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Found 331 results

  1. Wildgoose

    titan 2 cutting issues

    If you are prefeeding and it will run straight on the way out but not stay straight on the way back, all this while no blade touching then you have a tracking issue for sure. They usually don't recommend messing with the tension on the pinch rollers but possibly one got messed with or has become weak. We have seen new owners immediately start cranking on the pinch roller springs and get all sorts of wonky. If you can get it running true in and out without a blade then adjust your blade appropriately and it starts dragging the vinyl out of track then you could have weak pinch rollers. (not common) Most of the time we see set up being wrong and too much force being applied which causes bunching and off-track. A remedy can be as simple as a high quality Clean Cut blade that uses less force to cut with. Cutting stencil though is probably rough and tough with lots of pressure. I make a couple passes if I cut stencil so I don't abuse my machine but mine has great tracking and will stay in the same grove.
  2. I do two passes and I’m cutting through laminated Calendared vinyl. Vinyl is 11mil and laminate it 3 mil. 2 contour cuts and they pop out nice and clean. Sometimes you have to play with pressure to fine tune it.
  3. All you have to do is put the word passes in the search bar upper right corner. Click options Scroll thru all the results like I just did, Pages and pages of topics, that we have told the OP to use 2 or more passes for what ever they were cutting.
  4. ShaneGreen


    Definitely get you a "CleanCut" blade. It cuts reflective so much better. Slow down as slow as it can go and you may still have to do 2 passes. I have a LP II and have spent days testing and retesting reflective. I've finally settled on: - a 60 degree CleanCut blade, - 450g of force. "Force" seems to be pretty relative and varies from machine to machine. I cut 651 at 125g but I've seen people say they use anywhere from 50 to 200. But mine needs roughly 3 1/2 times the force to cut reflective. - a speed of 100. That's the slowest mine will go. - two passes. It will cut in one pass the majority of the time, but I cut larger decals and when it doesn't complete the cut I'm wasting a lot of time and money. - weed immediately. Reflective seems to self-heal a lot quicker than 651. - be careful of fine details. Things like the dot on the letter "i" may cause you problems staying stuck to the backing paper. - Test, test and test some more.
  5. It has been posted many,many times on here about making multiple passes. It's not just magnet material. It's sticky flock. glitter HTV material, carbon fiber, reflective and many other thick materials. According to the UScutter buying guide, your not even supposed to cut high intensity reflective that is over 23 mil, but people do it and do it with 2 or more passes. But their taking that chance of tearing up their machine doing it. Here is the buying guide. You don't see magnet on the buying guide.
  6. I don't understand what you're saying? I asked a question asking how the multiple passes physically works? If the blade is either fully down or fully up, how exactly does multiple passes work? If the blade advances let's say 200 microns down each pass, this would be understandable to me as it's taking less of a 'bite' of the material per pass and is how other types of machines with a Z axis work. (CNC background) Sorry if I sounded confusing
  7. How does multiple passes work exactly? Does the solenoid somehow increase the depth on each subsequent pass? Otherwise, I don't understand how this works. I will gladly try multiple passes if you can explain how the feature works. The magnet material is loaded into the plotter with the 3M kraft paper (adhesive liner) facing up due to the way the magnet material is rolled.
  8. Wildgoose

    cutting mylar

    5 MM is something like 200 mil. I doubt it's THAT thick. More likely 5 or 6 mil which is .005 or .006 inches (around 0.15 mm) If it's 5 mm you aren't going to be cutting it with a regular cutter. Assuming it's not too thick to cut through. Stick it to your mew mat and start some test cuts. You may find that two or even three passes is necessary. I have some stuff I had to do two passes or one nearly maxed out pass and I liked the two passes better because it wasn't dragging so hard on the plastic which caused more weird deflection during the cut. It's a PIA to figure out what pressure to use for a two pass cut and I just dedicated a scrap to mess with and kept slowly increasing the pressure until I got it where I liked it. With a cutting mat you don't have to worry about cutting through.
  9. Ok, this was a really weird problem yesterday that I mentioned in another thread, but wanted to open this topic and see if anyone had an idea. Vinyl Master Pro on Win10 and Laser Point II. So I'm cutting a sign yesterday out of reflective and don't want to waste the expensive material so I fill the rest of the width with some clipart piece. There will be 4 different colors of vinyl used for the two jobs so I use "Send To Cutfile". In VM a "cutfile" is essentially a new image with a layer/page for each color of vinyl. This allows you to run a bunch of different images as one job for each color. I've used it a ton of times with no problem...until yesterday. The first issue is that within a cutfile there is a command, "cut this page." The command works fine, but doesn't give you access to the "Send To Cutter" screen, so you can't do multiple passes. I've got to run two passes to insure the reflective cuts all the way. Since "Cut This Page" won't do multiple passes you have to ignore that included feature and use the "Send To Cutter" at the top of the page. I'm wondering if this is causing part of the problem. The big issue happened when I started cutting. Everything is running along fine, doing two passes, until I get to the registration marks I'd added to the clipart. It cut each registration mark 8 times (or 4 times with 2 passes each, maybe)! Cut anything 8 times and you're going to have trouble. The registration marks lifted from the page and stuck to the blade holder to be drug around the image. The blade finally cut through the backing paper in places. - VM registration marks are a 5 piece image: 4 triangles and an octagon center. But it cut them out as two opposing triangles and then the remaining two and the octagon were one piece. Very weird. - VM states that registration marks are created once, but in a special color, rather than once per color/layer. Then when sent to the cutter, that special color is cut by default. That way you can create your own registration marks. - It did this on all three colors that had the clipart. - I verified, twice, that there were no copies of the mark hiding behind the other. - The clipart cut fine by itself, only cutting the registration marks once. I then created a new cutfile with just the clipart and it was fine. I added registration marks to another image and set it to 2 passes and it worked fine. So now I can't reproduce the problem, but it happened 3 times yesterday. This blade isn't going to hold up long if it does this again. Any ideas?
  10. Hello I have a titan 3 vinyl cutter, i printed some text on a HP Latex 365 i did the contour cut option, everything printed well with registration marks. When i put it in my cutter and give the command to start it does not red the markings just passes on top and on the screen it says marks not detected, even if it detects the line one time when it goes for the second registration it misses it. Can someone tell me what i can do?
  11. haumana


    As weird as this sounds - sometimes I need the reflective to be temporary. If anyone has tried to peel off reflective, then they should know that it comes off in small pieces and is a total pain to remove. So when a temporary application is needed, I will often pre-layer the reflective on some 651 (whatever color I have the most inventory in), and then run it through the cutter, doing two passes. The end result is a pretty thick decal, but removing it is a breeze. Ditto on the Clean Cut Blade!
  12. Less force means I need more passes, correct? Doesn't look like the gs-24 plays nicely with macOS due to it requiring an Adobe Illustrator plugin.
  13. You may have had better luck, if you went with the Graphtec FC unit. The Graphtecs are just better, heavy duty cutters. That is what they are built for. There used to be a guy on here years back that cut plastic with his, making several passes. I own 2 of these FC cutters, and they are tanks. I have never tried to cut thicker materials, as that is not my niche' My niche' is very large long vinyl graphics. The cutters also have different positions that you can put the pinch rollers at to hold the material. You can still find good deals on the used Graphtec FC cutters. You just have to have the money and grab it.
  14. Any of you guys who run the lasers think you could cut with a laser? To klcjr - Magnets as mentioned are really hard to cut and hard on a fine tuned machine. Getting your cutter to cut accurately would be the very first thing you would need to do and you would want to start out by cutting some cheap sign vinyl which it's actually designed to cut. IF it's cutting regular vinyl at regular pressures ok but not the magnet then you will have an answer about whether your cutter has a problem or if it's related to the 30 mil issue. Assuming that it ALSO cuts out of dimensions then you will need to calibrate your cutter. Each cutting program goes about it a little different but they pretty much all have a way. If it's cutting sign vinyl at the correct size but not the magnet then you are probably not going to have success. The heavy magnetic material is likely more weight than your pinch rollers can keep hold of properly especially if you are dragging a knife blade through it. I have cut a few, and I stress FEW, like two times with my Summa. I did three passes at a regular pressure and it did ok. You also have a whole other part of the equation that you are probably not considering. You can't cut clear through any material without having some sort of carrier sheet. Vinyl and Heat Transfer Vinyl come on a carrier sheet. I seriously doubt your magnet does. I recommend if you keep trying and get it to cut satisfactory that you should leave just a little bit so the magnet is still one piece and then you can break it free. That's what I did on the couple that I cut. This will work for an occasional project but mass production is probably not all that viable. The big factories use a true die cutter and stamp cut them out I think. Very mass production.
  15. I did actually; I played with the blade depth, downforce, tried three and four passes, and tried cutting the magnet with the wax paper liner side facing down. No dice. Calibration is inconsistent.
  16. So, did you ever try the multiples passes?
  17. My apologies if it sounded like I wasn't taking advice or haven't tried to search before posting. I am definitely going to try multiple passes! As a machine designer, I was merely curious how the plotter actually advances the depth of the blade on each pass. From my prior knowledge, I think this can only be accomplished with a leadscrew and motor.
  18. It cuts the same design 2 or 3 times more, just like it did the 1st time. you choose the number of passes in your cutting software. Each pass will cut deeper. But like stated above. I would never run 30 mil magnet thru my Graphtec and I have a heavy duty FC unit. Good luck with your project.
  19. I still don't understand what 'multiple passes' means if the bladeholder solenoid is either fully up or fully down. The pinch rollers are also fully covering the material, cut and not-cut. I'm also not fully cutting through the material either.
  20. When there's a heavy drag, tracking gets to be more tricky. If i have to do layers - like reflective on vinyl because I want to be able to peel it the reflective off easily, I always do multiple passes - the force is lighter so there's less drag on the material when it's moving, less chance for the tracking to go askew. And do you have rollers on the part that's being cut, as well as the 'outside material' because once there is definitive cut through your material, only the part that being pinched by roller will want to jog back and forth, there by adding to drag. If you were trying to do with paper, the paper would bunch. That's why machines like the Cricut need to have 'carrier' sheets that have a light adhesive - it keeps everything moving as a single piece, even though it's cut so stuff doesn't bunch or get caught. You're basically cutting something that's 12x thicker than 651 vinyl, which is done in a single pass. I wouldn't even attempt to do a 30mil anything in a single pass.
  21. trying to cut the very thick material in one pass causes more drag than if done in multiple passes - that causes slippage. I too never subjected any of my plotters to cutting 30 mil magnets - for rectangles I used straight edge and a corner rounding tool.
  22. I am not understanding how the amount of passes would correct the dimensions and the non square cuts that I am trying to solve? Can you enlighten me? Thank you so much for helping!
  23. I have never cut magnet, but I have read that most people who cut thick materials are cutting with 2-3 passes. Are you doing that? Or just trying to cut with 1 deep pass?
  24. Hello, I have been cutting vinyl and HTV with no problem but then here comes the cardstock, making look like I don't know what I'm doing. Ha. I am trying to cut out invitations and cupcake toppers with my MH-871 and I am unsure of the settings I need to use. I have a cutting mat for it and I installed the 60 degree blade, but I am having trouble getting it to cut all the way through without two passes and for some reason it is shifting just a tiny bit and making it to where there are two cuts instead of just going through the same path twice. Help please!
  25. The lower end cutters tend to drift because they just don't track as well. How are you cutting it twice? - are you sending it to the cutter twice, or do you have the design layered in your software? When I have to make multiple passes, I always layer and send it to the cutter once. I got much better results from my LP that way.