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Found 374 results

  1. haumana

    Mr

    Possibly. You'd need to use a carrier sheet, and it might take several passes. Let us know your results. Media type Self-adhesive marking film (vinyl, fluorescent, reflective) excluding high-intensity reflective film, up to 0.25 mm thickness Polyester film, up to 0.25mm thickness (unguaranteed accuracy)
  2. I just upgraded to a Graphtech and I can't seem to find the option to do a double pass and all my googling isn't turning up anything so far. Is this something possible in CM4? The vinyl I'm cutting small text out of weeds effortlessly if I do a double pass on the cut. I'm using a ce7000-40 btw. Thanks!
  3. Have you ever looked at your teflon cutting strip to make sure it is free of scratches and gouges? That could cause many problems. If your test cut cuts at 150, then you shouldn't have to change it. Why did you switch off of Flexistarter? I still use Flexistarter for all of my cutting. I have since 2006. If it was working well, why change it? If you are cutting very small detailed work, you cut on a slow speed. NOT max. Never should you ever have to cut 2.5 mil in 2 passes.
  4. The fact that you are almost going thru the wax paper backing at higher force, is too much blade exposed. It is not possible if the blade depth is set correctly Oracal 651 should never have to use 2 passes. It is only 2.5 mil thick. With that Clean Cut blade you may also have broken the tip off, very easy to do. It takes much less force than regular blades. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  5. haumana

    pressure settings

    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  6. MZ SKEETER

    pressure settings

    There are not any set in stone settings. You have to experiment with force. No 2 cutters are alike, even the same model can be different. What tutorial? Too many wrong instructions out there. You must set your blade depth correctly to the vinyl that your cutting. Do not use instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You will need a very sharp blade to cut glitter, as it dulls blades fast. Run some test cuts. You may even need to run 2 passes, instead of 1. Directions below are for sign vinyl. You may need the blade out a little farther to cut glitter. There are not any set in stone settings, write them down. It still won't be right the next time, but hopefully close. Or keep an extra blade holder for glitter vinyl. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. This thread answered all of your questions. The higher the number, the more force you are using.
  7. Hi all, I have a few pieces of clothing that have what appears to be a thick iron-on media, I've attached a sample. Is there a product like this that can be cut with a vinyl cutter and ironed on? I would assume it would need a couple passes I'm the cutter to cut through! Any guidance is appreciated!
  8. MZ SKEETER

    Baseline Cutter Setting Chart

    No, there are not any set in stone settings, First you must set your blade depth correctly for each of those materials, then you will know your force. It is very important to set your blade depth correctly first. Run speed slow until you learn your cutter. Slow speed also for detailed designs and text. Fast doesn't make your cutting any better. I always run slow. Each cutter can be different, even the same model. After you do each of these materials. you can write down your settings yourself. Then you will be close next time. Some thicker materials you may want to cut with 2 passes. Even the same vinyl can be a little different and require more force. It could be older and stiffer. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  9. Wildgoose

    Getting a clean cut for photo magnet

    Have you tried multiple lighter cuts? Like maybe 3 passes?
  10. haumana

    Cutting rubber sheet?

    If you're willing to try it on your cutter - just use a carrier mat, and you'll probably need to do multiple passes. How many does he need to get done?
  11. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 MK2

    Get yourself some good vinyl also. I see your using Greenstar, consider it practice vinyl only. Get some Oracal 651 or higher. You do not need 2 passes for sign vinyl. It is only 3 mil thick. Overcut should be your cutting software.
  12. 1clo1

    MH871 MK2

    Thanks for the reply, how do I set the overcut? I set the blade per skeeters instructions, the blade is the brand new original one that came with the cutter, only cut a few times with damaged carriage and twice with new carriages, so unless it was damaged from the bad carriage, the blade should be good. I thought of running 2 passes, would that work?
  13. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  14. What kind of vinyl are you using that you have to do 2 passes? CM 4 user manual. 4.4 Layer Tab properties shows> passes at lower left corner.
  15. haumana

    CE7000/ CE5000

    I can't speak to a CE7000, but it definitely works on my CE6000 Plus. I would say try it, because it really couldn't hurt. For material that thick, you might want to consider multiple passes.
  16. If you have some kind of programs/registry cleaner, I would try running that after uninstalling VM to remove as much traces of the program as possible. Sometimes it takes several passes. Then reboot, and reinstall. At this point, you don't have anything else to lose. How big are the files and/or graphics that you're trying to keep open? Another thing you can try is to download and install a different version of VM and see if that still happens. When is it shutting down? When you send the job to cut, or while you're actively working on the graphic? etc.
  17. Repeat cutting over the same cutfile is usually because of the following reasons: The artwork has been duplicated i.e. there is a perfect copy of the artwork on top of itself. By using the Object Manager from the Design Center (right side of program) you can see all the objects. Also, select the artwork and press delete, if it remains then there was a duplicate and there maybe more than one. This can happen when artwork is selected and pressing the + key or Duplicate button from the toolbar. Passes in the Send to Cut module has been set to 2 or more. Some cutters have an option to Repeat cut. Removing duplicates, settings passes to 1 or setting Repeat cut off should resolve this issue.
  18. haumana

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    I'm not sure if I missed it or not, but what software are you using to cut, and if required, is it activated? Have you tried to cut your design using a different cutting software? There is a time and place to do 2 passes. I don't know the rigidity of the vinyl you're using, but how are you doing the 2 passes? (i.e. one at a time, or layering the design twice and sending it to the cutter once?)
  19. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    The MH cutter does not have good tracking, so cutting vinyl like that probably will not cut correctly with 2 passes. Never mind saw the thickness. You should not need 2 passes to cut that. Use 1 pass.
  20. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    Why are you doing 2 passes? If the blade is set correctly, and you could cut it with the blade holder. no need to cut 2 passes.
  21. haumana

    MH871 Problem Cutting

    I have an original LP and my base settings, after getting the proper blade exposure, is 60 speed, and the pressure varies between 80-105 depending on what type, color, and age of vinyl. It it's a thicker material, I make 2 or more passes. If I have to do a double layer of vinyl, like reflective on any kind of vinyl base, that will usually take 3 or 4 passes. If it's an intricate detailed graphic or small text, then I slow the machine down. I cannot speak for anyone else, but when I start getting perforated type cuts, I take a look at my blade holder - to make sure it's clean, because itty bitty bits of vinyl will work its way up the in the small blade holder hole (which completely boggles my mind), and I also take a very good look at the cutting strip. I will shamefully admit needing to change the cutting strip on my LP several times because I wasn't paying attention to when my origin was and the blade and carriage just ran off the vinyl and started to cut in the strip, which isn't as self-healing as I would like it to me. You didn't state how old/new your machine was, but you can also check the blade tip, or maybe just replace the blade all together. I recommend CleanCut Blade(s), and a 60-degree blade to add to your machine accessories. Good luck, keep us posted.
  22. All you have to do is put the word passes in the search bar upper right corner. Click options Scroll thru all the results like I just did, Pages and pages of topics, that we have told the OP to use 2 or more passes for what ever they were cutting. http://forum.uscutter.com/index.php?/search/&q=passes
  23. Rowdydawg

    Not getting a complete cut thru with CE6000

    I actually had a bad blade. I returned it and did what @MZ SKEETER suggested and it’s cutting great now. I’ve been able to cut .5mil matte Mylar with the deep-cut blade for a Silhouette Cameo. I can also cut .7mil with 2 passes
  24. kmorenor

    Trouble with my us cutter mh 871

    Hey man, thank you for answering. Are you sure you have the blade holder inside the clamp? Yes it is. Is the carriage head wheels firmly down in the rail? Yes, I double checked. As a matter of fact I just replaced the carriage, but the problem persists. Is the blade holder going up and down? Yes, i see it going up and down. But when it goes down, i notice it lacks strength. How did you set your blade depth? Manually. Before it malfunctioned, i use to have less than 1 mm out of blade. Now I need up to 3 mm to cut just heat transfer vinyl, that's the only material it cuts. Is this a new cutter? No, it's been working for 5 years, but other than that, it's perfect. What do you mean, just leaves the mark? It means the blade leaves the trail where it passes, but doesn't go trough the vinyl. Have you checked that you haven't broken the blade tip off? I have tried with several brand new blades. It started randomly, just one day I needed to cut htv, but it wouldn't go through with my normal settings, you know, I used to work with medium speed and about 120-90 g in force. Now, I have to set it at maximum. Can you see the marks it leaves in the sketch. And if I pull it up just a little bit, it doesn't touch the paper. Will send videos. Thanks.
  25. kmorenor

    Trouble with my us cutter mh 871

    Hey man, thanks for answering, but, no, not the case. In fact, I have no trouble with heat transfer vinyl, because it´s softer than vinyl. I've been working with that cutter for over 5 years. It's in perfect condition. Just started to lose strength when it comes to harder materials. That's It. It would go over the design and hit the vinyl with the blade, but does not go deeper, and just leaves the trail where the blade passes. I have tried with different speeds and force, but nothing. When I'm sketching, the pen marks the way of the carriage. If I put it a bit up, it doesn't touch the paper, if I put it a little bit down, it cuts/writes all along the way of the carriage. Today, I have to let 2 or 3mm of blade to cut htv, and all of the strength, which as you know, 600g is a lot for a well functional cutting machine. In the picture you can see that I have more than enough blade out, but it barely cuts. By the way, the blade is brand new.