this little 2x3 decal. - It's hard to get it to start weeding and then as you're pealing it off it will rip. Seriously, it's easier to rip the vinyl then it is to weed it on the cutline. - Any thin sections won't stay stuck to the backing once it's weeded. Something like a flame is completely impossible. The other colors aren't doing this. - I have a 0.050 weed box around it. About 80% of the box weeds fine and then short sections will either not weed or the top layer comes off leaving the reflective bottom layer behind. I thought about putting transfer tape on it, removing the carrier and weeding that way to see what would happen. It would sure make multi-layered images a pain. Should the white be this much different from the red and black? Am I stuck with multiple passes at turtle speed? Any recommendations?
  4. Okay, I followed those steps to get the blade to poke out as little as possible while still cutting vinyl and not backing, and changed the offset to 0. At 1 Pass, the blade only cuts deep enough if set to 28. At 2 Passes, it still needs to be around 24. With either force setting, the same issues with corners persists. With two passes it's less noticeable because sometimes it will cut bad on one of the passes but not the other pass, but in the end that still leaves for a weird cut. Do you know if there are any other settings that might be interfering as well?
  5. ELemon

    Leather

    How many of you have been cutting Faux Leather with your Cameo or Cricut? I have been having the hardest time finding either good content that is helpful (video or just websites) with tips or ways to cut Faux Leather. The picture below has a few problems I am trying to solve. 1. Cutting into my mat. I soon wont have a mat to use if this keeps up, lol. For that particular project I used a Deep Cut Blade set at 18; Speed: 3; Force: 33; Passes: 1. ( Later I tried again with my AutoBlade set to 10; Speed: 3; Force:33; and Passes: 2 and still had deep cuts into my mat. 2. The mat seems to not be lining up right when I load it because it cut above the grid lines. 3. I was having problems with the leather moving around a lot and I seem to of resolved that issue with painters tape. So pretty much my main issue is just how to figure out with this leather the right cut setting. I have used and tried the "standard preset" for faux leather paper that comes with Silhouette Studio but it was not cutting at all thats why I got the deep cut blade. I feel like I could of done without it though because the Auto Blade does a decent job especially with 2 passes. Does anyone just feed their material straight in? How does that work for you?
  6. Have you ever looked at your teflon cutting strip to make sure it is free of scratches and gouges? That could cause many problems. If your test cut cuts at 150, then you shouldn't have to change it. Why did you switch off of Flexistarter? I still use Flexistarter for all of my cutting. I have since 2006. If it was working well, why change it? If you are cutting very small detailed work, you cut on a slow speed. NOT max. Never should you ever have to cut 2.5 mil in 2 passes.
  7. The fact that you are almost going thru the wax paper backing at higher force, is too much blade exposed. It is not possible if the blade depth is set correctly Oracal 651 should never have to use 2 passes. It is only 2.5 mil thick. With that Clean Cut blade you may also have broken the tip off, very easy to do. It takes much less force than regular blades. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  8. ShaneGreen

    Reflective

    Definitely get you a "CleanCut" blade. It cuts reflective so much better. Slow down as slow as it can go and you may still have to do 2 passes. I have a LP II and have spent days testing and retesting reflective. I've finally settled on: - a 60 degree CleanCut blade, - 450g of force. "Force" seems to be pretty relative and varies from machine to machine. I cut 651 at 125g but I've seen people say they use anywhere from 50 to 200. But mine needs roughly 3 1/2 times the force to cut reflective. - a speed of 100. That's the slowest mine will go. - two passes. It will cut in one pass the majority of the time, but I cut larger decals and when it doesn't complete the cut I'm wasting a lot of time and money. - weed immediately. Reflective seems to self-heal a lot quicker than 651. - be careful of fine details. Things like the dot on the letter "i" may cause you problems staying stuck to the backing paper. - Test, test and test some more.
  9. It has been posted many,many times on here about making multiple passes. It's not just magnet material. It's sticky flock. glitter HTV material, carbon fiber, reflective and many other thick materials. According to the UScutter buying guide, your not even supposed to cut high intensity reflective that is over 23 mil, but people do it and do it with 2 or more passes. But their taking that chance of tearing up their machine doing it. Here is the buying guide. You don't see magnet on the buying guide. https://www.uscutter.com/index/page/static/subpage/buying_guides_new
  10. I don't understand what you're saying? I asked a question asking how the multiple passes physically works? If the blade is either fully down or fully up, how exactly does multiple passes work? If the blade advances let's say 200 microns down each pass, this would be understandable to me as it's taking less of a 'bite' of the material per pass and is how other types of machines with a Z axis work. (CNC background) Sorry if I sounded confusing
  11. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  12. haumana

    pressure settings

    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  13. MZ SKEETER

    pressure settings

    There are not any set in stone settings. You have to experiment with force. No 2 cutters are alike, even the same model can be different. What tutorial? Too many wrong instructions out there. You must set your blade depth correctly to the vinyl that your cutting. Do not use instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You will need a very sharp blade to cut glitter, as it dulls blades fast. Run some test cuts. You may even need to run 2 passes, instead of 1. Directions below are for sign vinyl. You may need the blade out a little farther to cut glitter. There are not any set in stone settings, write them down. It still won't be right the next time, but hopefully close. Or keep an extra blade holder for glitter vinyl. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. This thread answered all of your questions. The higher the number, the more force you are using.
  14. Hi all, I have a few pieces of clothing that have what appears to be a thick iron-on media, I've attached a sample. Is there a product like this that can be cut with a vinyl cutter and ironed on? I would assume it would need a couple passes I'm the cutter to cut through! Any guidance is appreciated!
  15. Tenfour86

    Looking for a laser cutter option

    I have a Full Spectrum Laser, 45 watt, Gen 5 unit (now marketed as an H-Series laser) that I have been pretty happy with. I chose it because it was relatively comparable to similar sized units offered by Epilog, Trotec, and Universal Laser, but way more affordable for me with a price tag of $3,000 at the time. Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with the eBay units. Most of them seemed to have pretty small engraving areas and I couldn't find much information on control software for them when I was looking to buy, which is ultimately what convinced me to buy from a brick and mortar company. I can offer some insight from my experience though. 40 watts is a good starting point, but you'll soon realize more power would be helpful. Definitely go with a higher wattage if you can, and you won't be disappointed. I won't say that wattage doesn't matter as much when engraving, but it really makes a difference when cutting. At 45 watts it's still a challenge for me to get through 1/4 ply (which is closer to 3/16 really) or 8 oz. leather even with multiple passes. The fewer passes you have to make, and the faster you can make them, the cleaner your cuts will be. My first pass when cutting is generally very clean, but subsequent passes will begin to char or deposit smoke. Equally as important as wattage is the usable engraving area of the machine. 20x12 works for most of my small projects, but as a nice perk, the bottom of my machine is removable which allows it to be lifted up or set on top of large objects that don't fit inside. Also consider height of the machine too since you're looking to fit a rotary attachment in there. The rotary attachment plus the object on top of it take up vertical space, and you still need some to spare in order to focus your lens. I’m not sure I could get a rotary attachment and drinking glass into my machine and still have room to focus without first removing the bottom and raising it up. FSL even started producing an extension box because of this. I can't comment much on laser control software as I've only used retinaengrave, so hopefully others on here can speak about the software other machines use. As an aside, my laser will certainly engrave glass, but I've found that sandblasting will produce a much more opaque and deeper etch than my laser can. You can get more detail with a laser though, so it's a tradeoff either way.
  16. MZ SKEETER

    Baseline Cutter Setting Chart

    No, there are not any set in stone settings, First you must set your blade depth correctly for each of those materials, then you will know your force. It is very important to set your blade depth correctly first. Run speed slow until you learn your cutter. Slow speed also for detailed designs and text. Fast doesn't make your cutting any better. I always run slow. Each cutter can be different, even the same model. After you do each of these materials. you can write down your settings yourself. Then you will be close next time. Some thicker materials you may want to cut with 2 passes. Even the same vinyl can be a little different and require more force. It could be older and stiffer. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  17. Wildgoose

    Getting a clean cut for photo magnet

    Have you tried multiple lighter cuts? Like maybe 3 passes?
  18. haumana

    Cutting rubber sheet?

    If you're willing to try it on your cutter - just use a carrier mat, and you'll probably need to do multiple passes. How many does he need to get done?
  19. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 MK2

    Get yourself some good vinyl also. I see your using Greenstar, consider it practice vinyl only. Get some Oracal 651 or higher. You do not need 2 passes for sign vinyl. It is only 3 mil thick. Overcut should be your cutting software.
  20. 1clo1

    MH871 MK2

    Thanks for the reply, how do I set the overcut? I set the blade per skeeters instructions, the blade is the brand new original one that came with the cutter, only cut a few times with damaged carriage and twice with new carriages, so unless it was damaged from the bad carriage, the blade should be good. I thought of running 2 passes, would that work?
  21. haumana

    CE7000/ CE5000

    I can't speak to a CE7000, but it definitely works on my CE6000 Plus. I would say try it, because it really couldn't hurt. For material that thick, you might want to consider multiple passes.
  22. If you have some kind of programs/registry cleaner, I would try running that after uninstalling VM to remove as much traces of the program as possible. Sometimes it takes several passes. Then reboot, and reinstall. At this point, you don't have anything else to lose. How big are the files and/or graphics that you're trying to keep open? Another thing you can try is to download and install a different version of VM and see if that still happens. When is it shutting down? When you send the job to cut, or while you're actively working on the graphic? etc.
  23. MZ SKEETER

    Blades that last longer than Clean Cut?

    Corners lifting like that is usually too much blade exposed. On thicker stuff, just leave the blade alone and make 2 passes instead of 1 pass. Sometimes 3 passes.
  24. Rowdydawg

    Not getting a complete cut thru with CE6000

    I actually had a bad blade. I returned it and did what @MZ SKEETER suggested and it’s cutting great now. I’ve been able to cut .5mil matte Mylar with the deep-cut blade for a Silhouette Cameo. I can also cut .7mil with 2 passes
  25. kmorenor

    Trouble with my us cutter mh 871

    Hey man, thank you for answering. Are you sure you have the blade holder inside the clamp? Yes it is. Is the carriage head wheels firmly down in the rail? Yes, I double checked. As a matter of fact I just replaced the carriage, but the problem persists. Is the blade holder going up and down? Yes, i see it going up and down. But when it goes down, i notice it lacks strength. How did you set your blade depth? Manually. Before it malfunctioned, i use to have less than 1 mm out of blade. Now I need up to 3 mm to cut just heat transfer vinyl, that's the only material it cuts. Is this a new cutter? No, it's been working for 5 years, but other than that, it's perfect. What do you mean, just leaves the mark? It means the blade leaves the trail where it passes, but doesn't go trough the vinyl. Have you checked that you haven't broken the blade tip off? I have tried with several brand new blades. It started randomly, just one day I needed to cut htv, but it wouldn't go through with my normal settings, you know, I used to work with medium speed and about 120-90 g in force. Now, I have to set it at maximum. Can you see the marks it leaves in the sketch. And if I pull it up just a little bit, it doesn't touch the paper. Will send videos. Thanks.