Search the Community

Showing results for 'passes'.


Didn't find what you were looking for? Try searching for:


More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Welcome to USCutter
    • Shop Online
    • Customer Support
    • Information For New Equipment Owners
    • Website and Company Feedback
  • Equipment Discussion & Support
    • Vinyl Cutters
    • Heat Presses
    • Competitor Cutter Help
    • Printers
    • Laminators
    • Engravers
  • USCutter Community
    • Community Rules & Announcements
    • Introductions
    • General discussion
    • Show your work
    • Instructional Contributions
    • T-Shirts and/ or Garments
    • Sublimation
    • Business Practices, Sales and Pricing, etc.
    • Mac Users Board
    • Pre-sale questions
    • Off Topic Section
  • Software Discussion & Support
    • VinylMaster CUT, LTR, PRO & DSR
    • Sure Cuts A Lot Pro
    • Signcut
    • SignBlazer
    • Flexi
    • Corel Draw
    • Adobe Illustrator
    • Inkscape
    • Other Software Programs
  • Material Discussion
    • Vinyl
    • Other Materials
  • Feedback Section
    • Criticism and Complaints about USCutter
    • USCutter Equipment Feedback or Suggestions
  • Graphic help and requests
    • General Help
    • Vectorizing
    • Graphic Requests
    • Fonts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 374 results

  1. haumana

    Mr

    Possibly. You'd need to use a carrier sheet, and it might take several passes. Let us know your results. Media type Self-adhesive marking film (vinyl, fluorescent, reflective) excluding high-intensity reflective film, up to 0.25 mm thickness Polyester film, up to 0.25mm thickness (unguaranteed accuracy)
  2. Have you ever looked at your teflon cutting strip to make sure it is free of scratches and gouges? That could cause many problems. If your test cut cuts at 150, then you shouldn't have to change it. Why did you switch off of Flexistarter? I still use Flexistarter for all of my cutting. I have since 2006. If it was working well, why change it? If you are cutting very small detailed work, you cut on a slow speed. NOT max. Never should you ever have to cut 2.5 mil in 2 passes.
  3. The fact that you are almost going thru the wax paper backing at higher force, is too much blade exposed. It is not possible if the blade depth is set correctly Oracal 651 should never have to use 2 passes. It is only 2.5 mil thick. With that Clean Cut blade you may also have broken the tip off, very easy to do. It takes much less force than regular blades. This is the correct way to set the blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  4. haumana

    pressure settings

    Glitter will require more force (which is a higher number), if you've done a force trial and error on any regular HTV vinyl, or any regular PSV vinyl, then you would have discovered those results. There is not specific force number that we can give to you (for any kind of vinyl) - we don't know what brand of vinyl you're using, we don't know the age of your vinyl, we don't know the condition of cutting strip, we don't know the age and condition of the blade you're using, we don't know what angle blade you're using, we don't know the design that you're cutting - whether is it's just basic shapes or big text, or if it's something intricate, etc. Yes, all of these things are factors. I know you don't want to waste your time and vinyl, however, we've guided you as best as possible and from this point forth, it really and truly is dependent on your specific machine (because same model machines can require different levels of force, but that's just how sensitive some of the parameters), so you really need to trial and error this on your own to get it dialed in. ... and there are times where it's just better to go over the design twice. Meaning, if you're not getting it to cut through just the first time around, it might require two passes. The trick to that is just get your design and do a copy and paste, but leave the second copy sitting on the original. If that's something that turns out to working better for you, then write that down. I have a running Google sheet that has my settings for which vinyl, using specific speeds, specific force, etc. It's not set in stone, because as the vinyl I have ages, those settings have to change. I don't go through inventory like a lot of other members here do, so it can get tricky, but at least it's a jumping off point and I tweak from there and update the numbers.
  5. MZ SKEETER

    pressure settings

    There are not any set in stone settings. You have to experiment with force. No 2 cutters are alike, even the same model can be different. What tutorial? Too many wrong instructions out there. You must set your blade depth correctly to the vinyl that your cutting. Do not use instructions that have to do with using a credit card or post it notes. You will need a very sharp blade to cut glitter, as it dulls blades fast. Run some test cuts. You may even need to run 2 passes, instead of 1. Directions below are for sign vinyl. You may need the blade out a little farther to cut glitter. There are not any set in stone settings, write them down. It still won't be right the next time, but hopefully close. Or keep an extra blade holder for glitter vinyl. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade. This thread answered all of your questions. The higher the number, the more force you are using.
  6. Hi all, I have a few pieces of clothing that have what appears to be a thick iron-on media, I've attached a sample. Is there a product like this that can be cut with a vinyl cutter and ironed on? I would assume it would need a couple passes I'm the cutter to cut through! Any guidance is appreciated!
  7. MZ SKEETER

    Baseline Cutter Setting Chart

    No, there are not any set in stone settings, First you must set your blade depth correctly for each of those materials, then you will know your force. It is very important to set your blade depth correctly first. Run speed slow until you learn your cutter. Slow speed also for detailed designs and text. Fast doesn't make your cutting any better. I always run slow. Each cutter can be different, even the same model. After you do each of these materials. you can write down your settings yourself. Then you will be close next time. Some thicker materials you may want to cut with 2 passes. Even the same vinyl can be a little different and require more force. It could be older and stiffer. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should barely see and feel the blade out of the blade holder. Regular sign vinyl is only 2-3 mil thick. You only cut with the very tip of the blade.
  8. Wildgoose

    Getting a clean cut for photo magnet

    Have you tried multiple lighter cuts? Like maybe 3 passes?
  9. haumana

    Cutting rubber sheet?

    If you're willing to try it on your cutter - just use a carrier mat, and you'll probably need to do multiple passes. How many does he need to get done?
  10. MZ SKEETER

    MH871 MK2

    Get yourself some good vinyl also. I see your using Greenstar, consider it practice vinyl only. Get some Oracal 651 or higher. You do not need 2 passes for sign vinyl. It is only 3 mil thick. Overcut should be your cutting software.
  11. 1clo1

    MH871 MK2

    Thanks for the reply, how do I set the overcut? I set the blade per skeeters instructions, the blade is the brand new original one that came with the cutter, only cut a few times with damaged carriage and twice with new carriages, so unless it was damaged from the bad carriage, the blade should be good. I thought of running 2 passes, would that work?
  12. haumana

    CE7000/ CE5000

    I can't speak to a CE7000, but it definitely works on my CE6000 Plus. I would say try it, because it really couldn't hurt. For material that thick, you might want to consider multiple passes.
  13. If you have some kind of programs/registry cleaner, I would try running that after uninstalling VM to remove as much traces of the program as possible. Sometimes it takes several passes. Then reboot, and reinstall. At this point, you don't have anything else to lose. How big are the files and/or graphics that you're trying to keep open? Another thing you can try is to download and install a different version of VM and see if that still happens. When is it shutting down? When you send the job to cut, or while you're actively working on the graphic? etc.
  14. Rowdydawg

    Not getting a complete cut thru with CE6000

    I actually had a bad blade. I returned it and did what @MZ SKEETER suggested and it’s cutting great now. I’ve been able to cut .5mil matte Mylar with the deep-cut blade for a Silhouette Cameo. I can also cut .7mil with 2 passes
  15. kmorenor

    Trouble with my us cutter mh 871

    Hey man, thank you for answering. Are you sure you have the blade holder inside the clamp? Yes it is. Is the carriage head wheels firmly down in the rail? Yes, I double checked. As a matter of fact I just replaced the carriage, but the problem persists. Is the blade holder going up and down? Yes, i see it going up and down. But when it goes down, i notice it lacks strength. How did you set your blade depth? Manually. Before it malfunctioned, i use to have less than 1 mm out of blade. Now I need up to 3 mm to cut just heat transfer vinyl, that's the only material it cuts. Is this a new cutter? No, it's been working for 5 years, but other than that, it's perfect. What do you mean, just leaves the mark? It means the blade leaves the trail where it passes, but doesn't go trough the vinyl. Have you checked that you haven't broken the blade tip off? I have tried with several brand new blades. It started randomly, just one day I needed to cut htv, but it wouldn't go through with my normal settings, you know, I used to work with medium speed and about 120-90 g in force. Now, I have to set it at maximum. Can you see the marks it leaves in the sketch. And if I pull it up just a little bit, it doesn't touch the paper. Will send videos. Thanks.
  16. kmorenor

    Trouble with my us cutter mh 871

    Hey man, thanks for answering, but, no, not the case. In fact, I have no trouble with heat transfer vinyl, because it´s softer than vinyl. I've been working with that cutter for over 5 years. It's in perfect condition. Just started to lose strength when it comes to harder materials. That's It. It would go over the design and hit the vinyl with the blade, but does not go deeper, and just leaves the trail where the blade passes. I have tried with different speeds and force, but nothing. When I'm sketching, the pen marks the way of the carriage. If I put it a bit up, it doesn't touch the paper, if I put it a little bit down, it cuts/writes all along the way of the carriage. Today, I have to let 2 or 3mm of blade to cut htv, and all of the strength, which as you know, 600g is a lot for a well functional cutting machine. In the picture you can see that I have more than enough blade out, but it barely cuts. By the way, the blade is brand new.
  17. Wildgoose

    Large cuts are out of alignment

    You have something else going on also. Probably a white colored object in there messing with things. In some cases your cutter will make additional passes. The chunk taken out of the smaller line shown in this screenshot should not be happening. Check your file or cut by color (or perhaps you have not divided the two parts of the red) something not right because it's not the same as the other one.
  18. Pixelmaster

    Cutter scores everywhere

    After adjusting the screws by backing them out of the top of the solenoid the "gritty" feeling was still there but my cuts improved dramatically and I thought all was good but no... after making two good passes the third, fourth and fifth time it is now failing to cut some of the objects in the design and also dragging the cutter head. I tried to tweak the screws but there is no further improvement. The adjustment you suggested helped a lot but the cutter still does not work properly and it is totally unreliable. This is a faulty unit and I will need to resolve this with US Cutter on Monday. I'm hoping that they will send me a completely new cutter/carriage unit (if it is something that I can replace on my own). I expect that they will make this right after all of the effort I've put into this so far on my own (and with your help here in this forum). Thanks again for everyone's input and assistance!
  19. 4mil = 0.1016mm If you could try a couple of passes to cut all the way through it.
  20. So far, the machine is working flawlessly. I've been using my Titan 2 28" for a few days, and I'm spitting out designs with so many different decals, at an alarming rate. I've got a great grasp for cutting speed and pressure, and etc. Now I'm wondering, if it's something I've overlooked with regard to removal of the vinyl from the roll after a job is finished? I was thinking about maybe doing multiple passes with a horizontal line across the vinyl that ends up scoring the backing? Is this just something that isn't done? Best to leave well enough alone and manually cut after project completion? Thanks in advance. I did do some re(search)ing but didn't really find a whole lot on the topic. I'm looking to make it a somewhat more automated process, for instance a batch of jobs to cut, separate vinyl, and move to the next job without interaction once I have some queued up.
  21. Wildgoose

    Font is cutting three times..

    More likely you have multiple exact copies stacked on top of one another. Or you have some setting selected to make multiple passes. If you file is not something copyright protected you can post it and we can take a look. You may be able to find it by selecting your work and ungrouping it (perhaps more than one time) and then unselect by clicking off in a blank spot or on another object and then select it again and drag the object to a new location. The lower elements (if they exist) should remain there. You can sometimes spot these in your cut dialog box if they happen to be a different color or have no assigned color.
  22. Sir Naggedalot

    Minimum amount of movement

    I agree that it would be cleaner to type rather than vectorise ,but I wonted it to be the exact format that we have been using in our local group and I was only supplied a jpeg. I've had this issue with .svg files that have only been composed using text and the real issue comes when Ive tried cutting reverse graffiti stencils out of window film as the wide movement ranges cause some of the cuts to lift, which then fouls the blade holder as it makes its numerous passes. I used to use sign blazer,this had a option to limit the carriage movement and materiel movement. Maybe I'll have to dig it out and use this for difficult to cut materials. Thanks everyone for all your time and help,its very much appreciated. Onwards and upwards,fellow beings!
  23. I've definitely got the right blade depth. I swear I've read you post this same thing a hundred times throughout this forum, I've tripple checked that I'm at the right depth, I'm not scoring the wax paper just barely marking. Its definitely working correctly. I appreciate the input though. Certain small text like I'm cutting just doesn't want to separate as easily from the weeded out parts if they're small pieces and running 2 passes has fixed it substantially. Its night and day difference. That being said, I'm open for suggestions to getting it to work with one pass. I'm running 25 speed and 22 Force. Would you suggest going higher in force?
  24. Your welcome. But you should not need 2 passes to cut 2 mil vinyl. Add a little force. First make sure you set your blade depth correctly. And only cut what you can weed at 1 time. Because you are correct, vinyl will self heal. This is correct way to set your blade depth. To start with, you should set your blade depth correctly, by taking the blade holder out of the machine, and firmly cut across a piece of scrap vinyl, you will be cutting. You should only be cutting the vinyl and barely a mark on wax paper backing, Adjust blade to get there, Then put the blade holder back in machine, and use the force of the machine to get there, same results, only cutting the vinyl and barely a mark in wax paper backing. You should just barely see and feel your blade tip out of the blade holder.
  25. What kind of vinyl are you using that you have to do 2 passes? CM 4 user manual. 4.4 Layer Tab properties shows> passes at lower left corner.